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CX'er
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking at this frame as a possible new bike since the gravel race scene is exploding in the Midwest where I live. I tried a steelie monster cross this year which is a nice bike but the added could of pounds over my carbon CX bike I used to use is obvious on the hillier gravel routes.

Anyone have opinions on it? Seems like it favors an endurance bike geometry but with massive tire clearance, which I can get behind as I enjoy gravel riding on my road race bike when there's under 50% gravel in a ride and it's just hardpack.

I would really be interested to know from anyone that may have test rode one. I know of one guy locally that has one but he only picked it up yesterday so it will be a few weeks before I can get some input from him.

Also, I've never had a bike with a 386evo BB, anything special about crank compatibility with those? I use GXP cranks on all of my road-type bikes since I have a stages PM, I'm assuming there's a direct adaptor of some kind like there is for PF30 frames?
 

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3T Cycling
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I'm looking at this frame as a possible new bike since the gravel race scene is exploding in the Midwest where I live. I tried a steelie monster cross this year which is a nice bike but the added could of pounds over my carbon CX bike I used to use is obvious on the hillier gravel routes.

Anyone have opinions on it? Seems like it favors an endurance bike geometry but with massive tire clearance, which I can get behind as I enjoy gravel riding on my road race bike when there's under 50% gravel in a ride and it's just hardpack.

I would really be interested to know from anyone that may have test rode one. I know of one guy locally that has one but he only picked it up yesterday so it will be a few weeks before I can get some input from him.

Also, I've never had a bike with a 386evo BB, anything special about crank compatibility with those? I use GXP cranks on all of my road-type bikes since I have a stages PM, I'm assuming there's a direct adaptor of some kind like there is for PF30 frames?
I've lots of opinions on the frame. Have about 5000km on it since the summer and have done road, CX, gravel, crit, and MTB events on it. I work for 3T however so my opinion may not carry much weight for you. I can answer the BB question objectively. Just about any crankset EXCEPT a dedicated BB30 crank with a 68mm spindle will fit in the frame. You can run GXP cranks directly with an Enduro BB or Wheels Manufacturing or Kogel, etc. but there is not enough room for the stages inboard mounted powermeter. In order to maximize tire and mud clearance, we needed to minimize the crank arm clearance so add-on meters like stages are no-go. SRM, Pioneer (drive side) Rotor inPower and 2InPower will all fit.

Where are you located? We've got demos travelling the country atm.

-SD
 

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CX'er
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Dave, we've talked some via email before as I had submitted an inquiry through 3T's website as well. I'm located in Livonia, MI if that rings a bell. Looks like we exchanged some emails shortly after I started this post.

Had to take a pass as I decided to go back to school and started grad school this month and the extra disposable income is going towards that instead of the bike fund. I'm trying to sell what I have first before adding in something new since that's what will fund further projects.

Thanks for the message and I'll be keeping an eye out for demos as I would like to consolidate my fleet and go back to what I used to do, just swap wheels/tires and call it a different genre road bike.
 

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My opinions:
1. Press fit BB is an automatic deal killer for me.
2. IMO, you should only ride / race a gravel bike you can easily afford. If you can afford to trash a $4,200 frame with impunity, more power to you.
3. Given the amount of rocks pinging off my frame on some gravel rides, I'm somewhat doubtful of the concept of a carbon gravel bike.
4. The bike is way too racy for me. 415 chainstays and a 72.5 head angle. I prefer more stability in a gravel bike. This is obviously dependent on surface you're riding on and personal preference so YMMV.

Overall, I don't get this bike. Just my opinions based on the specs. I've never ridden it, though.
 

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4. The bike is way too racy for me. 415 chainstays and a 72.5 head angle. I prefer more stability in a gravel bike. This is obviously dependent on surface you're riding on and personal preference so YMMV.
Yeah, I'd agree with that. I have been on gravel roads where that would be fine but for what most people end up doing with gravel bikes where I ride them it wouldn't be so great.
And if the roads are that good.....you don't really have a need to for a 'gravel bike' that takes massive tires IMO. A road bike with 28's would be fine.
 

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CX'er
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
2. IMO, you should only ride / race a gravel bike you can easily afford. If you can afford to trash a $4,200 frame with impunity, more power to you.
I guess my gravel roads aren't that bad because I've thought the frame was about to come apart from the chatter bumps. Wheels and tires, absolutely, but not the frame.

The problem I have with most gravel bikes as they are very lackluster when you're on the pavement and most rides and races I do are not pure peanut butter or loose stone gravel. The area will have a lot of hardpack and some even have a fair amount of pavement (all of my gravel rides will) and that's where the racier bike is nice.

I frequently ride my road bike with 28mm tires and it's often just fine. However, something with more cushion would be nice and especially a bike that's fast on pavement but can still handle gravel, and handle it well, is desirable.

I have a steel gravel bike and It's pretty lackluster but it was affordable to try it out over a CX bike. So far, a standard CX bike still offers the best for mixed riding for me but I like trying new things. The exploro is an expensive test if I can't get in on a demo day.
 

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I have a steel gravel bike and It's pretty lackluster but it was affordable to try it out over a CX bike. So far, a standard CX bike still offers the best for mixed riding for me but I like trying new things. The exploro is an expensive test if I can't get in on a demo day.
If you're willing to spend $4200 for a frame I'd suggest a custom Seven (what would cost less) would be your best bet.
They do a lot of this type of bike, know that type of riding well and of course can design in any handling you want. And Ti is great for a bike that'll take a beating.
 

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I guess my gravel roads aren't that bad because I've thought the frame was about to come apart from the chatter bumps. Wheels and tires, absolutely, but not the frame.
It's not the frame coming apart I'd worry about, it's crashing. To me, if I'm four hours into a sketchy gravel ride, the last thing I want to worry about is that I can't afford to fall and destroy my frame without my wife killing me. If I can just go out the next day and buy another one without getting yelled at, different story. For me, $4,200 is well past that threshold...

The problem I have with most gravel bikes as they are very lackluster when you're on the pavement and most rides and races I do are not pure peanut butter or loose stone gravel. The area will have a lot of hardpack and some even have a fair amount of pavement (all of my gravel rides will) and that's where the racier bike is nice.
Totally agree. As I mentioned, my opinions are dependent on surface and personal preferences. Personally, I've "raced" a 70 mile ride on hardpack and gravel on a racy single speed with 28mm slicks with no issues. As you say, you don't really need a gravel bike at all in those conditions. However, in some of the "talcum powder mixed with ping pong balls" around here, I want long stays and a slack head angle, personally.
 

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CX'er
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you're willing to spend $4200 for a frame I'd suggest a custom Seven (what would cost less) would be your best bet.
They do a lot of this type of bike, know that type of riding well and of course can design in any handling you want. And Ti is great for a bike that'll take a beating.
This is a very valid point.
 

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To me, if I'm four hours into a sketchy gravel ride, the last thing I want to worry about is that I can't afford to fall and destroy my frame without my wife killing me.
This is hilarious. Thanks for the laugh.

Being an 8 hour walk from civilization and it's getting dark, losing $4200, grizzly bears......those don't rate compared to telling the wife.

All kidding aside though you're right on. Especially considering the difference between a light carbon frame and a fairly rugged metal one really isn't that much. Maybe a pound or so certainly not enough to impact race results or enjoyment.
 

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3T Cycling
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My opinions:
1. Press fit BB is an automatic deal killer for me.
2. IMO, you should only ride / race a gravel bike you can easily afford. If you can afford to trash a $4,200 frame with impunity, more power to you.
3. Given the amount of rocks pinging off my frame on some gravel rides, I'm somewhat doubtful of the concept of a carbon gravel bike.
4. The bike is way too racy for me. 415 chainstays and a 72.5 head angle. I prefer more stability in a gravel bike. This is obviously dependent on surface you're riding on and personal preference so YMMV.

Overall, I don't get this bike. Just my opinions based on the specs. I've never ridden it, though.
Have you ridden a gravel bike with 2.0" tires on it?
 

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Saw a number of these at Barry-Roubaix. Geo numbers are interesting, kinda wonder what they would feel like. The guy who won the 62 overall did it on an Exploro in the rain on slicks so the numbers apparently work ok lol. Kinda thought the 50mm rake was odd though?

I wasn't sure how my bike was gonna handle out there when I bought it with 422mm CS, 71 HA, 68mm BB drop but I think it was stable but yet with a lively feel. I remember doing a nice two wheel slide at speed around a bend down right by a lake. Good times.

I don't mind the CS at all but a tad more stability up front might feel a lil better, but maybe going to 44cm bars will do that.
 

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CX'er
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Good on you for toughing it out for Barry. I skipped it because I'm a pansy, didn't want to replace a bunch of bearings, and decided I should be more productive with doing other things that needed to be done.
 

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Good on you for toughing it out for Barry. I skipped it because I'm a pansy, didn't want to replace a bunch of bearings, and decided I should be more productive with doing other things that needed to be done.
Oh it was good times lol.

I think my bearings are ok but drivetrain didn't sound happy, I had no brakes two thirds in so i lost a lot of brake material, and my rear brake cable/housing is binding up with grit so I have to replace it. So yeah the maintenance required is a drag and I still haven't gotten around to it.
 

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Good on you for toughing it out for Barry. I skipped it because I'm a pansy, didn't want to replace a bunch of bearings, and decided I should be more productive with doing other things that needed to be done.
This sounds familiar. I was registered but then it rained for four days straight, I heard the roads were mush and I noped out. So I sat inside, ate enchiladas and watched Netflix all weekend.
 

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I've lots of opinions on the frame. Have about 5000km on it since the summer and have done road, CX, gravel, crit, and MTB events on it. I work for 3T however so my opinion may not carry much weight for you. I can answer the BB question objectively. Just about any crankset EXCEPT a dedicated BB30 crank with a 68mm spindle will fit in the frame. You can run GXP cranks directly with an Enduro BB or Wheels Manufacturing or Kogel, etc. but there is not enough room for the stages inboard mounted powermeter. In order to maximize tire and mud clearance, we needed to minimize the crank arm clearance so add-on meters like stages are no-go. SRM, Pioneer (drive side) Rotor inPower and 2InPower will all fit.

Where are you located? We've got demos travelling the country atm.

-SD
Superdave,

I'm having a problem fitting Campy UT bottom bracket adapter and Chorus 11 50/34 crankset (old 5-arm design, 172.5mm). There is not enough clearance for the crank arm on the non-drive side.

I would say it needs at least another 1mm, maybe 2mm. I sent an email to [email protected] but thought I would post here too.
 
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