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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm currently swapping out a SRAM S300 crankset (external GXP bottom bracket) to a Sugino RD4 (JIS square taper bottom bracket) on my single speed bike and hoping to get some advice from the wrenches here.

I've swapped out both types a few times and it's a pretty straighforward process, but I'm more familiar with external bottom bracket systems and do have a few questions about where to apply grease, anti-seize compound or thread locker on the BB and chainring bolts since I've never installed a new square tapered BB or chainring from scratch.

Below, listing the components, can anyone tell me if I am using the correct methods?:

BB to BB shell interface:
Assuming grease on all threads here is fine (both frame and BB are aluminum)
Left BB cup (non-drive side) to main BB interface: Should I use grease, anti-seize compound or nothing? The cup simply slides over the main BB unit, no threading.
Crank arms to spindle interface: From what I understand, I should use nothing here as grease will cause slipping problems
Axle bolt threads (bolting into the spindle): Should I use grease, anti-seize compound or thread locker? (I believe the spindle and bolts are CroMo steel)
Chainring nuts (surface interfacing with the chainrings): Nothing
Chainring bolt threads: Loctite 243, no grease

Referring the product manuals and online info, most tutorials don't seem to specify best practices. Thanks in advance.

Wood Musical instrument Font Tool Bicycle part
 

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What I would do, as it's all I've ever done, and neve had a single issue:

BB to BB shell interface: Grease
Left BB cup (non-drive side) to main BB interface: The cup simply slides over the main BB unit, no threading. Grease
Crank arms to spindle interface: Grease
Axle bolt threads (bolting into the spindle): Grease
Chainring nuts (surface interfacing with the chainrings): Grease
Chainring bolt threads: Grease

In a word... grease. Preferably a waterproof grease. Anywhere metal contacts metal.. grease.
I've always greased tapered spindles. It helps keep them from seizing and removal easier.

Hells no on anti seize. I hate it. It's messy and doesn't do anything grease doesn't do.
No need for loctite either.

Everything greased and torqued properly will do just fine. Prevent corrosion and creaking. And make disassembly easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
What I would do, as it's all I've ever done, and neve had a single issue:

BB to BB shell interface: Grease
Left BB cup (non-drive side) to main BB interface: The cup simply slides over the main BB unit, no threading. Grease
Crank arms to spindle interface: Grease
Axle bolt threads (bolting into the spindle): Grease
Chainring nuts (surface interfacing with the chainrings): Grease
Chainring bolt threads: Grease

In a word... grease. Preferably a waterproof grease. Anywhere metal contacts metal.. grease.
I've always greased tapered spindles. It helps keep them from seizing and removal easier.

Hells no on anti seize. I hate it. It's messy and doesn't do anything grease doesn't do.
No need for loctite either.

Everything greased and torqued properly will do just fine. Prevent corrosion and creaking. And make disassembly easier.
So... grease?

:) thanks!

Edit: I have what's left of a tube of Phil Wood waterproof grease that I will use for this application. From my experience, properly applied grease, with regular maintenance works fine for the vast majority of applications. I've used anti-seize as recommended by manufacturers, but I would think that grease probably would've yielded the same results.

Edit 2: thanks for the link to the waterproof grease. PW grease seems to work fine, but I'm prettty sure it's expensive simply because of the brand. I've also looked at safety data sheets for a lot of bicycle grease brands, and they're not nice to marine animals. If I can find something that's a bit safer for critters (i.e. Muc-off bio-grease?), I may try that stuff out. thanks again.
 

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So... grease?

:) thanks!

Edit: I have what's left of a tube of Phil Wood waterproof grease that I will use for this application. From my experience, properly applied grease, with regular maintenance works fine for the vast majority of applications. I've used anti-seize as recommended by manufacturers, but I would think that grease probably would've yielded the same results.
Agreed. Tiny bit of grease. There are some people who will have a seizure if they find out you use grease on a Campy square taper although I am not one of those.
 

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The only place I use anti-seize is on the pedal threads and ring bolts, because I've had both of those seize completely due to corrosion.
 
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If you look at the BB shell threads, notice there are factory applied threadlocker compound (white stuff). This means that do not use grease when installing. Clean the BB shell threads well with degreaser/alcohol, and install dry. I'd also recommend go grease free between spindle/crank arms, only grease the bolts.

Grease is not your friend in all instances.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
If you look at the BB shell threads, notice there are factory applied threadlocker compound (white stuff). This means that do not use grease when installing. Clean the BB shell threads well with degreaser/alcohol, and install dry. I'd also recommend go grease free between spindle/crank arms, only grease the bolts.

Grease is not your friend in all instances.
Thanks for the feedback. Yes, I noticed the threadlocker but failed to mention this in my original post. However, this is one of the few places where the manufacturer's instructions were prescriptive about applying grease, so I followed their instructions (after cleaning the BB shell).

For the spindle/crank arm interface, no grease is what I've understood to be the best practice as well. I kind of split the difference and wiped down the contact surfaces with Phil Wood grease, only leaving a very light residue (read: almost none), that may or may not help to keep them from seizing.

If I do notice any slipping, then I'll go back and remove grease from suspect areas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Thanks to everyone that provided feedback. Cranks are installed and they spin in circles!

Now, the next problem: the KMC X8 chain does not seem to fit onto the Sugino chainrings. Both are clearly marked 3/32" on the packaging. I tried to reinstall the old chain, but neither works.

I'll contact the bike shop that sold both parts to me, but if anybody has any idea of what's going on, I'm all ears.

If you think I should start a new thread for this issue and post pics, I can toss up a new post.

Edit: I'll start a new post re: chain compatibility, hopefully keeping the threads on topic.
 

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Thanks for the feedback. Yes, I noticed the threadlocker but failed to mention this in my original post. However, this is one of the few places where the manufacturer's instructions were prescriptive about applying grease, so I followed their instructions (after cleaning the BB shell).

For the spindle/crank arm interface, no grease is what I've understood to be the best practice as well. I kind of split the difference and wiped down the contact surfaces with Phil Wood grease, only leaving a very light residue (read: almost none), that may or may not help to keep them from seizing.

If I do notice any slipping, then I'll go back and remove grease from suspect areas.
Just be mindful of the crank bolt torque. It's easy to over-tighten and aluminum is no match for steel, especially when there's grease.
 
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