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contamination as in some silicon from some spray. i used "mr sheen" on my bike, but i'm careful when i use it.
I didn't use any silicone spray on my bike. I wash it with just soap, degreaser on the chain and casette is applied using a toothbrush, and I lubricate the chain with a dropper. But the rotors are cleaned anyway.
in terms of displacement, while the MTB stuff does now have FM, i don't know if the pistons are machined the same internally for fluid displacement. chances are that they look the same, but who know without measuring them
I see your point, I suppose it's true, but most companies to be competitive today use as many interchangeable parts as possible. It saves on research and manufacturing costs. Fun fact: Volvo (just one example) offers 4-5 diesel engines today with main engine being the same. They add parts to make it more powerful like turbo or supercharger. Sometimes the change is just in the engine control unit. You can just reprogram it and get the more powerful engine.
Also Shimano does offer flat mount for MTB in SLX, XT and XTR range.
And they (including road ones) REAAAALY look the same :D
I imagine (I could be wrong) that they are all the same except for highest range XTR and dura-ace being of lighter material, but still dimension wise, the same.
 

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It seems that flat-mounts are made for 140/160 front, 140 rear, that's it. Flip the orientation of the fork adapter for 140 or 160. Now, how can I use 180 in front?? Is there a flat-mount adapter for this?? Apparently there's an adapter for the rear to use a 160 instead of a 140, so I guess it could be mounted on the fork adapter? Two adapters, that sounds super ugly and many screws. Is there a one-adapter solution for 180mm? Thanks -
whisky makes a fork that can adapt for 180 rotors using a normal flat mount 160 adaptor. I just installed one on a customers bike and if you are willing to get a new fork you can do it.
 

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so, as a joke, i went from 160 to 140

the initial bite and modulation isn't as good

already running metal pads on a DA 9200 setup. so... there is some logic to the need to go bigger rotor for those who prefer a more positive initial feel and modulation.
 

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One should probably wear a parachute if running 180 rotors, in case the front locks up and doesn't skid.
How would you get the front tire to skid if it locks up. It won't happen, you're going on a flying lesson.
 

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How would you get the front tire to skid if it locks up. It won't happen, you're going on a flying lesson.
No! It’s discs. You don’t lock up the front and go over the bars because discs are so much better.


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No! It’s discs. You don’t lock up the front and go over the bars because discs are so much better.
How can I forget? Disc brakes are the solution to everything including warts and hemorrhoids.
 

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guys, this isn't productive.

we are here to discuss the options to go 180 on the front discs for a roadie.
My fairy dragon makes less fire when it’s 180! That’s the level of discussion we are at here.


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It seems that flat-mounts are made for 140/160 front, 140 rear, that's it. Flip the orientation of the fork adapter for 140 or 160. Now, how can I use 180 in front?? Is there a flat-mount adapter for this?? Apparently there's an adapter for the rear to use a 160 instead of a 140, so I guess it could be mounted on the fork adapter? Two adapters, that sounds super ugly and many screws. Is there a one-adapter solution for 180mm? Thanks -
Here’s the answer To your adapter question. I’m a bigger rider and living in the mountains need more stopping power than a 160 in front offers.
Rectangle Font Screenshot Auto part Circle


 

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If you put those on, you're going to have to sit 23% lower cause when you hit the brakes your going over the bars, end of story. You're iether going to fly down 4' or over the guard rail for a big dive.
 

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If you put those on, you're going to have to sit 23% lower cause when you hit the brakes your going over the bars, end of story. You're iether going to fly down 4' or over the guard rail for a big dive.
It all in learning how to use your brakes and applying gradual pressure. It isn't hard.
 

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As the previous guys posted...what's the thinking behind a 180mm rotor? If you actually 'need' a 180 rotor to slow yourself down what you really need is a different bike. There is no good way to put a 180mm rotor on a bike w/ flat mount calipers.
there actually is a good way to mount a 180mm see my last post. “Engineering minds always come up with solutions”
 

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It all in learning how to use your brakes and applying gradual pressure. It isn't hard.
So when I went from a 160 to 200 on my mountain bike I didn’t go over the bars and way more power with way less finger effort or long ride fatigue. I don’t buy 160mm rotors for 200+ riders on very long mountain Descents They just don’t cut it and get way too hot. I’m a mechanical engineer and it’s simple math more leverage more power even if you don’t need it all it’s better than working something underside way too hard for the job at hand.
 

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So when I went from a 160 to 200 on my mountain bike I didn’t go over the bars and way more power with way less finger effort or long ride fatigue. I don’t buy 160mm rotors for 200+ riders on very long mountain Descents They just don’t cut it and get way too hot. I’m a mechanical engineer and it’s simple math more leverage more power even if you don’t need it all it’s better than working something underside way too hard for the job at hand.
Well if you are prepared for the fact yoy will have more braking power, you won't go over the bars. If you apply the same pressure you did before, then there is a good chance you will do an endo. It's all about being prepared for change.
 
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