Description The K-Force is a marvel because it goes where Shimano fears to tread: Its arms and spider use monocoque carbon fiber construction to keep weight to a minimum and even though it's made from carbon, you...
Summary: Well I am not sure why everyone is rating this crankset so low. I replaced the stock crankset on my 2009 Specialized Allez Elite w/ this crankset and MegaExo Carbon BB. And all I gotta say is it is uber-quiet and effcient and stiff. I have only about 400 miles on it. My father over 3000 w/ his S-Works Roubaix..no issues.
I am no light weight either....190 lbs 5'6...down to 182 now..thank you! Bench over 290lbs and squat over 400...and bet can out sprint many on short stits...ok I can dream ;)
Strengths: Mega cool looks
Light
Effcient
Easy to install
Quiet
Weaknesses: Uhhhhh...expensive..I guess...eBay is way to go!
Similar Products Used:
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Bike Setup: UCI Pro Tour model. Full Campy Ultra Record UT.
Summary: This product should have been recalled.
FSA admitted that there have been MANY MANY MANY failures due to manufacturing defects in the carbon bonding process.
light riders may get away with this piece of junk working...but heavier or stronger riders WILL make it fail.
BUY CAMPY Chorus or Record Ultra-Torque if you are lucky enough to have the rest of that Groupo. You will then feel the best drivetrain in the cycling world.
FSA will show you just how much better of a cyclist you could have been, if you never used their cranksets. You will be pissed at how much loss of power you experienced the entire time you used a KForce.
Strengths: looks spiffy when new.
Weaknesses: actual weight was 115gr more than FSA claimed weight. creaking. only works for sub 150 lb riders. bonding separation at pedal inserts, and on left crank arm-to-axle location. fixing bolt becomes lose during long rides (FSA's answer IN WRITING is to apply loctite...GET REAL !!). The FLEXing starts after about 500 miles. CRAPPY SHIFTING when using Campy groupo. The finish comes off easily. FSA customer service SUCKS !!! If lucky, you will experience the left crank arm fall off during hill climbs or hard acclerations. friction in the bearing system (as compared to zero friction in Campy UT designs).
Bike Setup: Orbea Mitus Frame. Dura-Ace Gruppo. FSA cranks (for the moment), Zero Degree brakeset,Zipp Wheelset.
Summary: I am going to be receiving a new frame next week. This has prompted me to think about the drive train I am going to put on it. Currently on my Orbea I am using the FSA KForce Carbon Crank. And LIKE ALL THE OTHERS THE LEFT CRANK ARM CAME LOOSE ON MY FIRST RIDE TWO YEARS AGO!!!!! In fairness to FSA they were courteous when I called them and sent me a new crankarm and some glue to help fix the problem. It worked. For a while. Then they sent more glue and suggested I use removeable lock-tite as well as the glue. I tried it last year and thank god it has held. My dilemma is that the thought of removing the cranks again, cleaning off the old glue, (I'm not sure I have any more glue left over from the last fix) so I may have to contact Fsa to get more glue, regluing, etc. etc. is too overwhelming. If it fails I may light the cranks on fire. Now you can't even get anyone on the phone at FSA like you did when they first opened, you have to e-mail them. That's probably because they are getting so many complaints. Also I want to be clear that I followed the installation instructions to the letter and used a torque wrench to get it just right. I am 53 years old and I have a SOLUTION to the FSA problem. When I started riding 28 years ago the left crank arm bolt threaded in COUNTER-CLOCKWISE! So you were constantly pedaling in the same direction as the bolt was and it would never come loose. I don't know when or what genius engineer changed that but whoever did should be beaten to death with an FSA crankset. Rather than the glue they could have also engineered a barrel with threads on the outside that go in clockwise to the crank with permanent locktite and threads on the inside with reverse threading and a reverse threaded bolt to go with it. But NOOOOOO they had to send glue for gods sake. I love the looks of the cranks and the light weight but enough is enough. I am putting my older Dura-Ace cranks on my new bike. I will sacrifice the weight for peace of mind and reliability. I'll make up for the extra weight by going on a diet and losing a few pounds. Do not buy FSA. They stink! One last thing I do own an FSA K-Wing handlebar and I love it. Maybe crank-sets are not their forte.
Strengths: Look very very sharp. Light weight
Weaknesses: Unreliable. Ridiculous suggestions on their part to fix the problems. Their design engineers are buffoons.
Summary: Well, just as a followup to all the bad ink, I've ridden my KForce crankset for more than 2 years and I have a good 10000 miles on them. It would be more, but this isn't my only bike. Other than the annoying creak that seems to be inherent in these I have not had any real problems at all. Would I buy FSA cranks again? I'd say 75/25 probably yeah if I could be sure they wouldn't sound like an old floorboard in a haunted house when I jump out of the saddle and really get on them. All that said, I'm a fairly light rider at 148 pounds so maybe a lot of the problems I've been reading about are from heavier pedalers.
Strengths: Definitely right up there with the high marks in the cool look factor. Lots of miles on mine and shift and run well. Lightweight and good value.
Weaknesses: AGH! THAT CREAKING!
Similar Products Used: Record...is there anything else? ;)
Summary: I have a question. Where does the wavy washer go? When the left crank bolt is tightened the crankset gets harder to turn. does anyone reading this know the torque on the crank bolt and bearing cups. 52/38.
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