Weaknesses: Design. Needs to have a hole in front of lever to access brake fixing bolt, because 1. you shouldn't be using a ball end to tighten an aluminum bolt that tight and the lever hits the bar preventing you from using the square end and 2. you can't get an accurate torque reading at an angle. But more importantly, aluminum bolt into plastic with 8Nm torque? come on.
Plastic body with Aluminum fixing bolt and a tightening spec of 8Nm. I found the plastic shims that expand to grip the inside of the bar are too slippery, requiring tightening above 5Nm. After using sandpaper to roughen the inside of the bar and friction paste, tightening the fixing bolt enough to stop from slipping led to the bolt treads slipping in the plastic. Could not use torque wrench because of the need to use ball end of hex key. Entry to bolt is not a straight shot. Estimated torque at point of slipping is between 5 and 6 Nm. Poor design, plastic threads are part of the lever body and thus not replaceable. Plastic threads on anything with a torque expectation that high is a bad idea. Working bike mechanic 7 yrs.
I haven't connected my rear 10spd Sram 500 TT lever to the rear derailleur yet, but have connected it to my time trial aero bars. when testing I noticed that it only had 7 very audible indexed clicks on the rear lever. The front one is friction only, but the rear one is meant to be indexed for 10spd ... Read More »
I'm currently got an old Cannondale R3 frame and fork I'm doing a restoroation project on.
As ther are no dedicated down tube shifter i was wondering if anyone knows if the TT500 shifter would work?
There is a guy over on the MTBReview 29er forum who has used them with a X0 rear mech fitted to ... Read More »