[HillMan]

So I won a Ritchey crankset on ebay a few months ago that I am planning on using on my fixed gear project. It is a road frame conversion with an 68mm BB shell and horizontal dropouts. Below is a link to an identical crankset (except I only paid $37 for mine- I had no idea I had gotten such a good deal!):

http://cgi.ebay.com/RITCHEY-WCS-ROAD-BIKE-CRANKSET-170mm_W0QQitemZ7231771208QQcategoryZ56195QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I am using a Formula rear hub with a chainline of 42mm. I just bought a 46 tooth track ring that I would like to mount on the outside of the crankarm spider and I am wondering if I buy a ISIS bottom bracket with the right length spindle this might be possible. I have used the search function and read Sheldon's take, but I still can't figure things out. How do I know what bottom bracket to buy? What other measuremnts do I need to know? Or is it not possible to get a 42mm (or thereabouts) chainline on the outside of the crankarm spider on a road frame?

Many thanks.

Edit: Looks like the BB may be Octolink. I don't know the difference and I don't know if this changes anything.

 

[FTM]

the BB is an Octalink and therefore you don't have much available in sizes (109.5 and 118.5 widths). If you use a 109.5mm BB and put the chainring on the inside then you should have a 41mm chainline spacing up front. Not perfect but good enough. Can't really get a good chainline by putting the ring on the outside without getting funky with you read hub spacing.

Nice cranks by the way, I've got my eyes on a compact version for my fixed cyclocross bike.

 

[HillMan]

Thanks for the info. It won't be the end of the world if I have to mount the ring on the inside. Is 41mm really close enough? Would it be possible to adjust the spacing of my rear hub when it has cartridge bearings? Or are the bearings unrelated?

One thing I have thought about: My rear hub is 120mm, my frame is 126mm. If I cold set the frame more on the left side than on the right, could I conceivably dish the rear wheel and get the chain line I want? Stupid idea?

The best part about the cranks is that I paid $37 for them, and sold the chainrings for $29. Pretty awesome cranks for $8. There are still great deals on ebay, if you look hard enough.

 

[FTM]

Thanks for the info. It won't be the end of the world if I have to mount the ring on the inside. Is 41mm really close enough? Would it be possible to adjust the spacing of my rear hub when it has cartridge bearings? Or are the bearings unrelated?

One thing I have thought about: My rear hub is 120mm, my frame is 126mm. If I cold set the frame more on the left side than on the right, could I conceivably dish the rear wheel and get the chain line I want? Stupid idea?

The best part about the cranks is that I paid $37 for them, and sold the chainrings for $29. Pretty awesome cranks for $8. There are still great deals on ebay, if you look hard enough.

I'm not that familiar with the Formula hubs but if it's not a flip flop type hub, you might be able to add 6mm of spacers on the non drive side, re-dish the wheel slightly, not have to mess with the frame and have a perfect chainline for putting the chainring on the outside of the spider.

I'll let somone with more knowledge of the Formula hubs chime in.

Hope I can find such a deal on cranks like those.

 

[HillMan]

The Formula hubs are flip flop, but I don't plan on using the free side, so I could do what you suggest- except the axle on the hub is not long enough to use any spacers. I am starting to wonder if I should put the Ritchey cranks on my geared bike, and use the Chorus cranks on the fixed gear. I know you can get a 102 or 103mm square taper bottom bracket. Maybe I should'nt have sold those chainrings after all- I am pretty sure those cranks are lighter than the Campy set I've got.

Any other suggestions for getting the chainring to the outside?

 

[ChuckUni]

A few ideas.....

1. New longer axle...space it over/dish the wheel. Cheap/cheesy solution.
2. Shorter BB and campy cranks. Cranks might not clear BB or chainstays with short BB...not sure.
3. Phil BB is adjustable....but $$$ and not really adjustable enough...also see #2.
4. Paul hub would put it very close to the ouside. ~46mm chainline with dura ace cog.
5. run it on the inside....find a cool chain guard for the outside.
6. Track crankset.
7. Run it on the inside anyway....

 

[HillMan]

Thanks. I will see what it looks like with the ring on the inside and decide from there.

 

[FTM]

Give Tony at IRO a call. His hubs are made by Formula but he has them put in a longer axel for more versatility. He might be able to hook you up with one for a few bucks.

If that doesn't work, put the chainring on the inside for a month and then see if it bugs you before buying new bottom brackets etc. You'll probably be fine with it as is and save some money but if not happy then it will be money well spent.

 

[endure26]

Check out an XTR Octalink BB - make sure it's V1 same as Ultegra and Dura-Ace. Available in 112.5 and 116mm lengths. Go here: http://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/c/COMPBBSHIMMTN

Additional length should get you pretty close to your desired cl with ring on the outside.

 

[FTM]

Check out an XTR Octalink BB - make sure it's V1 same as Ultegra and Dura-Ace. Available in 112.5 and 116mm lengths. Go here: http://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/c/COMPBBSHIMMTN

Additional length should get you pretty close to your desired cl with ring on the outside.

Those would actually move the cranks out farther than if he used a 109.5mm. He either needs to move the cog out 4mm or the crankset in by 4mm to have a perfect chainline with the chainring being on the outside of the spider. Ideally, he could find a BB that would be 101.5mm but that would probably cause frame clearance issues if he could even mount the cranks on a BB that small.

 

[endure26]

My bad - thought he was trying to move it out. Guess I was confused too.