Road Bike, Cycling Forums banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,824 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Recently my no. 22 Reactor titanium road bike has been making this really annoying mysterious ticking noise...but 99% of the time, it's only when I am climbing (6%+). I don't seem to hear it at all in the flats, even with hard efforts. I run mechanical DA 9000 with iLink housing. Shop thought it was "dirty" BB or Headset. Had both cleaned and serviced. Still noisy. Had seat clamp area greased. Still noisy. I swapped out my enve 2.2 tubulars with my roval 32 carbon clinchers just to rule out a wheel issue...still noisy. Had derailleurs checked. No rubbing issues. All screws tightened to specifications.

I am at a lost. Haven't brought the bike back to the shop again. Wanted to hear your thoughts on other possible causes for this ticking noise so I can suggest to the mechanic.

As you all know (well at least for me), climbing hills with a noisy bike is soooo annoying and messes up my rhythm.

Please advise. Ty so much!

PS: would post sound clip here but don't think it's possible?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Forever a Student
Joined
·
4,963 Posts
standing?
seated?
how often is the noise per pedal revolution?

lots of stuff to check still.

pedals, skewers, seat rail clamps, etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,824 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I climb mostly in the saddle, but also heard while out of the saddle...but slightly less noisy out of the saddle. The noise varies MMsRepBike; it can come about every third revolutions or every 4th or 5th. I've had noisy Look carbon pedals before, but since I've switched to DA, haven't had that annoying pedal creaking noise. But did clean pedals and cleats. Still hear the noise after switching to another set of shoes. Did grease saddle clamp.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,824 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Hmmm...using tune skewers for about a year now...could they cause ticking noise? I guess that makes sense, as the noise is heard mostly under load. I will try putting some grease at the pivot and under the drop outs. Easy to do. Definitely worth a try.

Thanks for the suggestion.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,580 Posts
I was going to ask if you used the same skewers on both wheelsets. Skewers can definitely click and pop.

Some other things to consider, in no particular order


  • Bars/Stem/Shifter-Brake clamp
  • Crank Arm bolts
  • Chainring bolts
  • Bent/chipped chainring teeth (does it happen on large and small rings?)
  • Derailleur jockey wheels
  • Check your derailleur hanger bolt(s)
  • Chain master link/pin/bent link
  • Freehub body notched/loose cassette
  • Last but not least - is your frame cracked? Take a look around your stays in particular, but really anywhere.
 

·
Huge in Japan
Joined
·
456 Posts
I've had the rivets on the sprocket unit assembly come loose allowing the tiniest bit of play so when in those gears (climbing gears) my cassette was making noise.

These are not exactly easy things to diagnose over the interwebs, good luck.
 

·
What the what???
Joined
·
12,922 Posts
Less noisy (but not silent) out of the saddle suggests (but doesn’t guarantee):

Not bars, headset, bb, front skewer, post, saddle, pedals.

Cleats, rear skewer, cassette, rear derailleur are where I would start.
 

·
Banned Sock Puppet
Joined
·
14,411 Posts
What is your seatpost made out of? If it's carbon, the ticking/creaking could be coming from there. Remove, use some carbon paste, re-torque.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,636 Posts
Recently my no. 22 Reactor titanium road bike has been making this really annoying mysterious ticking noise...but 99% of the time, it's only when I am climbing (6%+). I don't seem to hear it at all in the flats, even with hard efforts. I run mechanical DA 9000 with iLink housing. Shop thought it was "dirty" BB or Headset. Had both cleaned and serviced. Still noisy. Had seat clamp area greased. Still noisy. I swapped out my enve 2.2 tubulars with my roval 32 carbon clinchers just to rule out a wheel issue...still noisy. Had derailleurs checked. No rubbing issues. All screws tightened to specifications.

I am at a lost. Haven't brought the bike back to the shop again. Wanted to hear your thoughts on other possible causes for this ticking noise so I can suggest to the mechanic.

As you all know (well at least for me), climbing hills with a noisy bike is soooo annoying and messes up my rhythm.
It is fairly common to have clicking noises, but ticks and clicks are very hard to eliminate sometimes. What seems like it is tied to the pedals may be coming from the seat post, etc. Sometimes things like temperature and humidity can affect noises as well. Also, things like the front derailleur cage just hitting the crank, loose bottle cage bolts, or the front derailleur cable sticking out and hitting your shoe can seem like they are clicks but really aren't. Another thing to consider is that the frame and components are flexing from pedaling forces, and so you can get a click or creak sound where you think it couldn’t be – for example the seat post & clamp can make noise even when you are standing and pedaling due the frame flexing. Here’s a link if you don’t like reading the rest of this post: Bicycle Touring Tips, Lessons Learned, and Tricks of the Trade

Clicks tied to your pedaling can come from
- BB (grease all threads in contact with the frame and BB, all metal to metal contact surfaces, and torque to the recommended settings, which can be quite high), the faces of tapered BB axles if they have a little corrosion
- bolt holding the BB cable guide onto the frame (grease threads and make sure the bolt is not touching the BB shell inside the frame)
- crank bolts (grease threads and washers)
- chain ring bolts (take them all out and grease the threads, the faces where they contact the CRs, and the CRs where they contact the crank spider arms)
- a dirty chain, inadequately lubed chain, stiff link in a chain or a burr on one of the "break off" special links used to assemble the chain
- front derailleur clamp (clean and put a light film of grease on the inside of the clamp where it touches the seat tube)
- front derailleur cage hitting crank arm
- the pedals (grease the threads and the shoulders of the axle where it butts against the crank arm, get some wax, silicone etc. on the cleats, check for play in the bearings, squirt some lube into the guts of the pedal machinery if possible)
- shoes/cleats - loose cleat nut rattling around in the shoe sole, shoe/cleat interface, cleat bolts, cleats touching pedals (wax lube, silicone, or furniture polish)
- seat post and saddle (grease the post, seat post clamp, seat post bolts, saddle rails, and add some oil to where the rails go into the saddle body)
- bars and stem (grease the stem where it clamps to steerer or goes into the steerer if quill type, top cap, stem bolts at both ends, h'bar bolt if quill stem, and h'bar where it goes through the stem)
- grease/tighten QRs and where the hub axle contacts the frame
- tighten cassette lock ring, grease cassette hub body and cassette spacers
- grease steerer tube spacers (if threadless)
- replaceable derailleur hangers (remove, clean, grease all parts and threads, reassemble)
- any other bolt (bottle cages, derailleur clamps, derailleur bolts, shift cable casing stops, etc.)
- cables hitting the frame (cable donuts), or shifting in their end ferrules (lube contact points).

Wheels can make noises when pedaling or coasting (check for spoke tension, particularly on the rear non drive side, put a drop of lube where each pair of spokes cross and where each spoke enters the rim and the hub flange, check for loose metal bits or spoke nipples in the body of the rim and cracks in the rim at spoke holes.).

Clicks that happen when you coast can come from:
- computer wheel magnet hitting the pickup (computer pickup reed switch noise cannot be fixed)
- nuts on threaded Presta valve stems (throw the nut away)
- valve stems hitting/moving against the rim
- wheel reflectors wobbling.

Needless to say, you want to try these things in what seems like the most likely place the noise is coming from, but there are plenty of stories about "I was sure the noise was in the handlebars but it went away when I tightened up the spokes in the rear wheel," so keep trying different things until you have success.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,824 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hey...thanks for ALL the great advice, tips, suggestions. Man, do many things to consider and sort out. That's why these mysterious noises are so annoying.

I will take it step by step. Do the "easy" quick fixes first. Already had BB and headset serviced a few days ago. Also Cleaned and oiled/greased pedals and cleats and greased junction of saddle clamp and rails. Still ticking under load.

Will turn my attention to the front and rear skewers and go from there.

My rig is below:



Bicycle tire Bicycle frame Bicycle wheel rim Bicycle fork Bicycle wheel


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Banned Sock Puppet
Joined
·
14,411 Posts
Kerry Irons gave me an idea when he mentioned it could be front derailleur cage hitting crank/chain.

You say you only hear it while climbing. Could it possibly be that it's only happening when you are in your largest rear cog or 2?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,824 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Kerry Irons gave me an idea when he mentioned it could be front derailleur cage hitting crank/chain.

You say you only hear it while climbing. Could it possibly be that it's only happening when you are in your largest rear cog or 2?
Yes. Very apparent when climbing, especially in the saddle but also out of the saddle. In the saddle, climbing hills between 6-13% (not long climbs, just local hills) I am usually in the 34 and 21-25 in the rear. But I'd imagine I would hear it in the -28 as well. I did try mashing up for a short section on the 50-23 combo and don't recall hearing the ticking noise as much.

I really hope I'm not confusing matters more, but just from my recollection. Again I do a lot of tempo climbing in the saddle in that 34-21(-23, -25) combination the most with the gradients stated above.

I looked down at the FD and didn't notice any obvious rubbing, but I can see that a ticking noise could easily be caused by that. Will look more carefully later on today when I take her out.

And to reiterate, it's not a creaking noise that comes from cleats/pedals ( heard that before), it's more of a tick, tick, tick which varies...sometimes with every revolution, but sometimes silent and then heard after third or fourth revolutions??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Banned Sock Puppet
Joined
·
14,411 Posts
So you're saying you hear it in the 21-25T cogs, but not in the 28T cog?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,824 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So you're saying you hear it in the 21-25T cogs, but not in the 28T cog?
No. I said I usually climb in the 21-25 when doing my local hills sothat's when I notice the noise. BUT, I am quite certain that I would hear that same tick in the -28 as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Banned Sock Puppet
Joined
·
14,411 Posts
Sounds like a front derailleur adjustment or maybe a low limit adjustment that is too close to the chain.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,824 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Sounds like a front derailleur adjustment or maybe a low limit adjustment that is too close to the chain.
Thanks Lombard. I will definitely look at that area closely.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,824 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Update: only thing I did before today's post-work quick ride was put some carbon grease in the drop outs F and R, some grease at the pivots of the skewers, and electrical tape around the valves.

First short but steep climb...infrequent but still audible ticks. But sounded a bit different than before? Bummed. BUT rode on and did some more hills, also short but somewhat steep (9-13%)...and NO noise!!! Total ride was about 13.5 miles with 1700' of elevation gain.

I was sooo happy to climb in silence. I kept waiting for the ticking noise to start up again, but it didn't. Will go on longer rides this weekend and hopefully still quiet. Fingers crossed.

Thank you everyone for your tips, advice and suggestions. Hopefully this thread will help others. Personally, I've already printed out suggestions discussed here for future reference!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Recently my no. 22 Reactor titanium road bike has been making this really annoying mysterious ticking noise...but 99% of the time, it's only when I am climbing (6%+). I don't seem to hear it at all in the flats, even with hard efforts. I run mechanical DA 9000 with iLink housing. Shop thought it was "dirty" BB or Headset. Had both cleaned and serviced. Still noisy. Had seat clamp area greased. Still noisy. I swapped out my enve 2.2 tubulars with my roval 32 carbon clinchers just to rule out a wheel issue...still noisy. Had derailleurs checked. No rubbing issues. All screws tightened to specifications.

I am at a lost. Haven't brought the bike back to the shop again. Wanted to hear your thoughts on other possible causes for this ticking noise so I can suggest to the mechanic.

As you all know (well at least for me), climbing hills with a noisy bike is soooo annoying and messes up my rhythm.

Please advise. Ty so much!

PS: would post sound clip here but don't think it's possible?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Something similar happened to me. It was the front derailleur cable that had somehow stuck out and was being hit with the crank arm. I found out when the cable split after being hit too much.
Another thing could be that the Ti frame is flexing due to power and is hitting something that is close by.
The derailleur cable could be the culprit. Check for anything that could be being hit by the BB flexing.
My Litespeed T1 had a similar issue while climbing on hard gears. 39/12 or 39/11. The flex at the bottom bracket would cause the front chainring to move up and engage the 53! This happened a couple times due to very close tolerances. I realigned the stuff and it works fine.
I don't know how stiff your No 22 is. The T1 is pretty stiff but still it needed some tuning. Also your weight is a factor. I'm 200lbs. Big guys generate more power.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,824 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Something similar happened to me. It was the front derailleur cable that had somehow stuck out and was being hit with the crank arm. I found out when the cable split after being hit too much.
Another thing could be that the Ti frame is flexing due to power and is hitting something that is close by.
The derailleur cable could be the culprit. Check for anything that could be being hit by the BB flexing.
My Litespeed T1 had a similar issue while climbing on hard gears. 39/12 or 39/11. The flex at the bottom bracket would cause the front chainring to move up and engage the 53! This happened a couple times due to very close tolerances. I realigned the stuff and it works fine.
I don't know how stiff your No 22 is. The T1 is pretty stiff but still it needed some tuning. Also your weight is a factor. I'm 200lbs. Big guys generate more power.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Supposedly, the no 22 Reactor is designed to be pretty stiff as it is their top-end race bike. I am more of a spinner than masher as I am 5'8" and 133 lbs.

But the ticking noise appeared to have been due to the skewer-fork drop out interface. After greasing that area the ticking noise went away, at least for one ride. We'll see if the noise will come back?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Supposedly, the no 22 Reactor is designed to be pretty stiff as it is their top-end race bike. I am more of a spinner than masher as I am 5'8" and 133 lbs.

But the ticking noise appeared to have been due to the skewer-fork drop out interface. After greasing that area the ticking noise went away, at least for one ride. We'll see if the noise will come back?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Oh yeah I forgot. My wheels do that when the front skewer is not tight enough. I'm glad you found it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top