The F482SB doesn't have adjustable pre-load. Just tighten the end caps down about as hard as you would tighten your seat post clamp.I have a Novatec F428SB rear hub and I think the preload might be off. Is the preload adjusted by changing the tightness of the non-freehub end cap?
There is a lot of resistance when I'm freewheeling. When I loosen the cap it's not quite as bad. Maybe the bearings are just shot? Which sucks because there are not that many miles on the hub, maybe 450.The F482SB doesn't have adjustable pre-load. Just tighten the end caps down about as hard as you would tighten your seat post clamp.
What symptoms make you think the pre-load is off?
Very, very, gritty when I spin the wheel by myself. Yes, the cassette body is original and it's Shimano/SRAM.Unless you took the bike to a car wash and shot pressurized water at the bearings, I wouldn't think the bearings are shot.
This is a perceptible thing when you are riding the bike, or the bearing feels sticky when you spin the wheel in your hand? If spinning it in your hand, does it feel gritty or just sticky?
Is the cassette body that's on there the original one? Do you have Campy or Shimano/SRAM drive train?
So should I replace the bearings? I see some hybrid ceramic on ebay for this hubset (front + back) for $30. This doesn't include freehub bearings but those seem fine. would replacing the end caps on anything have an effect?I don't have any good news for that one. We've sold I don't even know how many of those hubs, and they've probably collectively done a couple of million miles (seriously) and the only problem we've ever had with a hub was a gritty drive side bearing exactly like you describe. That wheel had been crashed and had done a full road and cross season but I rebuilt it for the guy. I tried everything before doing that.