See this link for an explanation and diagrams of the standards http://problemsolversbike.com/files/tech/Bottom_Bracket_Standards_Reference.pdf
After searching the web, there has been much talk over the stiffness of these various standards.
BB30
The BB30 shell is a straight through bore with grooves for a retaining ring on each side. A bearing is pressed against the retaining ring. If the bore is completely machined through from one side, the concentricity (and axial alignment) of the installed bearings is as good as it could be.
PF30
PF30 uses nylon cups, which are pressed into the BB bore. Bearings are then pressed into the cups.
My first concern here is the tolerances on the nylon cups. If the cups are not molded/machined and inspected well enough, then the installed bearings will not have good axial alignment. Do you see that?
Nylon isn’t that stiff though… so maybe any minor molding/machining inaccuracies are alleviated though the compliance of the cups. This brings up my most important concern… How is a BB with nylon cups stiff? You don’t need to be an engineer and/or scientist to see this. Just visually wrap some soft stuff (a polymer such as nylon) around some bearings and you will see that the polymer absorbs some of the energy when you are out of the saddle, pushing down on the pedal. I can’t tell you how much energy is lost, as that would take some time for me to derive
It seems to me that PF30 was created to alleviate some creaking/noise issues. Or maybe it was created just to be different. Both are bad reasons to alleviate a relatively easy problem (noises). As anecdotal evidence, my Felt came with BB30 and I have never heard a creak. I do hear a squeal when the cranks are at a specific position every now and then, though. It doesn’t bother me too much.
BB86/92
The BB bore is now stepped. This means that the steps on each side of the bore are machined by different setups. In other words, in the first setup, the through bore is machined and the step on this side is made. Then the part (the BB shell) needs to be repositioned in a fixture to create the step on the other side. The runout between the two steps will not be as good as a machined completely straight through bore. Nylon cups are then pressed into the steps. Again the compliance in the cups will likely alleviate minor runout/alignment issues in the machining. My concern here once again is the nylon cups… nylon isn’t anywhere near as stiff as steel. Look up the modulus/stiffness of these 2 materials.
BB90/95
The BB shell is stepped once again. However, there are no cups. If you haven’t noticed, I’m not a fan of the cups J. The bearings are pressed into the “steps.” The steps need to have a good runout to create good alignment for the bearings.
386 EVO
Same idea as PF30, only the BB is wider. Spacing the bearings a little further apart will increase stiffness negligibly. The added benefit comes from being about to add more “frame” around the BB to increase stiffness. How much of that stiffness is lost in the nylon cups?
There are engineering advantages and disadvantages in every design. I could go into more detail but I feel like I am writing too much and likely boring you.
The manufactures have done their stiffness analyses and I’m sure they are comfortable with their decisions. I don’t have the time to do the same but I can assure you that PF30 is not as stiff as BB30. Maybe the difference is negligible in the real world but nonetheless, nylon is more compliant.
My top picks right now are BB30 and Trek’s BB90/95. Trek’s standard requires more QC/inspection due to the steps…. no biggie for a decent manufacturer.
Some people are worried about damaging the bore (shell) when removing/installing bearings. In a proper press-fit, the material is “moved out of the way.” When you remove the bearing, the bore will have the same dimension as it previously did. Damage only occurs when the bore and bearing are not the correct dimensions or when the bearing isn't aligned well when it is initially being pressed in. All you need is some care when installing the bearing and everything will be fine. Furthermore, how many times (realistically) is someone going to remove and install bearings on a frame? A couple? No sweat.
I love healthy discussions, so please comment and/or ask away. I have plenty of experience with bearings/materials and their properties, so feel free to ask.
After searching the web, there has been much talk over the stiffness of these various standards.
BB30
The BB30 shell is a straight through bore with grooves for a retaining ring on each side. A bearing is pressed against the retaining ring. If the bore is completely machined through from one side, the concentricity (and axial alignment) of the installed bearings is as good as it could be.
PF30
PF30 uses nylon cups, which are pressed into the BB bore. Bearings are then pressed into the cups.
My first concern here is the tolerances on the nylon cups. If the cups are not molded/machined and inspected well enough, then the installed bearings will not have good axial alignment. Do you see that?
Nylon isn’t that stiff though… so maybe any minor molding/machining inaccuracies are alleviated though the compliance of the cups. This brings up my most important concern… How is a BB with nylon cups stiff? You don’t need to be an engineer and/or scientist to see this. Just visually wrap some soft stuff (a polymer such as nylon) around some bearings and you will see that the polymer absorbs some of the energy when you are out of the saddle, pushing down on the pedal. I can’t tell you how much energy is lost, as that would take some time for me to derive
It seems to me that PF30 was created to alleviate some creaking/noise issues. Or maybe it was created just to be different. Both are bad reasons to alleviate a relatively easy problem (noises). As anecdotal evidence, my Felt came with BB30 and I have never heard a creak. I do hear a squeal when the cranks are at a specific position every now and then, though. It doesn’t bother me too much.
BB86/92
The BB bore is now stepped. This means that the steps on each side of the bore are machined by different setups. In other words, in the first setup, the through bore is machined and the step on this side is made. Then the part (the BB shell) needs to be repositioned in a fixture to create the step on the other side. The runout between the two steps will not be as good as a machined completely straight through bore. Nylon cups are then pressed into the steps. Again the compliance in the cups will likely alleviate minor runout/alignment issues in the machining. My concern here once again is the nylon cups… nylon isn’t anywhere near as stiff as steel. Look up the modulus/stiffness of these 2 materials.
BB90/95
The BB shell is stepped once again. However, there are no cups. If you haven’t noticed, I’m not a fan of the cups J. The bearings are pressed into the “steps.” The steps need to have a good runout to create good alignment for the bearings.
386 EVO
Same idea as PF30, only the BB is wider. Spacing the bearings a little further apart will increase stiffness negligibly. The added benefit comes from being about to add more “frame” around the BB to increase stiffness. How much of that stiffness is lost in the nylon cups?
There are engineering advantages and disadvantages in every design. I could go into more detail but I feel like I am writing too much and likely boring you.
The manufactures have done their stiffness analyses and I’m sure they are comfortable with their decisions. I don’t have the time to do the same but I can assure you that PF30 is not as stiff as BB30. Maybe the difference is negligible in the real world but nonetheless, nylon is more compliant.
My top picks right now are BB30 and Trek’s BB90/95. Trek’s standard requires more QC/inspection due to the steps…. no biggie for a decent manufacturer.
Some people are worried about damaging the bore (shell) when removing/installing bearings. In a proper press-fit, the material is “moved out of the way.” When you remove the bearing, the bore will have the same dimension as it previously did. Damage only occurs when the bore and bearing are not the correct dimensions or when the bearing isn't aligned well when it is initially being pressed in. All you need is some care when installing the bearing and everything will be fine. Furthermore, how many times (realistically) is someone going to remove and install bearings on a frame? A couple? No sweat.
I love healthy discussions, so please comment and/or ask away. I have plenty of experience with bearings/materials and their properties, so feel free to ask.