Depends on where and with what kind of people you ride and how well you've learned to spin. I have a 48T big ring on my Surly Pacer and actually came off the back of a training group hammering down a slight (perhaps 3% or so) incline because I "spun out" my Pacer. Keep in mind that's what I keep telling myself. The truth might be something else altogether.saddle tramp said:Will I always be spinning out of the 46?
If you live in relatively flat terrain, I suggest 53/42 or 53/44 ring combo with bigger cogset ratio. I never like a big spread between the big/small ring.....saddle tramp said:For the relatively flat terrain around here I'm thinking 50/38 or maybe 36 would be my preferred but I'm not seeing it out there.
Used to be done all the time in the days of 5, 6 and 7-speed rears. Racers would pick rings depending on the course. It wasn't uncommon to see someone ride a 52/50 in front on a flat course on Saturday, then put on a 52/42 or 53/39 for a hilly race on Sunday. For many years, 52/42 was the all-around standard setup. With 10 or 11 speeds in the rear now, picking rings for a race or ride isn't really needed any more.saddle tramp said:Is it uncommon to buy a new crankset and then rework the dang thing?
Curiously, if you found yourself switching back and forth between the front rings on the 50/34, what do you do with the 53/39?JimP said:I tried a 50/34 compact crank for one season and switched back to a 53/39. It seemed that I was always shifting the front back and forth between the rings. The comment about how hard is it to shift 3 cogs instead of 2 is from someone who must have never ridden with a compact crank. The normal Shimano and Campy shifters shift 3 cogs with a full stroke and you need to shift 4 cogs. That is a double stroke with the right when shifting to the big ring and the opposite is true too when you have to keep punching the lever way too many times.
I also have a 36/50 with a 11-23 cassette (Sram Red) and find this ideal for flatish rides mainly using the 50 ring, this does involve 'cross chaining' a bit but not often and only 1-2 changes on the cassette when changing 'rings.vortechcoupe said:50/36 is a good combo. shifts better then 34 and the gap is less, makes for less changing in the back, maybe 1-2 cogs when changing between the chain rings.
I agree, but I just went through a Dura Ace chain in about 1000 miles. I thought there was no way it could be the chain since it had so few miles on it. My mechanic said that it was so stretched out that it was off the chart on the chain measuring tool. I'd probably spend 90% of my time in the 50 ring if it weren't for the scolding I got about "No crosschaining!"pbayne said:My opinion is that there is no such thing as cross chaining on a double set-up. I think with a double that the whole cassette should be usable with either front ring. And most decent set-ups can be done so that there is little to no rub on the front derailleur in any of these combos. Cross chaining is more of an issue with triples, although there are reasons to do it, especially while racing off-road in the big ring.
saddle tramp said:For the relatively flat terrain around here I'm thinking 50/38 or maybe 36 would be my preferred but I'm not seeing it out there.