Cannondale 2001 T 2000 Older Touring Bike

4.5/5 (2 Reviews)
MSRP : $1299.99

Product Description

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Reviews 1 - 2 (2 Reviews Total)

User Reviews

Overall Rating:4
Value Rating:5
Submitted by jojothedogfacedboy a Commuter

Date Reviewed: October 18, 2001

Strengths:    I came to need a bicycle by a strange route. As a sailboat racer, I sail a lot of different kinds of boats. Recently, I started racing a small boat called a Laser, which is an Olympic class dinghy. Unlike some boats where it’s ok to be fat, the Laser demands strength and agility.

To get stronger for sailing, I began cycling to work. My brother gave me an old Cannondale M300 hardtail. I outfitted it with some bike nashbar panniers, a rack and a cheap cat eye headlight. I told myself that if I put 1,000 miles on the M300, I would have earned a better bike.

The commute to work is 22 miles each way from my home in Hull, a tiny suburb on the South Shore, to the Back Bay of Boston. The roads are what you would expect in Boston: potholes, ruts, bumps.

At first, the choices available in new bicycles were overwhelming. When I really thought about what I needed-a dependable bike to ride to and from work every day while carrying as much as 35 pounds of gear, it became apparent that a touring bike was the right choice.

After reading the reviews on this site and test riding numerous Bianchis, I bought the Cannondale t2000, model year 2001, during a fall sale. There’s a l

Weaknesses:    Be that as it may, the Cannondale is certainly not perfect and I do not want to appear to be a flak for the company.

The most infuriating aspect of the bike is that when the pedal is at the nine o’clock position, and the front wheel is turned the slightest bit, your toe hits the front wheel. Fenders make it worse. Fenders and neoprene winter booties make it worse yet. This doesn’t happen at high speeds, because it doesn’t take much to turn at high speeds, but it does happen a lot at low speeds.

The awful thing for a commuter is when you stop at a light (there must be 50 on my commute) and you try to do the jiggy bike messenger dance where you don’t unclip from the pedals while standing still, you can’t turn the wheel enough to stay upright without hitting the front wheel. This has resulted in one slow speed crash.

I suppose Cannondale knows all about this because there’s a bit in the owner’s manual that basically says your feet have no business being up there during a turn. But at very slow speeds it’s hard to coast with your feet in the twelve o’clock/six o’clock position.

Another thing you may not like about this bike: after the mechanic outfitted my bicycle wi

Bottom Line:   
Great commuter.

Expand full review >>

Favorite Ride:   50 mile weekend along south shore of boston

Price Paid:    $1200.00

Purchased At:   Belmont Wheelworks

Similar Products Used:   Bianchi touring bikes

Bike Setup:   The only upgrade I made to the t2000 is I traded in the stock pedals for Time Atac pedals. A friend

Overall Rating:5
Value Rating:4
Submitted by Lee Thé a Commuter from Palo Alto, CA, USA

Date Reviewed: July 11, 2001

Strengths:    *no frame flex ever, either on out of saddle sprints or on 40mph+ downhill runs on bad roads
*perfect frame geometry for fast downhill runs on bad roads--shallow angles, long wheelbase, clearance for big road tires, rigid frame all make for a bike that forgives your mistakes, along with wet patches, potholes etc.
* 700x35c tires and shallow frame angles make the ride less harsh than you'd expect from a bike with such a rigid frame
* nice balance of components--Cannondale didn't buy a single line gruppo for this bike; Shimano XTR for the rear shifter, which you need with an 11-34 cluster, but Shimano 105 for the far less demanding front (30-42-52), and Ultegra for the STI shifters.
* Remarkably light for a rugged touring bike--I weighed it at 25 lbs. stripped for my 23" frame--about a 4lb. penalty for the wide range drivetrain, expeditionary tires, long wheelbase, rugged frame etc.--less than my own spare tire, frankly.
* 700x35c tires, 36 spoke wheels and ample frame clearance for fenders make this an ideal year-round commute ride, which I use it for rain or shine, 8 1/2 mi./day. Despite thousands of miles over rough pavement including many weekend mountain rides I've only had one flat and no wheel problems. I've had the bike up to 44mph without trouble.
* Wide range gearing that works without a hitch--27 speeds from 23.8 gear inches to 128, all of which I use regularly. I've used it to climb long 18% grades (yes, 18%) in that low gear; downhill I don't spin out even going over 40mph. And the chain has never dropped off, front or rear. It's the most troublefree drivetrain I've ever used.
* U-brakes provide ample stopping power for long downhills.
* Three water bottle mounts--handy for long rides.
* Handsome bronze finish.

Weaknesses:    * Comes with an antique leather saddle--fortunately I was able to swap it out for a Specialized Minkow split-crotch touring saddle that works perfectly.
* Starboard STI shifter has failed twice in one year--and I haven't abused it. More Shimano's fault than Cannondale's I suspect, but it makes me wonder if the Ultegra line has the same quality as the rest of the bike.
* small dimple in the top tube visible from 10 ft. away. Doesn't seem to affect anything but I expected more from a $1,300 bike. Seems to have come from the factory that way--the paint isn't marred at all over the dimple.
*Drop portion of handlebars is shorter than on my previous Cannondale touring bike, whose handlebars I prefer.

Bottom Line:   
Most riders with the money buy the bike that matches the rider they'd like to be. I beat such riders on their Kleins and Lemonds regularly on fast downhills. The T2000 is perfect for the rider most of us with day jobs (and without Lance's God-given reflexes) are--OK but nothing special.

The reason is that it's a remarkably forgiving bike. If I bobble I won't drop it. And the wheel/tire combo is so tough it's great for riding at night, when you're likely to run into bad potholes and stuff you'd avoid in daytime.

And I don't get flats, nor do I pretzel the wheels. When I used to ride 28c's I'd get snakebite flats regularly going over railroad tracks at 20mph. And tweak the wheel at the same time. Now I can just ride. Every time I start feeling sorry for my self running these expeditionary tires I pass some guy by the side of the road pumping up his pencil-diameter tires. And I don't feel so bad...

Yes, I pay for this toughness with 4 extra pounds (vs. a racing bike in the same price bracket)--6 extra if $$$ is no object. But frankly I've got 15 extra pounds on my own body. If weight becomes critical I'll work on that. Most of the stuff riders tell me about why they got their racing bikes with triples only makes sense if you're racing for money--and big money at that.

The T2000 was designed specifically for loaded touring, which I don't do. But it's also one of the best bikes in the world for hard riding on bad, hilly roads, which I do do, and for daily commuting, which I do so much that it will pay for the bike's cost (vs driving my car) in a few more months.

Cannondale does make several cheaper versions of this bike, all with the same frame/gear range. I'd readily consider them if I couldn't affort this baby.

There are very few bikes like this on the market. Trek's 520 model steel touring bike, with bar end shifters (which are almost certainly more reliable than my STIs even if they don't shift as well). And some REI models, which I'd consider on a budget. And a couple of Bianchis. Plus all the racing bikes with triples, for those of you with the reflexes and training schedule to fully exploit such bikes. When I decided to replace my 1990 Cannondale I looked at them all and opted for another Cannondale. A friend plans to get a titanium touring bike from I believe AeroLite or something like that via mailorder for about $2,200. Maybe that'll be nicer--except I need a local dealer, and in this area dealers are reluctant to service a bike they didn't sell you (Silicon Valley wages makes it hard to hang onto bike shop employees). So a Ti solution would probably cost me $3K plus. And I've got scuba gear to buy...

Expand full review >>

Favorite Ride:   Sequoia Century

Price Paid:    $1250.00

Purchased At:   Mike's Bikes, Palo Alto, CA

Similar Products Used:   It replaces a 1990 Cannondale T600 touring bike which I still use for my backup bike. Similar except for 21 speeds vs. 27, downtube shifters vs. STI, different frame but ~ geometry, different handlebars--same overall weight, despite the two extra cogs. I rode that bike probably for 20K miles. It replaced a Peugeot PX10 which I'd modified with three chainrings (half step plus granny), and which showed me how squirrly a racing bike with a triple is compared with a true touring setup. I also rode a friend's Bianchi San Remo--their version of a touring bike, only with sidepulls and relatively skinny tires. I'd love it if all the roads I rode on were smooth, flat, and free of shrapnel. Except I thought the Campy handlebar shifters were inferior to Shimano's STI design in function. I don't know about reliability.

Bike Setup:   Three tubular steel bottle cages, NiteSun $240 light for winter riding, Specialized front blinker/light for backup, Cateye computer, Specialized rear blinker light, expandable underseat bag, Blackburn tire pump attached to water bottle cage, Kryptonite U-lock attached using Kryptonite frame mount on front fork (no other place to put it that I could figure out--works fine there), lightweight plastic fenders front/rear using single mounting point (I only use them in winter; the front produces crossover but it just flips out of the way); Performance clipless pedals (Look clones that make an annoying clicking sound--at some point I'll replace them with real Look pedals); Specialized Minkow saddle (the $40 touring model--I tried the lighter racing versions and hated them, despite the attractiveness of the light weight).

Reviews 1 - 2 (2 Reviews Total)

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