Road Bike, Cycling Forums banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm getting ready to have a custom steel "adventure" bike built and am interested in opinions regarding having a custom steel fork made for a 130mm rear hub. Eventually I'm having bikes built for both my wife and I, we are both retiring from elite racing soon, for travel in remote areas. I am planning on using 700c wheeled trailers with minimal weight on the bikes, we both weigh about 150lbs. I would like to use 6 of the exact same wheel for interchangeability. I'm considering using American Classic RD 205 hubs 32 hole, Mavic Open Pro rims. 3x straight gage spokes, built with zero dish. In my experience the AM Classic hubs are pretty easy to service and have minimal offset (about 10mm). Open Pros for durability and availability. I plan on having the frame offset to accommodate the zero dish build. Using zero dish allows for a single spoke length. The front fork would need to be built with 130mm spacing and offset for the zero dish rear hub. Wheelbuilding is not my expertise and I'd love to hear other suggestions. Any other easy to service, small offset hubs I should look at? I'm also looking for suggestions on easy to service pedals, MTB type, I've always used Time's but I replace them often. Any other suggestions welcome...

Thanks!
 

·
The web is a MUT
Joined
·
1,380 Posts
What are your plans for the bottom bracket, cranks, chainrings, and chainline?

You might be overthinking this. I'd suggest going with a standard built wheel for the trailer that matches your front wheel, then just carry a spare rear wheel if you really want to. Offsetting a frame and fork just to utilize a zero-dish rear wheel seems a bit extreme to my thinking, but then I haven't done any real remote rides to remote no-service regions.

If my math adds up it sounds like your 6 wheels in total adds up to two wheels for your bike, two wheels for your wife's bike, and one wheel for your trailer, and one wheel for your wife's trailer. I assume you are talking about a BOB type trailer with one 700c wheel on it. Correct me if I'm wrong.
 

·
banned from the museum
Joined
·
6,755 Posts
I am going pretty far with a custom build, but I wouldn't go that far. Go with four front wheels and 2 rear wheels. It will simplify your life, and your builder's life. I would go with a 135 rear spacing, and use a mtb hub (I did) and I am going with disk brakes on a "road" bike.

As for pedals, I would go with Eggbeaters. They don't get more simple than that.
 

·
passive/aggressive
Joined
·
236 Posts
check out the surly puglsey. It uses a 135mm hub front and rear with interchange ability. You could use a profile 6 speed hub or a SS specific cassette hub with 4 cogs and get huge triangulation and possibly zero dish.

Check out the specific fork they use, disc compatible. These are regularly used as a 26er sand/snow bike and a 29er as they will clear a 700x52 no problem. They use a 83mm BB to clear the rear wheel for clearance but are about as burley do anything as you can get.

There are numerous posts on them over at MTBR in the 29er forum.
 
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
good suggestions

Thanks for the suggestions so far. Here's some clarification on the frame design: "monstercross" style steel frame, most likely built by IF, cross bike like geometry with clearance for a narrower 29'er MTB tire, kind of like a Surly Cross Check (I have one). Will be used for trips mixing on-road, dirt road, and singletrack (2 sets of tires). The Pugsley is similar but not really suited to road riding and a bit too burley, 4130 and all. The fork is close to what I have in mind, minus the disc tabs and weight. I've thought about 135mm hubs but I'm not too sure what I gain there, I might do 132.5mm spacing so I can go either way. I figure if I can build zero offset wheels with standard parts then that's the best of both. I thought about using disks but the only ones that work with road levers are Avid's as far as I know and the pads on those wear very quickly. No one seems to be able to explain why, but they seem to wear 2-3 times as fast as hydro disks. I'm also concerned about finding parts for them, and there are only a couple 130mm disk hubs if you want to go that way. Not too crazy about v-brakes or cantis either as far as parts go, things are so unstandardized now... Drivetrain will most likely end up being a shimano road group, mainly for parts availability. The MTB stuff varies too much. I wish Shimano 9 speed road stuff was still widely available. I really would like to stick to one wheel so that if a wheel gets completely destroyed then a trailer wheel can be fitted and that trailer gets carried on the other one. The trailers will either be Extrawheel trailers or custom.

I've got some eggbeaters around here somewhere, I'll have to check them out and see how they are to service. The problem I have with ATAC's are that the bearings get loose in the composite body and then there is nothing you can do, the aluminum ones seem to do better.

keep the ideas coming!
 

·
passive/aggressive
Joined
·
236 Posts
Some more ideas

Jim Thorpe Cycling Center said:
Thanks for the suggestions so far. Here's some clarification on the frame design: "monstercross" style steel frame, most likely built by IF, cross bike like geometry with clearance for a narrower 29'er MTB tire, kind of like a Surly Cross Check (I have one). Will be used for trips mixing on-road, dirt road, and singletrack (2 sets of tires). The Pugsley is similar but not really suited to road riding and a bit too burley, 4130 and all. The fork is close to what I have in mind, minus the disc tabs and weight. I've thought about 135mm hubs but I'm not too sure what I gain there, I might do 132.5mm spacing so I can go either way. I figure if I can build zero offset wheels with standard parts then that's the best of both. I thought about using disks but the only ones that work with road levers are Avid's as far as I know and the pads on those wear very quickly. No one seems to be able to explain why, but they seem to wear 2-3 times as fast as hydro disks. I'm also concerned about finding parts for them, and there are only a couple 130mm disk hubs if you want to go that way. Not too crazy about v-brakes or cantis either as far as parts go, things are so unstandardized now... Drivetrain will most likely end up being a shimano road group, mainly for parts availability. The MTB stuff varies too much. I wish Shimano 9 speed road stuff was still widely available. I really would like to stick to one wheel so that if a wheel gets completely destroyed then a trailer wheel can be fitted and that trailer gets carried on the other one. The trailers will either be Extrawheel trailers or custom.

I've got some eggbeaters around here somewhere, I'll have to check them out and see how they are to service. The problem I have with ATAC's are that the bearings get loose in the composite body and then there is nothing you can do, the aluminum ones seem to do better.

keep the ideas coming!
I have been using eggbeaters for quite awhile now on both my mountain bikes and my road bike. They make great commuting pedals as you can wear your mountain bike shoes. They are light and compact so carrying an extra set is easy plus they are economical.

Why not 9spd bar cons? Easy to rebuild, friction settings I think and they have almost no moving parts vs. STI which would allow you to run the Cane Creek levers and use V-brakes without adapters or Cantilevers with mondo power or just regular road calipers.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top