FSA Platinum Pro

Price Paid:  $35.00 at ebay

Favorite Ride:
Anywhere in NZ, swiss and french Alps

Bike Setup:
Soloist Team, Dura Ace 10sp, Fulcrum Racing 3, Ritchey WCS, Flite SLR, Speedplay Zero

Summary:
Did one of you guys ever break an axle? Well I´ve done about 200 races and more than 220.000 km but it never happened to me. 1,5 km into my sunday morning ride the axle broke and the left krank was just dangling uselessly from the frame. The broken Axle showed lots of brown and black stains so FSA either used cheap steel or they were unable to keep it clean while producing it. I hope this is a one off manufacturing error as I strongly believe that axles schould not break no matter how old they are. Mine broke after approx. 12.000 km. The bearings were still fine though!

Strengths:
smooth and silent, easy to instal

Weaknesses:
The middle of the axle ;o)

Price Paid:  $0.00 at a local talent

Favorite Ride:
sunny day in the mountain

Summary:
First series was not that good I guess..
Bought a new one and there were a bearing more (4 now) and the gold color (ti nitride?) were gone from the axle.
Think the seals are better now tho.
ISIS has big axle and same shell size in the frame = small bearings.
Not that optimal solution really.

Strengths:
Easy to install, same tool as shimano octalink. Prefer the FSA tool anyway.

Weaknesses:
My first wore out after 4000km.
Alu bolt in the crank-axle? Dont think so!

Price Paid:  $40.00 at Ebay

Favorite Ride:
Massachusetts coastline

Bike Setup:
Dean Torreys ti frame, Alpha Q CX fork,
SRAM/Avid components, Titec bar/stem, Thomson post, Terry saddle

Summary:
Of itself, the bb does everything it's supposed to do well. No problem installing it in the frame. In use you don't know it's there and that says a lot.

Strengths:
functions well -- smooth, quiet, solid, nicely finished

Weaknesses:
Installation of companion FSA ISIS crank leaves much to be desired. The crankarms are installed (basically, force-fit into place) by using steel screws. Then, once the crankarms are in the proper location, you remove the steel screw and substitute aluminim replacements (a weight-saving measure) torqued within a specific range. According to FSA, when tightening the original steel screws, you may have to use MORE torque than what the aluminum screws require. I found this so, that the force fit was so tight that it took nearly all my strength to run the crankarm down. In the end, the steel screw stripped before the drive side crankarm reached 'home'. It got to within about .020" so I had to leave it there but that seems to be close enough as I've had no problems.