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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's up?

I rode my new built up rear wheel a little over 200 miles. When I investigated a squeaking noise that my bike was making I discovered a couple of nds spokes that were obviously loose and others with reduced tension. My wheelbuilder said that all the spokes, nds & ds, had loosened one full turn. He retensioned the wheel and told me to ride it 150 miles and bring it again to verify it is okay.

Details - White Industries 28-spoke hub mated to a Velocity Deep V rim using DT Swiss Spokes and brass nipples all the way around. I weigh 205 lbs.

BTW - Everybody on the training ride when the noise started guessed everything but my wheels as the source.
 

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My guess is that he just stuck the spokes in and trued it up rather than take the time to thoroughly stress relieve them and balance the tension. In other words the spokes were inadequately stressed and bedded in during the build, plus tension was probably low and uneven. Some people claim that it is ok so long as you true them a couple of times soon after the build, but IMO it is much better to do it right the first time. Usually, if you do it during the initial build, the tension will stay put and the wheels will stay true for a very long time.
 

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I'm guessing the wheel builder "forgot" to adjust the bends of the outbound spokes where they exit the hub when he laced the wheel. The result is that the outbound spokes, especially the NDS will have too much elasticity since they aren't laying flat, and will readily allow the nipples to unwind. It only takes a couple spokes to loosen, and the rest will follow. If they loosen again, take both wheels elsewhere to have this step properly done prior to them retensioning the wheel. Threadlocking the nipples is a bandaid.
 

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i second both points.... also consider spoke wind up....

by dt spokes, i assume u mean the dt competitions given that build.... if so... geez! not to sound harsh or anything, but if your wheel builder can't get that particular build right, find a new builder!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
wankski said:
i second both points.... also consider spoke wind up....

by dt spokes, i assume u mean the dt competitions given that build.... if so... geez! not to sound harsh or anything, but if your wheel builder can't get that particular build right, find a new builder!
14/15 double butted. Does that sound right?
 

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dekindy said:
Should I have straight gauge ds and butted nds spokes?
Not unless you need to save about $0.25 per spoke x14 for some reason. Double butted spokes absorb a bit of shock in their thinner center section and therefore transmit less shock to the elbow - which is the weakest link in a j-bend spoke.
 

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yep, its not your spokes thats the problem....

if they are dt competitions all round (14/15 - double butted), thats a pretty good default spoke to work with... its an industry standard for a reason... (or sapim race etc, but its dt 'round these parts!)

straight guage will be a little stiffer and heavier, but as mike said, may not last as long as the 14/15 spoke.... nothing wrong with the 14g spoke, but the 14/15 is the best overall compromise spoke... they should have build up pretty easily.
 
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