Description Precision machined from an aluminum billet with Swiss accuracy, they are then black anodized and carefully assembled with high quality European sealed bearings. All spoke holes are round, not slotted ...
Summary: A complete waste of money. These hubs offer nothing in the form of durability. They are light and unique looking and that is exactly where it stops. I had 2 sets of these hubs fail before I got a set that lasted more than 2500 miles. The lube port is hideous. A freehub body that floats on a bushing is even more hideous. The worst part of the rear hub is the movement that is common place with this model. The freehub body can be moved by hand a good 1 to 2mm depending on the hub. How do you think that works out for precision shifting. I read once that someone asked lemond about the 217 and he laughed and said " just put carbon tape on your old record hubs"
Strengths: light and pretty and if you go by that your an idiot
Weaknesses: Just about everything possible
Similar Products Used: Dura Ace, Nuke proof, campy
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Summary: This is a review of the Zipp 217 rear hub, which is no longer being manufactured. I bought mine as new old-stock to build a deep dish race wheel using a Velocity rim; 28-spoke, laced 2x/radial.
Mine lasted about 1500 miles before the cassette body detached from the hub. This is a catastrophic failure requiring a factory rebuild. According to the Zipp website, this was caused by inadequate lubrication. I was pretty disappointed to learn this, as I was meticulous about the regular maintenance, pumping the hub with Zipp factory grease about every 300-500 miles. I should note that Zipp requires use of their special lube in this hub, which they provided me on request. Teflon Triflow is the only acceptable 'emergency' substitute.
I've built perhaps three dozen wheels over a period of 7 years using a wide variety of hubs. Like Zipp, most of the exotic aftermarket hubs require excessive maintenance, involving expensive, specialized tools and lubricants. I have decided that these boutique hubs are simply far more trouble than they're worth. The standard Shimano hubs do just as good a job with minimal headache -- a couple of cone wrenches get you to the bearings after which a small application of automotive lithium grease takes care of the rest. Once a year is all it takes.
Strengths: Lightweight.
Weaknesses: Lightness comes at the expense of reliability.
Similar Products Used: Mavic, AC, Chris King, Shimano, others I can't remember at the moment
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Summary: built to velocity clincher rims. company should send hub dimension info for build with hubs but you have to call. freehub made contact with hub and bearings of hub and freehub were rough out of the box. good service rep and response but hubs at this price should be perfect. much better bearing from local supply house. bearings are easy to service. strong hub and the straight pull is very efficient and strong. the wheel is staying very true on rough roads , front and rear. the company just needs better quality control before shipping. top dollar should deliver top quality. maybe the 2002 hubs made in the u.s. will be of higher quality
Strengths: great service reps. easy to replace bearings.
Weaknesses: poor quality bearings and incorrect tolerance of hub to freehub
Similar Products Used: mavic old and new,campy and duraci
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Bike Setup: GT ZR1000 (full 9 speed DA), Dean Ti (8 Speed DA drive train + mix of other stuff)
Summary: Don't have the bottom line but if you're thinking about getting older Zipp hubs, ask if they have any play in the freehub; I hear it's pretty common
Strengths: Light (!), aero, looks sweet, wheels are tight (other than the freehub)
Weaknesses: Rear hub required service before using them (got them used post ~1000 miles)-- freehub body was loose pretty bad; sent it to Zipp and they will repair (for a cost!)
Similar Products Used: Shimano (all levels), Mavic (best bearings, anywhere!), Spinergy, TNT, Sansin, etc.
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