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Discussion Starter #21
I have tender thumb joints, I find that the aero drop bars have a wider surface to put my hand on and not have the bar working up in between my thumb and first finger.
Oh, I see. That makes sense. Thanks for explaining.
 

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Now the only thing that I think may be an issue is the circumference. For most round drop bars, it's much thicker by the stem than it is by the tops. Most bars tend to have a pretty noticeable taper about an inch or so past the stem. With the round bar above, though, the taper is very gradual, so I'm expecting it to have a much thicker diameter , which is something I may or may not need to get use to. I guess I have no choice but to test it out and see for myself.
Hmmm. I hadn't noticed that before. Bars in general used to have a clamp diameter of 25.4mm, but most are now 31.8mm. That is why the thick look in the center while the rest of the bar is the standard 25.4mm. This one in your photo looks like it stays wider until it bends forward toward the hoods.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Hmmm. I hadn't noticed that before. Bars in general used to have a clamp diameter of 25.4mm, but most are now 31.8mm. That is why the thick look in the center while the rest of the bar is the standard 25.4mm. This one in your photo looks like it stays wider until it bends forward toward the hoods.
Yea', exactly. I don't understand why Shimano chose to do that, but I'm hoping the overall feel isn't affected by that too much.
 

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Yea', exactly. I don't understand why Shimano chose to do that, but I'm hoping the overall feel isn't affected by that too much.
I'm guessing if you have larger hands, it will all be good. If you have smaller hands, then use the thinnest bar tape you can find.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I'm guessing if you have larger hands, it will all be good. If you have smaller hands, then use the thinnest bar tape you can find.
Definitely on the smaller side, so I returned it. Nice, really light bar, but there was over an inch of extra diameter on the tops and that was only with the bar tape, not including the gel pads, which I definitely wanted. So I DIYed my original bar and called it day.
 

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Definitely on the smaller side, so I returned it. Nice, really light bar, but there was over an inch of extra diameter on the tops and that was only with the bar tape, not including the gel pads, which I definitely wanted. So I DIYed my original bar and called it day.
Hey, go with it. The reason drop bars are larger diameter at the stem is because that's where the highest stress point is, and where they break.

I have large hands, so love my old slightly oversized Cinelli Campione del Mondo 26.4 mm bars. They spread out the shock waves on the hands, but the bar tape and gloves absorb shocks, too. If you add gel pads, problem solved!
 

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I have the top grips on my bike - super comfortable. They’re a nice add to a standard round-tube drop bar.

 

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I have the top grips on my bike - super comfortable. They’re a nice add to a standard round-tube drop bar.

Cool! More aerodynamic and ergonomic than double wrap tape, the method used by more than a few long distance riders.
 

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I have the top grips on my bike - super comfortable. They’re a nice add to a standard round-tube drop bar.

Hmmm. I may try these.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Hey, go with it. The reason drop bars are larger diameter at the stem is because that's where the highest stress point is, and where they break.

I have large hands, so love my old slightly oversized Cinelli Campione del Mondo 26.4 mm bars. They spread out the shock waves on the hands, but the bar tape and gloves absorb shocks, too. If you add gel pads, problem solved!
The original bar I installed has somewhat thicker bar tape and 4.5 mm gel pads that will do a decent job of absorbing shock, so sacrificing the smaller overall diameter (which I highly prefer) for a potential increase in absorbing shock with a larger diameter (if that's what you're actually saying) is not something I felt I needed.

But I guess at the end of the day only actual experience would give me a definitive answer and perhaps that experience may have led me to become use to (and possibly even prefer) larger diameter bars, but I decided not to risk it (mainly because of the hefty price tag on the Pro Vibe) and so I sent the bars back.

I have the top grips on my bike - super comfortable. They’re a nice add to a standard round-tube drop bar.

I had similar grips on an old hybrid I use to own. They were very, very comfortable.
 

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The original bar I installed has somewhat thicker bar tape and 4.5 mm gel pads that will do a decent job of absorbing shock, so sacrificing the smaller overall diameter (which I highly prefer) for a potential increase in absorbing shock with a larger diameter (if that's what you're actually saying) is not something I felt I needed.

But I guess at the end of the day only actual experience would give me a definitive answer and perhaps that experience may have led me to become use to (and possibly even prefer) larger diameter bars, but I decided not to risk it (mainly because of the hefty price tag on the Pro Vibe) and so I sent the bars back.



I had similar grips on an old hybrid I use to own. They were very, very comfortable.
Whoa, 4.5mm gel pad AND thicker bar tape? I think you would be better off using thinner bar tape with the gel pads. That fat a bar for me would be terribly awkward.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Whoa, 4.5mm gel pad AND thicker bar tape? I think you would be better off using thinner bar tape with the gel pads. That fat a bar for me would be terribly awkward.
I guess it just boils down to personal preference. I've seen people double up gel pads on Youtube before - it looked like they had a mini throw pillow under that tape - but they loved it, which showed me how very subjective this could be.

That said, I definitely thought the same thing about the size of the current pads and tape at first, but in reality, it's not that much larger than the 2.5 mm pads that came with the bar that I used for several years. I'm using the same exact bar tape as well. So I not only really enjoy the configuration, but I'm also very use to it. It just feels "right." Would I have preferred the 2.5 pads? Probably. I couldn't find them anywhere, though, so wound up going with the 4.5's.

Anyway, I have yet to go on a longer ride with the new pads, so I can't say for sure if it'll be a discernible difference or not (I would assume not), but if it is awkward, I'll just use the Fizik pads that I have laying around (which are way thinner) or maybe even try a thinner bar tape. We'll see.
 

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I guess it just boils down to personal preference. I've seen people double up gel pads on Youtube before - it looked like they had a mini throw pillow under that tape - but they loved it, which showed me how very subjective this could be.

That said, I definitely thought the same thing about the size of the current pads and tape at first, but in reality, it's not that much larger than the 2.5 mm pads that came with the bar that I used for several years. I'm using the same exact bar tape as well. So I not only really enjoy the configuration, but I'm also very use to it. It just feels "right." Would I have preferred the 2.5 pads? Probably. I couldn't find them anywhere, though, so wound up going with the 4.5's.

Anyway, I have yet to go on a longer ride with the new pads, so I can't say for sure if it'll be a discernible difference or not (I would assume not), but if it is awkward, I'll just use the Fizik pads that I have laying around (which are way thinner) or maybe even try a thinner bar tape. We'll see.
Where did you ever find bar tape that would extend as far as it needs to with all that gel padding. I used 2.5mm gel padding and my tapr came up a little short.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Where did you ever find bar tape that would extend as far as it needs to with all that gel padding. I used 2.5mm gel padding and my tapr came up a little short.
How short? I tend to leave about two inches worth of space from the edge of the stem to the end of the bar tape to make room for my bike computer, etc. Is that what you mean? How much space do you have in between these two points?

I picked the tape up from my LBS. It's by Specialized. So I don't know if what you experienced was because length varies from brand to brand or if there's another reason, but even though I wrap closely on the drops (leaving a half inch space in between each wrap) and space it out a just bit more on the tops, there's still enough tape to reach all the way to the stem. So I have no clue why your tape (with slightly smaller padding) came up short.
 

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How short? I tend to leave about two inches worth of space from the edge of the stem to the end of the bar tape to make room for my bike computer, etc. Is that what you mean? How much space do you have in between these two points?

I picked the tape up from my LBS. It's by Specialized. So I don't know if what you experienced was because length varies from brand to brand or if there's another reason, but even though I wrap closely on the drops (leaving a half inch space in between each wrap) and space it out a just bit more on the tops, there's still enough tape to reach all the way to the stem. So I have no clue why your tape (with slightly smaller padding) came up short.
The Fizik tape I used stops 3.5 inches from the stem on each side. My bar is 44cm if that makes a difference. The tape on my other bike stops about 2 inches from the stem which I consider normal. That is more than plenty of room for my cyclometer and headlight. Come tp think of it, I think Fizik is just stingy with length.
 

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I start my bar tape at the stem and go to the ends, leaving 2" clear at the stem.
 

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I start my bar tape at the stem and go to the ends, leaving 2" clear at the stem.
Are you serious or are you hosing us? What happens if you don't reach the plugs?
 

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Discussion Starter #38
The Fizik tape I used stops 3.5 inches from the stem on each side. My bar is 44cm if that makes a difference. The tape on my other bike stops about 2 inches from the stem which I consider normal. That is more than plenty of room for my cyclometer and headlight. Come tp think of it, I think Fizik is just stingy with length.
Yea', maybe. Unless you're not leaving any spacing between each wrap (which I don't think is something anyone does), I would assume that's what it may be. My bar is 42 cm, so the 2cm difference obviously doesn't account for the remaining 1.4 and some odd inches.
 

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I'm serious, all my bikes that I wrap single ply are stem to plugs. If you don't reach the plugs, just rewrap from the shifter down, don't spend much time there and don't need much padding there either. And I usually add padding on top of the bar under the wrap (about 3/32") with a oval drop bar.
On my main bike, when I rewrap, i do the weave. I don't wrap around the shifters, I go straight around them and keep going, I use spare scraps to fill in around the shifters as required.
 

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I'm serious, all my bikes that I wrap single ply are stem to plugs. If you don't reach the plugs, just rewrap from the shifter down, don't spend much time there and don't need much padding there either. And I usually add padding on top of the bar under the wrap (about 3/32") with a oval drop bar.
On my main bike, when I rewrap, i do the weave. I don't wrap around the shifters, I go straight around them and keep going, I use spare scraps to fill in around the shifters as required.
Never tried it, but have seen several very together examples. Does the wrap loosen on the tops if hands are on the tops all the time? It might stay better in place than counter clockwise from the drops. I have to rewrap mine once in a while from hoods to center.

videolife, you made the right choice returning those expensive bars. Handlebars bend up in a crash. I've had to replace them several times on two bikes. Then again, some riders don't crash.
 
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