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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Shimano 105 cassette 12-27 , I think my 105 SS dérailleur can handle up to 28 and even though I know it won't make hills that much easier, I'll take every bit I can get, so....what does it take to get the 28 tooth cog? An entire new cassette or can the 27 be replaced individually with the 28?
Maybe this extra tooth and a -12 ounce wheel upgrade will make hills a little easier on my newly acquired Compact Double( 50/34) bike.
 

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Rub it............
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You will need to replace the cassette, as the 3 largest gears are riveted to a single spider.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Dang...now not so sure it's worth the $60 now...comes down to 1 tooth for $60
 

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If you feel it's important to you, you might recover some expense by selling the old one, cutting the net cost by half or so.

All in all, it's about a 3.6% difference, or 1/2 -1/3 a typical step on a mid-wide cassette. Have you checked if there's room to use a smaller chainring for the same or more low end improvement?
 

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hikertoo said:
I have a Shimano 105 cassette 12-27 , I think my 105 SS dérailleur can handle up to 28 and even though I know it won't make hills that much easier, I'll take every bit I can get, so....what does it take to get the 28 tooth cog? An entire new cassette or can the 27 be replaced individually with the 28?
Maybe this extra tooth and a -12 ounce wheel upgrade will make hills a little easier on my newly acquired Compact Double( 50/34) bike.
Remove the 16T cog (or any middle cog), get a 30T cog (you can get a 9 speed cassette at Nashbar for 27 bucks and use the 30T cog from it or get a single cog from Harry's cyclery for 14 bucks) and add it to the end; next to the 27 using the extra spacer from the middle cog you removed. Depending on the hub you have, you may have to add 1mm spacer in addition to the spacer you removed from the middle cog; make sure the spacing from the 27T cog to the new 30T cog matches the spacing of the other 9 cogs, if it's a little too tight, then add the 1mm spacer.
The 10 speed SS shimano RD will work fine with the 30T cog (that's my set up). The chain length will be fine if you have been using a 27T cassette
You can't remove the 27T 'cause it's a spider cluster with the last 3 cogs in one piece.
 

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Taking off what FBinNY said...

That move from 27 to 28 likely wouldn't yield noticeable improvement - and well, that's the whole point of doing such a move/investment. You can make out some charts on MS Excel to find that the demand of RPM's per given speed is so little in difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Good ideas, checking now

robpar said:
Remove the 16T cog (or any middle cog), get a 30T cog (you can get a 9 speed cassette at Nashbar for 27 bucks and use the 30T cog from it or get a single cog from Harry's cyclery for 14 bucks) and add it to the end; next to the 27 using the extra spacer from the middle cog you removed. Depending on the hub you have, you may have to add 1mm spacer in addition to the spacer you removed from the middle cog; make sure the spacing from the 27T cog to the new 30T cog matches the spacing of the other 9 cogs, if it's a little too tight, then add the 1mm spacer.
The 10 speed SS shimano RD will work fine with the 30T cog (that's my set up). The chain length will be fine if you have been using a 27T cassette
You can't remove the 27T 'cause it's a spider cluster with the last 3 cogs in one piece.
Went to the http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/index.html website and saw their extensive selection of custom cassettes and cogs, I've emailed them about the 30T cog.
Other then that, it's trying to find a cassette with a removable( non clustered) 30T cog.
Thanks again.
 

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Hucken The Fard Up !
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Harden the **** up
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I was with you a few years back :)

Salsa_Lover said:
Harden the **** up
But just turned 48 and am in excellent shape and muscle tone, although a little skinny at 155 lbs., I have a feeling my days of improving are not that many and I'm lucky to stay in the current shape I am ! So an extra tooth or two is not asking much......
 

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hikertoo said:
But just turned 48 and am in excellent shape and muscle tone, although a little skinny at 155 lbs., I have a feeling my days of improving are not that many and I'm lucky to stay in the current shape I am ! So an extra tooth or two is not asking much......

Same here, 53 yrs.old....although I just got back into riding 6 weeks ago, I don't see how I can eliminate the 3-4 stops I have to make on the biggest hills in my area. I think I can HTFU to get to 1-2 stops, but can NOT imagine ever getting up the biggest hills non-stop in my 12-25.

I'm going to give it 3-4 more months of training, then see where I stand before I reach out to a 12-27 :blush2:

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Do you have a Dual Compact too?

Erion929 said:
Same here, 53 yrs.old....although I just got back into riding 6 weeks ago, I don't see how I can eliminate the 3-4 stops I have to make on the biggest hills in my area. I think I can HTFU to get to 1-2 stops, but can NOT imagine ever getting up the biggest hills non-stop in my 12-25.

I'm going to give it 3-4 more months of training, then see where I stand before I reach out to a 12-27 :blush2:

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50/34?
I was used to my MTB and old road bike with triples, apparently the CompactDouble is the way to go in my area of the country ( Mid-Atlantic), although I haven't had to walk up a hill yet....sounds like you need more then that 25T
 

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hikertoo said:
50/34?
I was used to my MTB and old road bike with triples, apparently the CompactDouble is the way to go in my area of the country ( Mid-Atlantic), although I haven't had to walk up a hill yet....sounds like you need more then that 25T

Yeah, compact 50/34. I mainly just don't have the power or stamina to get up the biggest hills yet. It's still early in my fitness program...I only weigh 145 lbs., but have only been riding sportbike motorcycles the past 10 years. No real exercise :blush2:....which is where the bicycle came in.

Around my area, the biggest hills are about 1.5 miles long and pretty steep. I don't know the degree of inclination, or how to find out. I'm grinding away on the 34x25, but run out of steam at some point. I just stop, recover for 1 minute, and then resume until I'm worried about falling over while clipped in. The main trouble is clicking in and restarting mid-hill....not the easiest if cars keep zipping by. The biggest hills require me to stop 3-4 times. Thankfully, I can see improvement each week on the small/mid hills, so I'm not concerned. At least knowing I can do all but the biggest hills of the area has me enjoying the rides much more every week. I just gotta keep working hard.....err, HTFU :p

In the future, if I still can't make it up the steeps, I will likely check out the 12-27. My friend rubbed it in because he says he can grind it up that steepest hill without stopping at all....but then I found out he has a MTB with a triple, so unfair comparison maybe.

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Erion929 said:
Around my area, the biggest hills are about 1.5 miles long and pretty steep. I don't know the degree of inclination, or how to find out.
I don't know how accurate it is, but www.mapmyride.com has a elevation profile that can be turned on for routes you map on their site (using a Google maps interface). It's pretty handy for looking up elevations of rides you plan to do ahead of time.

I have a compact 50/34T crankset and a 11-25 cassette on my bike, and I'm definitely still seeing improvements (though this is only my second year of cycling, and my first summer with a new bike, actual clipless pedals, etc.). I decided it wouldn't be worth it to upgrade to a cassette with more teeth.

My "local hill" that I try to include on a ride at least once a week is probably about 2 miles long, and about 450 ft of total climbing. I use to have to stop once or twice, but this week I did it without stopping, AND without feeling like I was going to have my heart beat out of my chest. It was certainly a good feeling, and a far cry from where I was 4 months ago...
 

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At 52, it's only a matter of time before I go the compact 50/34 route. The 12-27 rear combined with the 39t front almost does not cut it for me on short climbs steeper than 15% or long climbs steeper than 10%.

Wouldn't hurt if I lost fifteen pounds, either.
 

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I wouldn't bother with 1 tooth. If you really want to make it easier, you can stick a MTB derailleur and a really wide-range cassette back there.

I'd want to look up the spacing on the SRAM PG-1070 before committing, myself, but I think it oughta work. :) Supposedly, the spacing on Shimano's 10-speed MTB cassette doesn't match their 10-speed road cassette. But that would also be something to confirm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
For now, I ended up buying a 29T Mitch sprocket/cog that I'll add on and take another smaller one out( thanks for this hint from above) and because I become obsessed with and am never satisfied, I bought a set of Shimano "Ultegra" wheels that are 14oz lighter then my current wheels,, that has to be worth at least a 1/2 tooth in real world and 1/2 tooth in my mind, so I should be fine..I have not had to walk my bike up a hill yet.
 

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Trek2.3 said:
Exact product name, please. Who did you purchase it from? URL ?
Could be wrong, but I think he's talking about Miche. They make both Shimano/SRAM- and Campy-compatible cassettes and (I think) individual cogs, often in progressions and sizes that can be hard to find elsewhere.

You can buy their stuff at lots of places online.
.
 

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hikertoo said:
Went to the http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/index.html website and saw their extensive selection of custom cassettes and cogs, I've emailed them about the 30T cog.
Other then that, it's trying to find a cassette with a removable( non clustered) 30T cog.
Thanks again.
all SRAM PG970 series (9 speed) have individual cogs; just unscrew the hex pin holding them together. I've been using these cogs to customize shimano or SRAM road cassettes for a while now...
 
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