53/39, 52/36, and chain length

How much take-up remains with your rear der and your current setup when in small to small? If not much and this potentially just a short term need, I suppose you could avoid small to small when you use the smaller rings. Certainly a far less risky problem than a chain that is too short.

Just get an extra quick link and run 2 of them when you need a longer chain. Any other solution is iffy.

duriel said:

Just get an extra quick link and run 2 of them when you need a longer chain. Any other solution is iffy.

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I presume you mean that not shortening the chain when going to a 3T smaller ring is "iffy". How would you know that

We are talking about 1 link, or very worst case, 2 link difference, if the chain is truly in need of shortening.

The OP did not tell us anything else about his current drivetrain or how his chain was sized for his current setup. Seeing what things look like when in small to small is going to be the only way to suss that out. Chances are good that the chain will be fine. And even if not, if it's going to be a short term need, will be plenty workable by staying away from small to small. IMHO, "iffy" would be attempting to run a chain that is too short, as one mistake can eat a bunch of parts.

duriel said:

Just get an extra quick link and run 2 of them when you need a longer chain. Any other solution is iffy.

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Go buy another hat.

Sorry to be vague. It's a DA-9000 11-speed setup with 53/39 in front and 11-28 in the back. I don't remember which method I used to originally size the original chain, maybe it was the big-big way with no derailleur? I guess I'll just have to measure things out, I was hoping it might be a standard thing people do without issues all the time.

Why not just swap cranks and have a look see with the chain that's there? If it's too long take out a link or swap in a shorter chain.

easy-peasy

Shoot you know what, now I remember what I really wanted to ask here and the chain is the LESS important part... what I am really concerned about is if I can get away with the same front derailleur position for the 52 as the 53...

(edited for an early morning math error, as I was doing the math in error on 14T not 16T)

A 52/36 technically exceeds meets the 16T capacity of a Dura Ace 9000 series front der. As such, you might expect to have some rubbing in the small ring, especially if you choose to leave the der positioned slightly higher for the 53/39 crank. Ignoring the capacity issue, I'm sure shifting would not be sufficiently degraded if you left the der unadjusted for this to be a temporary solution. If it were my bike, I would be adjusting the der and cable as part of the swap over, as I see it as only a few more minutes work to ensure optimal shifting while riding.

jetdog9 said:

Shoot you know what, now I remember what I really wanted to ask here and the chain is the LESS important part... what I am really concerned about is if I can get away with the same front derailleur position for the 52 as the 53...

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That could be an issue. I would try it as-is. Lower it if necessary.

RHankey said:

A 52/36 technically exceeds the 16T capacity of a Dura Ace 9000 series front der. As such, you might expect to have some rubbing in the small ring, especially if you choose to leave the der positioned slightly higher for the 53/39 crank. Ignoring the capacity issue, I'm sure shifting would not be sufficiently degraded if you left the der unadjusted for this to be a temporary solution. If it were my bike, I would be adjusting the der and cable as part of the swap over, as I see it as only a few more minutes work to ensure optimal shifting while riding.

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Please explain this. And explain why Shimano makes part # Y1N236000, Shimano Dura-Ace 9000 36t 110mm 11-Speed Chainring for 36/52t

cxwrench said:

Please explain this. And explain why Shimano makes part # Y1N236000, Shimano Dura-Ace 9000 36t 110mm 11-Speed Chainring for 36/52t

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Oops, I had a math problem this morning. Hazards of responding prior to first coffee. 36/52T does meet the 16T total capacity, and thus should not rub, so long as suitably adjusted for the chainrings being used.

I'll correct my prior post, so as to not add undue confusion.