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What the what???
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I use a home-brew (2/3 OMS to 1/3 synthetic motor oil) as a chain lube.

I'm curious if folks have a home-brew recipe for lubing other parts of the bike (derailleur pivots, caliper pivots, etc.) If so, what recipe do you use? Or do you use standard home-brew for all (non-grease) lubing needs?
 

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Resident Curmudgeon
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For pivots on derailleurs, brakes. shifters, etc. I use WD40. Flame away.
 

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I use a home-brew (2/3 OMS to 1/3 synthetic motor oil) as a chain lube.

I'm curious if folks have a home-brew recipe for lubing other parts of the bike (derailleur pivots, caliper pivots, etc.) If so, what recipe do you use? Or do you use standard home-brew for all (non-grease) lubing needs?
The reason to use a solvent-diluted oil on chains is to gain both cleaning properties and penetration. The cleaning comes when the solvent loosens the gunk on the chain and can then be wiped off. The penetration comes because the viscosity of the oil is greatly reduced and so it can get into the smallest spaces. For thinks like brake and derailleur pivots you do not need nor do you benefit from these properties. For that application I just use 20w electric motor oil (available in any hardware store).

Since automatic transmission fluid is not miscible with acetone I fail to understand how this gains the advantages of penetration. The ATF is not thinned by the acetone. People use all kinds of different oils in their home brew so why not just thin the ATF with OMS (if you really like ATF)?
 

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A wheelist
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Do I dare hope that the time when people reacted with "WD-40 IS NOT A LUBRICANT!" to every mention of the stuff is finally over?
Let's hope so. WD-40 is a great lubricant (for the right purpose, as is any lubricant). It's just a lube that's thinned down - no more, no less.

If anyone doubts its effectiveness, try this -

1. Put it on something that squeaks (except a mouse). Result (if you get it to where the surfaces rub) - squeak goes away.
2. Put some in an open container and let the thinner evaporate (this will take a while). Pour what's left into an oilcan and now you have a lovely oily, thickish lube; useful for lots of lubing purposes.

Its best use for me though is for cleaning my titanium frames. It's the best stuff I've ever used for the job.
 

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Since automatic transmission fluid is not miscible with acetone I fail to understand how this gains the advantages of penetration. The ATF is not thinned by the acetone. People use all kinds of different oils in their home brew so why not just thin the ATF with OMS (if you really like ATF)?
I'm no scientist but ATF is thinned when shaken with acetone allowing it to penetrate into tight areas. Then when the acetone evaporates the ATF thickens back up to it's original viscosity allowing it to stick to a chain. Try it.

Read this;

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/penetrating-lube-test/13650/page1/

[email protected] said:

Some of you might appreciate this. Machinist's Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts.

They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

Penetrating oil ..... Average load

None ...................... 516 pounds

WD-40 ................... 238 pounds

PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds

Liquid Wrench ......... 127 pounds

Kano Kroil .............. 106 pounds

ATF-Acetone mix.......53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
 

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IME Tri-Flow = dirt magnet. It's a great lube but it really seems to attract dirt, which then turns it into a crappy lube. I used it on my commuter bike in the winter (snow & salt) because it really resisted the water.
Haven't had that problem, but I use it sparingly and wipe off the excess.
 

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I like Tri-flo but dang it's so expensive. When I purchased it and used it I recognized the smell and wondered if it's "Rem oil" just in a different bottle?
 

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I use Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) for all sorts of tasks. It's a premixed "homebrew" of solvent, light machine oil, and wintergreen oil which gives it a very good smell. MMO was originally developed to "condition" rubber parts in automotive carburetors. Good for assembly lube on threaded parts and for dripping down control and brake cables. I never tried it for a chain lube, but it would likely work like the mineral spirits/oil mix.
 

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I'm no scientist but ATF is thinned when shaken with acetone allowing it to penetrate into tight areas. Then when the acetone evaporates the ATF thickens back up to it's original viscosity allowing it to stick to a chain. Try it.

Read this;

Penetrating Lube Test: Grassroots Motorsports forum: Grassroots Motorsports Magazine

[email protected] said:

Some of you might appreciate this. Machinist's Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts.

They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

Penetrating oil ..... Average load

None ...................... 516 pounds

WD-40 ................... 238 pounds

PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds

Liquid Wrench ......... 127 pounds

Kano Kroil .............. 106 pounds

ATF-Acetone mix.......53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
Actually I did read it before you posted it because I had looked up the ATF-acetone mix to see what I could find out. What I found out that ATF-acetone separates after shaking and this is why I made the comment that they are not miscible. While the emulsion viscosity is decreased because the droplets of ATF are dispersed in the acetone that is NOT the same as lowering the viscosity of the ATF. And I also found a lot of critiques of the methodology and conclusions of that "study".
 

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Actually I did read it before you posted it because I had looked up the ATF-acetone mix to see what I could find out. What I found out that ATF-acetone separates after shaking and this is why I made the comment that they are not miscible. While the emulsion viscosity is decreased because the droplets of ATF are dispersed in the acetone that is NOT the same as lowering the viscosity of the ATF. And I also found a lot of critiques of the methodology and conclusions of that "study".[/QUOTE]

Shaking the ATF-Acetone mixture from what I can tell does reduce viscosity because it dang sure pours faster. But as stated before once the acetone evaporates all that's left is the original ATF and it's original viscosity. As far as critiques of this Homebrew is concerned they probably still believe we didn't land on the moon.

Below are pictures of the homebrew shaken and then let stand. The big bottle is 50/50 ATF/Acetone mix. The little bottle is 50/50 ATF/Coleman fuel. The little bottle after shaken did not change color and did not separate. It was also felt as if it was less lubricant.

View attachment 278043 View attachment 278044
 
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