Summary: These wheels came on a Felt I bought four months ago. I'm selling the bike already bt am keeping these for the Giant that replaced it. They are lighter and stiffer than the Xero's that came on the TCR and are much easier to true. Good roads don't exist here, so I'm constantly mashing potholes, cracks, and root uplifts, and riding in gravel with these wheels; abuse them as much as I possibly can and they hold up under my 175lbs. I don't get people complaining about the weight - these are much lighter than my Xero's and lighter than my friend's Bontrager Selects - granted, those are both low end wheels as well, but the R500's cost what - $170? I'd recommend these wheels to anyone in the market for a decent and cheap training wheel. I've put 1000 abusive miles on them in the past three months and they've risen to the occasion.
Strengths: Cheap, strong, cheap.
Weaknesses: Had to replace a freehub at 200 miles - easy, quick warranty. Gotta take the decals off.
Similar Products Used: Xero xsr-3, Alex something or other, Bontrager select.
Bike Setup: Cannondale optimo 3 cross frame Empella Frogglegs, Easton EA70 wheelset, ITM Volo stem/bars, sram rival drivetrain, easton ea90 post, selle italia slr saddle...maxxis raze
Summary: I have to respond to the second to last review. I love looking at online reviews and seeing people rate wheelsets based on truing. Kidding...actually it pains me. I'm a physics major in school (grad school now), and I have to point something out....wheels staying true is mostly a function of proper spoke tension. You can absolutely hammer any welded metal rim and it will stay true as long as it is well built. I've ridden these rims for training and cross (in rough conditions) for a year and given them on minor true. Ceramics will crack is hammered, and carbon will chip or crack....but....TRUE YOUR WHEELS, or have them trued by a responsible individual after you purchase them if they are stock factory wheels. The review I am hounding on....once you bend the rims a little, and THEN take them for truing, they are done....they'll never be quite right again. Stop blaming wheelsets for poor truing...it is BS. Hubs and weight a the only real issue with metal wheels. A group of high school kids built a box out of 8 oz of balsa wood and glue last year that held 1280 pounds. Proper (even) distribution of force is everything.
Strengths: These wheels are cheap, and light for their weight....good training weight. If trued correctly out of the box, they stay that way.
Weaknesses: The hubs are average. They spin ok and are easy to service, but they do have more drap than a higher end model....what to you expect at this price point. Bladed spokes are just a gimmick at this weight. These aren't racing wheels....But hey, they make people feel cool.
Similar Products Used: Mavic Cosmos....some hand built alex/sh-105 combos.
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Favorite Ride: anything long enough to help me get away from the routine
Bike Setup: 2006 CAAD8 R700 triple; thomson post; Michelin ProRace2 tires; TIME RXS pedals
Summary: Got this as part of a good deal on my first road bike I was buying for my start in road racing. The wheels are no doubt a reason why Cannondale was able to charge so little for such a great frame and overall good package. But I need new wheels for the coming race season!
I would not reccomend these wheels to anyone. First week I had these the rear wheel became grossly out of true, had to bring them into the shop I bought them from and PAY FIFTEEN DOLLARS to get them trued. Okay, I've ridden mountain bikes all my life, maybe I was too harsh. Since that first episode I've babied these wheels, i.e. standing up on the pedals when going over bad pavement, avoiding bad pavement, etc. I've had the wheel trued about four times in ~1000 miles and probably should have had it trued more often but I was sick of seeing it go to the shop and not being able to ride. I even had to have the rear wheel re-laced at a different local shop to get the wheel rolling straight again. I was told by the guy that re-laced the rear that he's heard of some people or some shops refusing to work on these wheels because they are pieces of junk. They look great, and I like the thought they put into putting the nipples on the hub flanges, but this makes it impossible to easily true the rear without taking off the cassette. I guess you do get what you pay for and I should have asked more pointed questions about the reliability of the wheelset because I love the frame and the ultegra rear but can't stand having to use these wheels. I had used my roommate's bike with some Bontrager Race lites in my first foray into road racing and he says he's owned them three years and never had to true them. I'm sure those kind of wheels would cost 200-400 dollars more though.
Bike Setup: raleigh tri-light modified w/ 105 drivetrain
Summary: broke a spoke first ride out. this is my second year on them and they have broken four freewheel side spokes on the rear in that time. you get what you pay for and i didnt pay much, but i didnt get much either.
Strengths: looks, they look very good
8-10spd compat
Weaknesses: spokes
Similar Products Used: mavic, wolber and campy rims
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