Identical in design to the Zero Ti, except for the fact that the spindle is made from Stainless Steel instead of Titanium. This adds a total 42g to a pair of Zero Stainless -- meaning it weighs in at 206g/pr. Like the Ti, the Zero Stainless allows you to choose either a fixed position or up to 15 degrees of float. Zero pedals maintain the traditional feel of a fixed system while incorporating all the well-known advantages of Speedplay X Pedal Systems. Dual-sided Zero pedals offer light weight, easy engagement and disengagement, a low 11.5mm stack height and superior cornering clearance. The engagement mechanism does not rely on spring tension for retention, so you don't have to crank down a tension adjuster just to prevent inadvertent release. Best of all, you can choose either a fixed position or a microadjustable 15 degrees of float.The Zero Stainless has an amazing cornering clearance of 37 degrees. Available in numerous colors and they come with cleats (and mounting hardware) compatible with virtually every road shoe in the marketplace.Please Note: Due to manufacturer restrictions, we are unable to ship Speedplay products outside the United States.
Strengths: Light, ease of maintenance, clearance, 2 sided entry, looks great, no look to clip in a great plus when in traffic, stainless spindle is lighter and after a while it wont loose the finish like the chrome-moly set.
Weaknesses: First few weeks of entry and clipping off is difficult but found a solution..
I have been using Shimano Ultegra for a few months and they are good but I still have issues clipping in since its a one side. I researched these and found great reviews. At first hard time to clip in and out. Went back and did some more research and purchased their Teflon lubricant and worked better. Decided to take apart and remove all the factory grease from the cleat area. Used 2000 wet sand paper to smooth the spring with only 3 passes per section. I then lubed with the Teflon lube instead of grease and wow now they are perfect. Hope it helps
Did notice a few units at the LBS that has some bearing noise so if you buy them make sure you spin the pedals before you buy them. Don't want to start off with a bad bearing.
Strengths: I have been riding for about 8 months now and was able to install these pedals/cleats in about 25 minutes. Getting in/out of the pedals is easy to learn and I havent had any problems with them at all.
Weaknesses: I managed to get mine adjusted just right the very first time. But, these pedals are SO adjustable (in order to fit any riders foot) that I wouldnt be surprised if it took some others a little while to get them fitted. So Im saying their "customizability" may be a weakness, but a good one.
Strengths: the strenghts are the same as for all Speedplay...dual-sided entry, float, clearance
Weaknesses: Hard to clip into, hard to get out of, and the screws fall out, leaving your cleat and pedal connected so you can't clip out.
I have been riding SP Frogs since 2000 and SP X's since 2005 and I have NEVER had a problem with either of them. Easy in, easy out, never lost any components, the Frogs shed mud while on the MTB trails. From day one, I had problems with my SP Zeros. First, I had to use all my might to get locked into my pedal (and yes, my screws were just a tad under torqued.) Once I got where I could clip in, I almost couldn't clip out. Then on ride #2 (2 hours first ride, first hour into ride #2) I went to clip out, and two of my screws had fallen out which permanently attached the cleat to the pedal. Good thing the screws didn't fall out on the other side, too, so I was lucky enough to clip out. Seriously, WHY would a manufacturer make a cleat, then tell you not to tighten the screws all the way if you want to clip in? Buying some X's today. Would have went for the new Lights, but from looking at the photo, the spring system is the same as the Zeros. BTW...I am a female and weigh about 138. My legs force is pretty strong.
Bike Setup: Trek Speed Concept...also, Schwinn Mesa GSX (Don't laugh, it the best bike ever) and a Trek 2200.
a Recreational Rider
Date Reviewed: February 21, 2012
Strengths: Simplicity and ease of entry.
Weaknesses: cleat installation critical for snapping in and out.
One can never have enough bikes I sometimes say. So, being true to this statement I built up another bike. The last component to choose was the pedals. Whatever pedal system I chose I’d have to get a pair for the new bike and for the other bike. The current bike I ride has Speedplay X/1 pedals. These have worked well for me since I first got the bike about 11 years ago.
I have always been happy with the Speedplay pedals, but thought the X/1’s had a little too much float with a total of 25 degrees. I thought I’d give the Zero’s a try being they have a smaller total degree of float of 15 degrees, which can be adjusted. Unlike other clipless pedals systems, the Zero’s float adjustment in done on the cleats instead of the pedal mechanism.
I purchase just one pair for the time being to see of I’d like the new model and also to defer the payment of two sets of pedals at once. The instruction manual can look a little intimidating, but the actual set up of the cleats is pretty straightforward.
Aside from the pedals, the whole package includes the cleats and all the necessary hardware to adapt the pedals to any road shoes that utilizes a 3- hole system. I was mounting the cleats to Shimano R162 road shoes. The cleat hardware package includes plastic shims which go under the base platform which bolts onto the shoe bottom. The purpose of the shims is to take up any clearance so the base platform conforms to the curvature of the shoe. Ideally, the bottom of the platform should be as flat as possible when tightened with the supplied screws. These screws come in two sets of 3 screws. The black screws are shorter and are to be used in case the silver ones are too long and protrude beyond the sole and into the shoe.
Once the base platform is secured to the shoe, the cleat spring assembly can be attached to the base platform using the four 4x11 screws. You’ll notice these screws come partially coated with a thread locker. This is because it is critical these screws are not over tightened. The tightening instructions of these four 4x11 screws are so critical it is written in bold face print in the instructions manual. The manual contains exact torques measurements of these screws. If you don’t have a torque wrench handy, it instructs you to tighten the screws until a “noticeable detent resistance is felt” and then going no more than ¼ turn or 90 degrees after reaching that point.
I must’ve gone too far on my right cleat. On the left cleat I think I got lucky. Although it was initially tough to snap onto the pedal, I eventually snapped in and after several cycles of snapping in and snapping out, the left side began to get easier. It wasn’t the same for the right side. I had the hardest time snapping onto the right pedal. I tried lubing and uninstalled and installed the right cleat several times and still could not snap onto the right pedal. And the couple of times I was able to get onto right pedal, I couldn’t get out without great difficulty. It was a sure recipe for an embarrassing moment at an intersection full of cars and falling over because of not being able to snap out.
The next day I took the pedals to my LBS where I purchased them and spoke to Chris. I’m not sure what he did different, but he wound up tweaking the four 4x11 screws and then I tried getting in and out of the pedals while the bike was set on their trainer. After a couple more attempts at tweaking the screws I was able to snap onto the right pedal although it was still tough. However, it did seem to work itself in and things got easier. I also found that by putting more pressure on the outside of my foot I was able to snap onto the pedal better. I think it was a matter of having the right amount of torque on the screws, letting the cleat springs break in and developing a feel for the best way of snapping in.
Now that the cleats were set correctly, I went for a ride. The pedals were mounted on the current bike, as the new Ti bike still needed a few adjustments. The ride on that bike will probably be material for a later review. Maybe the old Speedplay X/1 pedals that I had for so long were well used, even though I’ve renewed the cleats, but the Zeros seemed to be so much more efficient. They not only felt more secure but it seemed to make my pedal strokes more effective. I think this is a result of the Zeros having less float than the X/1 s. With less float I feel like my feet are no longer flopping all over the place. 15 degrees of float is still plenty of movement to prevent any knee issues. Releasing and snapping out of the pedal still require a more conscious effort, but then again, I’ve been using the same pedals for 11 years and snapping out of them was almost effortless.
After all these years using the Speedplay system of pedals, I am still a believer. I like the simplicity, lightweight and ease of entry. The double- sided pedal makes it intuitive to just step onto the pedals and go. And don’t we just want to go?!
Weaknesses: Practice the wide, heel kickout to disengage.
Best road pedal for me. Float easy on knees. Low stack height. solid lockup. "Somewhat" easy dis-engage. (Seems to take a little practice each spring.) Easy setup and maintenance. -- Don't understand reviewer's comments about maintenance. Grease injection port. I spray a shot of dry teflon lube on cleats and pedals before each ride. No worries. I have the cafe covers for short walking. Will buy again if/when necessary.
for about US$ 155.
You don't often see them at this price, they are usually sold at full MSRP ($200).
[URL="http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-track-bike/Speedplay-PEDALS-ROAD-Speedplay-Zero-Stainless-Pedals/SPEEPEDA085"]Speedplay Zero Stainless Pedals[/URL]Read More »
Question for the speedplay users out there.
I was considering switching from shimano spd-sl to help out my knees and am really liking the speedplay zero pedals, but can't decide between the titanium or stainless steel version.
I understand that the titanium is lighter, but does that mean that ... Read More »
[*]Chrome-Moly pedal each - 105g
[*]Stainless pedal each - 103g[/LIST]Are the stainless pedals really worth a $70 price jump? Seriously 2 grams isn't that much. The site doesn't really make much distinction between the 2 sets. I wanted black anyways... black with a black spindle is pretty coo ... Read More »
Big price difference between the two. I can't tell from the Speedplay site if there are any differences between spindle materials and a miniscule weight difference. Any practical differences between the two in performance or longevity from those familiar with both?
Thanks!Read More »
Is there any reason to pay an extra 65 dollars or so for the stainless version of the speedplay zero instead of the cro-moly? Saving 4 grams of weight is not a convincing reason for me (neither are the color options). I can't find any information about performance differences, durability, etc.
... Read More »