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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It is driving me seriously nuts. Frame is a Bianchi Sempre 2012, group is campy record also 2012.

I have done all the fixes I have come across except teflon tape around the bearing which I think will be a problem with the bearing attached to the spindle. The cups are 609'd in, new bearings at the end of last season. I tried two wavy washers (not good). The drive side mostly but also the NDS esp. under load; click, creak, ugh.

I could put sram force on the bike or look for a preferably threaded BB frame. Some people say that the ultra torque has some inherent issues, I don't know, I just don't want to make a move and still have the noise. suggestions?
 

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deleted because of subsequent vital information, not in OP
 

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Are you positive it is the bottom bracket and not something else? I have read about people thinking they have a bottom bracket creak but it ended up being pedals, skewers, seat clamp, headset, or something else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've switched out and/or checked pretty much everything on the bike. I am pretty positive it is the BB
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes the Praxis is a good suggestion but they say you need a smooth internal surface of the BB which mine is not, there is a little lip that that a rubberized washer butts up against and then the campy BB30 cup.
 

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there is a little lip that that a rubberized washer butts up against and then the campy BB30 cup.
On some frames that little lip is an "O" clip that can be removed, thus allowing the installation of the Praxis adapter. My Cannondale SuperSix was like that. Check it out.
 

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I'm just gonna throw out an idea. Since it looks like the UT Campy cups locate off the BB face, can you see any indication that once they are pressed in, they aren't seating properly? i.e. the facing is off? Since the BB30 design relies on locating the bearings off the circlip inside the shell, most of the shell faces I've seen look unfinished whereas most PF30 faces have a cleaner finish for this exact reason. I'm not sure how you could easily check this without a shop doing a kiss cut with a facing tool (Park makes the tooling), but it's a thought.
I had this issue with a Torqtite BB in a PF30 frame once. The cups were being held askew because the faces weren't parallel. Did a quick check with a facer and found they were out by quite a bit. Cleaned it up and it's been quiet since.
 

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Agree with @rcb although now that we know it's a BB30 frame with a fixed lip to locate the bearing rather than a circlip, I may have a further answer, although it's not good news.

The Campy cup is designed to insert just past the location of the clip, with the "O" ring seating in the groove. If there is a shoulder at the location where a clip would normally go, then the cup is prevented from properly seating, and needs to be modified by grinding off a bit to work at all. I'm not sure from the OP who did the original installation. If I'm right then this is always going to be a problematic installation for a Campy cup. Sorry.



I only have one experience of using these cups - in a 2010 Supersix. Pressed in dry and have been rock solid ever since. The tolerances in terms of diameter and facing need to be spot on IMO for these things to work. OP's may be off either originally, or through galling.

As to the original question - ditch the frame. Even a true BB30 installation is liable to be a problem now. Likewise a BB30 bearing with reducing cups solution.
 

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I would contact Praxis by email and include the photo. Ask them what they suggest. They might have a solution that we aren't seeing.

Also the point made earlier about creaks coming from other than the BB and being mistaken for a BB creak cannot be over emphasized.

Earlier this year, I had a creak that I located to the seat post clamp, which is the type common to carbon frames that slips over the end of the carbon seat tube. I removed the clamp and applied carbon paste to the inner surface of the clamp where it makes contact with the seat tube. Voila. No more creaking.
 

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Not to be an alarmist but I would guess your frame is cracked (if it's not something other than the BB area like pedals, cleats, ring bolts, whatever).

A few of my riding friends have gone though the same thing and after trying everything they could think of found out the frame had a barely visible crack.
So, look really close. Like with a magnifying glass and flashlight.

I suppose it could be loose cups......but trying everything kind of rules out everything but the cups or a crack (it the noise is really from the BB).
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I think you maybe right, crap. I looked at the bb this morning and it "seems" that this drive side and nds are not 100% parallel with each other, the side that is closest to the front seems to be out farther then the rear, a somewhat inaccurate hand measure with a mm ruler indicates perhaps a 1mm difference between the front and the rear which would explain why the noise is primarily when the drive side is loaded.

I am going to take the crank off and put a micrometer on the cups, they are pressed in flush with the frame so it should give me an indication if what I am 'seeing' is what is actual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I think you and rcb might unfortunately be right. The BB sides do not seem to be parallel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok, after measuring with a micrometer the cups are square, it get the same measurement all the way around, so much for my calibrated vision. Also checked the chainring bolts as I had greased and torqued them at the end of last year, they are fine as are the bearings. F! I give up, I'll double check with Praxis but I think my bike is just going to be noisy.
 

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^Do check with Praxis.

Another manufacturer of BB30 adapters is Wheels Manufacturing. Lots of folks on RBR like those as well and vouch for the silence.

Also, don't give up applying carbon contact paste (e.g. Tacx) to all the bike's contact surfaces. You would be shocked at how many creaks get blamed on bottom
brackets.
 

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You didn't really answer any of the questions I posed.

Were the cups modified originally to allow them to fit?

Who has done these various installs, and how experienced are they?

Is the retaining clip installed on the DS cup per the instructions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I popped the cups out today. A little heat from a hair dryer and they came out without too much fuss. I was actually worried about that a bit.

My memory is for shite, I could have sworn there was a lip that that cup butted against but there isn't, there is an ever so slightly raised section in the middle of the BB as well as on both ends where the cups went. You can just catch with a fingernail, it is like a couple sheets of paper thick.

So I ordered the Praxis BB30 for campy UT as well as two Pedro BB sockets tools.

Thanks for the help/responses!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
No modifications, I put them in with the loctite 609 and it was the first BB30 I had done. The retaining clip was installed as per campy. I popped out the cups today and my recollection of the interior of the BB was all wrong, please see my response to tvad. I am going to try the Praxis.

Thanks for the help/responses!
 
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