How to: Setting up an indoor trainer

Setting bike up securely in a trainer is crucial, but not complicated

Tech Trainers

aambasictrainer

Editor’s Note: This article is courtesy of the team at Art’s Cyclery. The original post can be found here.

Now that you understand the basic differences between trainer types, it’s time to get your indoor training space set-up. Watch this video to get it right.

Trainers are a very effective way to maintain fitness during the fall and winter months. If you can’t get outside because of inclement weather or limited daylight, the trainer can give you an intense workout in a short amount of time.

Setting your bike up securely in the trainer is crucial, but not complicated. Correct set-up will let you pedal hard without fear of tipping over. Of course, some trainers are more stable than others, so if you intend to really crank out the watts look for a trainer with a wide stance and a robust frame.

This is a Kurt Kinetic Road Machine 2.0, but most trainers follow a similar set up routine. First, unfold the trainer’s legs, making sure they are at full extension. Back the resistance unit out and open up the axle supports, making room in the frame for the bike’s rear wheel. The resistance roller should be not touch the tire at first.

Next, remove the skewer from your rear wheel and install the skewer that came with the trainer. This will not only save your skewer from damage, but the stock skewer will fit the axle adjuster cups securely.

Put the rear wheel of your bike into the trainer, and adjust whichever axle support does not have a quick release-style adjuster so the tire is in the center of the resistance roller. If there is a lock ring, secure it when the proper positioning is achieved. Next, slide the other side adjuster onto the quick release nut. In this case you’ll open the quick release, move the adjuster, close the quick release, and tighten the knob.

Now it’s time to put some resistance on the wheel. Tighten the rear knob until the roller contacts the tire, and then give one to three more full turns, or until your desired resistance is achieved. More resistance equals more wear on your tire, so you might want to have a trainer-specific tire or even wheel and tire if you spend a lot of time training indoors. Give your bike a good shake to make sure it’s solid in the trainer.

Finally, you’ll need to level your bike. You can stack two-by-fours under your front wheel, but a riser block will be much more stable. Most riserswill have several positions to match the rear wheel’s height. If you have a long enough level you can place it on the bike’s skewers, but judging by feel should be adequate.

Now it’s time to get on the bike and start hammering. There are many guided workout videos available that will help you achieve whatever training goals you have. Or, you can get creative and come up with your own workouts. Either way, you’ll maintain fitness and maybe even come out of winter stronger than before.

About the author: Arts Cyclery

This article was originally published on the Art's Cyclery Blog. Art's Cyclery is dedicated to offering free expert advice, how-to videos, and in-depth product reviews on ArtsCyclery.com to help riders make an educated decision when selecting cycling gear.


Related Articles


NOTE: There are two ways to comment on our articles: Facebook or Wordpress. Facebook uses your real name and can be posted on your wall while Wordpress uses our login system. Feel free to use either one.

Facebook Comments:



Wordpress Comments:

  • Aynstein says:

    This DOES NOT apply to chain driven trainers. Obviously.

    Put FRICTION TAPE on the roller of the trainer. NOT vinyl electrical tape. FRICTION TAPE. It will prevent the tire from SLIPPING on the roller. No slippage = NO wear. If you don’t know what friction tape is, ask an ELECTRICIAN.

    Put enough spring load tension on the roller arm so that there is NO SLIPPAGE when you grab the bike wheel and flywheel and try to move them against each other.. With the tape, you won’t need that much tension..

    More tension DOES NOT equal more wear. That statement is nonsensical. Wear is caused by the tire SKIDDING and SLIPPING on the roller. This not only wears rubber off of the tire, but grinds aluminum off of the roller.

    What more tension does do is increase the deformation of the tire so that the sidewall flexes more as you ride.If the deformation of the tire is not more than from putting your weight on it when you ride outdoors, don’t worry about it. It’s the skidding and sliding that wears out the tires. With the friction tape there won’t be any, and noise will be less.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

*
*