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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, my search for vintage continues and I find myself cruising around town hitting garage and estate sales. I did come across this old add for a basso frameset with shimano 600 and dura ace headset. I can only give the link as I'm posting on my phone. Can anyone tell me anything about this... Model, tubing material, ride, worth $350? Spoke to the owner and he doest know much at all.

www.ksl.com/?nid=678&ad=11149582&cat=409&lpid=

I want vintage and I want to ride it. Will be doing lots of climbing and a couple of centuries in the fall. No racing, but i still want a great steel performer as i ride hard. Will this work for those purposes?

Also, any suggestions as to upgrades for weight savings etc welcomed.
 

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boleiro said:
Okay, my search for vintage continues and I find myself cruising around town hitting garage and estate sales. I did come across this old add for a basso frameset with shimano 600 and dura ace headset. I can only give the link as I'm posting on my phone. Can anyone tell me anything about this... Model, tubing material, ride, worth $350? Spoke to the owner and he doest know much at all.

www.ksl.com/?nid=678&ad=11149582&cat=409&lpid=

I want vintage and I want to ride it. Will be doing lots of climbing and a couple of centuries in the fall. No racing, but i still want a great steel performer as i ride hard. Will this work for those purposes?

Also, any suggestions as to upgrades for weight savings etc welcomed.
It really doesn't matter what they called it at the time but it looks to be made of SL, so I would say it is a mid 80's GAP.......and, yes, it looks to be well worth it if the frame is clean and without dings, dents and rust. The frame would go for at least that much alone.

One way to get a better handle on the year is whether the cable routing goes above or below the bottom bracket. If it is above, then it is an early 80's.......below it would be a later 80's. This would be a nice classic ride if you cleaned it up and a terrific restoration job, if you were so inclined.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info Raymonda. That all sounds great. Thanks for the tip. I will check the cable routing to get an idea of vintage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Got it! Paid $300. It is in great condition. Paint is great, fading a little on the forks, and the typical chipping on the chainstay. But, no rust. Full shimano 600 and a cinelli bar and stem. Shifting is smooth, but I'm going to need to remember how to work those downtube shifters. The wheelset is wolber super champion rims laced to maillard hubs. Rides amazing and I'm really surprised at how light it is. Expected way more heft. Need to find a scale. Can't wait to get a real ride with it. Wish it had more chrome... But it's a beautiful bike as is. Maybe I'll strip the fork and shine it up.

Thanks for the tips, made the purchase psychic pain free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'll get pics up tomorrow. Debating if I should keep the toe clips on or getting some clip Ins? It's a crazy gear ratio for me, 52/42 and a 14/20 rear.that will kill me in the mountains here in Utah. Easiest is to get a new cassette... 12/28? Never rode a 52/42 front before. Any suggestions on a better cassete for climbing? Would like to keep it simple as I would like to convert to campy in the future. Pics are coming...
 

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1. Don't strip the fork. Leave it as is.
2. Pedals are a personal thing, so change them if you want to.
3. It is probably a freewheel, not a cassette... finding one might be tough. You could throw a 39t ring on in place of the 42, and that would be OK.
4. if you're going to convert to Campy, are you thinking of keeping it period correct? If so, start looking for 1st generation C-Record or Chorus or Athena from the mid '80s. I have an '87 Gap w/ first generation Athena, and I like it a lot.
5. Congratulations! (that should have been #1!!)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I can deal with leaving the fork alone, but I have to get a more suitable gear ratio going in the back. So index to get a freewheel with a fixed cogset? I'll look around. If I can get that, I'll get a wheel built around a 7 speed hub. So more searching to do. Thanks FRPAX.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Here's some pics, best I can do with my old camera. No high res... but I am sure it is a freewheel. The number on the bottom of the BB is 404627. I read in one of these threads that the first digit signified the year of manufacturing? I am a little torn between keeping it classic with all nuovo record or going for some newer campy. I'd like to at the very least get some more gears going... definitely would like to get up to 8 speed (cold setting questions later). For now, I will most likely get a 39t ring and a new freewheel more geared towards climbing. I saw on Sheldon Brown they have shimano 7 speed freewheels. Might grab the 13-28. That should work on the mountains. Would love to get a compact crank going, but can you do that and stay period? Any and all suggestions and tips are welcome. Very excited to get this out for a ride.
 

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Well, I am always jelous when someone find a great bike like this for so cheap. The frame seems to be in excellent condition. It is a real beauty. This would go for between $750 and 1000 on a good day over at ebay.

I would keep it period correct. It looks to be around a 85 or so. This is a great bike to do a restore job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks raymondo. It's nice to finally be the one he gets that great find. I'll keep it period correct. I don't know the older components and the options within. Any suggestions on getting me to a 7 speed climbing gear ratio within the correct period componentry? If I get one of those threaded 7 speed freewheels (13-28) from sheldon brown, will I need anything else to integrate it on my bike?
 

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I would fiqure out the exact year and get period correct Campy Record.....The more I look at the frame, the more I'm thinking it is an early 80's possably 1980-1982. The pump peg is unusual and a sure indication that it is not newer than that, I'm guessing. It looks to be original paint. I've seen one other Basso the same color. Yours is in great shape.

Make it a project and slowly build it back up. BTW, Millard and Regina free wheels work well. Keep it a 6 speed and go with a 13-24 or 14-28 with a 52-42 in front. 52-42 was what was standard back then and through 1990 or so. You could also try a Shimano 6 speed, they still make them today, and it should work. I bet you will be surprised that 6 speeds in the rear works as well as 10, if you don't race. I doubt you bought this ride thinking about racing it.

I had s single speed with a 42-18, which I could take on some of my short not so hilly rides and almost felt that I didn't need any gears at all, until I hit a long steep climb, which I avoided on the SS.

Trust me, you will love it more as a restore project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Going complete Record will need to be a slow process, was looking at some of the period components on eBay and that stuff is crazy expensive. Like buying 11 speed chorus. But I would plan ti keep it classic. Riding it around today I was loving the down tube shitfers. It's a great feel. Reminds me of my first rides. Your right I'm not going to be racing. But I am planning to do some centuries and would still like a performance above the standard road bike. I will keep it 6 speed first. The freewheels are only 20 bucks on sheldon brown. Never serviced a freewheel. It it simply taking off my current and screwing on the new one?
 

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1. WOW! What a beauty!
2. Judging by the panel style logos & the serial #, I'm going with a 1984.
3. To change a freewheel, you need a chain whip and the appropriate tool. Unscrew it and screw another one on.
4. Chain rings are just chain rings; you can put whatever you want on there as long as the bolt circle diameter (BCD) matches. You can always put the originals back on for period correctness.
5. Classic steel rides REALLY well! Have fun with it!
6. What components are on there?
 
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