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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Picked up my new bike today [Size S (51) 566 Rival], installed my new GP4000S tires, Keo 2 max pedals, put on my Shimano R132L Shoes, and went for a 25 mile ride around NYC: West side highway, a lap around central park, and ended in Chinatown.

The bike is smooth, I did it with my two pals who had a Tarmac Comp Double, and another with a Madone 4(?) Series. Both said my bike was smooth as butter.

The rear shifting and the braking were 100% problem free on my first ride. I had some trouble getting my front derailleur to get the chain from the small ring to the large. Dropping it from the large down to the small was no problem. Any tips on how to adjust my FD to get it to shift up to the big ring more reliably?

The handlebar (Fsa vero compact) and saddle (selle royale seta) is very comfortable. i have no problem in either the hoods or the drops. the narrow bars allow me to get into a more aero position and are fine for my arm length/shoulder width. The saddle didn't cause me any problems like the Selle Italia SLR saddle did. My ride was about 2 hours and i have no complaints. Its very comfortable. I'm sure i can afford to lose a little bit of weight in both of these items, but for the non weight-weenies reading, they're very nice.

Weight, i didn't get a chance to put on the scale at the lbs. i'll have to do it on the digital bathroom scale tomorrow. i'll get the average of 3, but i'm guessing it will be about 18lbs with pedals. Its not as light as i'd hope. Does anyone have any tips on where to drop weight first?

Are there any questions you guys would like answered about the bike? Let me know.

Update 6/13/10. Here are the long awaiting pics.

 

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Nice, congrats on the new ride!
I've got a 2009 566 Rival myself, rides pretty good.

WRT the fder - it took me a couple of tries to get mine right and I found it a bit different from shimano. I have it set so that when I'm in the small chain ring, I can just barely shift down to the second smallest cog without the chain rubbing on the fder (but it does rub in the smallest/smallest chainring/cog combo). I'm guessing you will need to shorten your cable slightly to achieve this and that will solve your shifting issue.

WRT the weight issue - if you're like me then it's not the bike that needs to loose weight :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
coming soon, someone stole my camera... ****ing new york city!

put 45 miles on the bike so far and everything is so far so good. sometimes my chain gets sucked into the front derailleur.

some thoughts:
i'm so scared i'm going to scratch the chainstays like this
i get complements and looks from every rider, and chicks, i love it.
my pedals/cleats squeak, how do i fix? My tension settings is 2-3 notches from the lowest.
 

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skyliner1004 said:
They are LOOK keo 2 max pedals with + Shimano R132 shoes

Exactly. Look for glazing on the cleat, if there is and glaze from where the pedal and cleat contact, gently scratch off the glazing on the cleat with a knife..

If this doesn't help, try trimming of the rubber gripper on the rear of the cleat with a sharp knife (not the center peice, leave that or the cleat will be slippery),

if that doesn't help still, sprinkle talc powder (or foot powder) on the cleats before you ride.

If this annoys you, use the older style cleat if you can find them (no rubber gripper, Teflon insert in the rear).

Before you do any of this check to make sure the bolt are tight in your shoes. I am also assuming you have checked that the pedal threads are greases and tight. I have heard that candle wax will help, or epoxy in extreme cases, but I have no experience with those methods. Also, I have heard of people putting a layer of felt between the shoe and cleat.

Hope this helps!


btw, sick bike, my buddy has that exact one. it rides AWESOME.
 

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I really like the look of that frame. I'm kinda curious how the bike handles on downhills with the bars so high though? This frame was designed to have a longer headtube to reduce headset spacer use. It looks like they still put a ton of spacers anyway. If you need to have the bars that high for comfort then you should flip the stem over to reduce spacer stack, then chop off what is sticking above the top (after confirming fit). Oh yeah, after you get the drivetrain all dialed in, I'd remove the plastic "dork disk" between spokes & cassette. Very nice bike otherwise. Enjoy
 

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Nice ride...

...I have Too Many Bikes and Not Enough Money this summer, but I've been kind of looking for a plush-er bike, and I'm essentially trying to decide between Look 566 and Cervelo RS. Everything I've heard about the 566 is goodness except for the weight. You can lighten up with lighter wheels, but I think the frame itself probably weighs more than I'd like.

My current summer rides are identical Titus Oseos, built up with Shimano Ultegra SL (triple), Easton Circuit wheels, GP4000S tires, FSA alloy stem, FSA Carbon Compact bars, Look CX-t pedals, Salsa Shaft seatpost, Specialized Avatar seat, Ciussi Elite bottle cages. Weighs in around 16.2 pounds, and right now, it's comfortable enough for me...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ljfran2383 said:
Feel weight reduction in the wheels most. That saddle looks heavy too.

A solid set of 1400g can be had custom built for a fair price too.
i'd love a set of handbuilt wheels. Everyone thats posting, please throw out a suggestion for a handbuilt wheelset. I need: $600 max budget, 1400g or less, can handle 160lbs in urban area, good quality builder, and where can i get it?
 

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Agree with losing weight first on a lighter set of wheels. Better and lighter wheels will make a huge difference in the ride. Maybe also lose the dinner plate plastic protector thingy? ;) Great looking bike, enjoy it and ride it like you stole it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
does that plastic plate near the cassette serve any purpose at all?

Does it matter if i take it off elegantly or can i just cut it off (destroy)?

The steerer tube will be cut in 2 weeks or so, once i feel the fit is correct for me.
 

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The plate helps protect the wheel and derailleur in the event your hanger gets bent or derailleur becomes seriously out of adjustment (so derailleur or chain doesn't get tangled in wheel). Most people remove the pie plate once they are comfortable checking their derailleur adjustment.
 
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