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Sorry to post another question so quickly...what do you all recommend for lubricant for all the relevant parts of a road bike? Back in the old days, we would just spray some WD-40 and not worry about it. I've got a little more invested in my bike these days and want to maintain it properly. Also, how often should the drivetrain be cleaned and re-lubed? Thanks for your help!
 

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o.k. I'll try to help.

Depends on riding conditions.

Wet lubes like Finish Line Cross Country, Phil Woods, or home brews last longer and I prefer them, especially for wet weather riding.

Dry lubes, like Pedro's or Boeshield are much cleaner but don't last as long. I'd use those in the desert where they'd pick up a lot less dirt.

Kerry Irons has, imho, the best concise statement on lubes and how to apply them. If you can't find it, maybe he'll post it again.

I use Bullshot oil which is not quite as long lasting or messy as Phil Woods, but pretty thick, or air-tool oil which is thinner, a little cleaner and almost as cheap as home brew.
 

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I remember the thread.

"To anyone who wants to disagree with Kerry Irons on this...really, why be so silly. THE MAN is to bikes what Bruce Lee was to the Green Hornet. Listen to him and do as he suggests or not, but he is right." - kpmc

LMAO....I'm almost done with my old FinishLine Lube so I'm going to use the home brew from today. Hopefully the home brew solves the gunk build up problem on my drivetrain.
 

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Flattery will get you everywhere :)

Assuming we're talking road riding, use the following technique for successful ProLink or homebrew lube (1 part motor oil to 3-4 parts odorless mineral spirits) application and use:

1 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag.
2 - drip on lube while pedaling (forward is better) so that the chain just starts to drip lube. Aim the lube between the side plates and between the bushings and the side plates.
3 - run through all the gears several times, front and back.
4 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag.
5 - repeat steps 2-4 if the chain was really dirty

If you do this every 300 miles or so (or when you get caught in the rain), you will not get any significant gunky buildup, and you won't have to clean the chain.

No lube is "perfect." A brite shiny chain that is clean to the touch but is well lubed and gives long mileage is still not possible. IMO, ProLink is the best compromise.
 

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finish line century wet lube

works the best. "dry lubes", such as pedros, white lightning, ect, do not penetrate and flake off the surface immediately.

as for cleaning, after every ride or two...do not use anything but the century wet to clean the chain. use of solvents will remove the penetrated lube and replace it with a coating unsuitable for use as chain lube.


Lipton said:
Sorry to post another question so quickly...what do you all recommend for lubricant for all the relevant parts of a road bike? Back in the old days, we would just spray some WD-40 and not worry about it. I've got a little more invested in my bike these days and want to maintain it properly. Also, how often should the drivetrain be cleaned and re-lubed? Thanks for your help!
 

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Hmmm

odeum said:
works the best. "dry lubes", such as pedros, white lightning, ect, do not penetrate and flake off the surface immediately.

as for cleaning, after every ride or two...do not use anything but the century wet to clean the chain. use of solvents will remove the penetrated lube and replace it with a coating unsuitable for use as chain lube.
By Finish Line Century "wet", I assume you mean Finish Line Cross Country "wet" lube. This is Finish Line's heaviest viscosity chain lube.

I disagree about using the lube to clean the chain in this instance. This lube is quite viscous and will not act like homebrew or ProLink. With those lubes you apply a little excessive amount and the carrier solution (mineral spirits) helps to flush out the dirt. With wet lubes, the chain will be dirtier to begin with and the lubes are not light enough to "flush" dirt out. Applying FL Cross Country lube to an already dirty chain will only serve to move the dirt inwards, exactly what one doesn't want! For wet lubes, I advocate being able to remove the chain and then wash it in diesel, naptha, biodegradable degreaser, etc, etc. Rinse well with water and dry. Then apply the wet lube VERY sparingly before putting the chain back on the bike.
 

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Back to the wet for me

rusa1586 said:
Depends on riding conditions.

Wet lubes like Finish Line Cross Country, Phil Woods, or home brews last longer and I prefer them, especially for wet weather riding.
I am back on the wet lube train as well, back to using Finish Line Cross Country. For the past 2 years I have been using ProLink and homebrew. I appreciate the relative cleanliness, but at the same time the drivetrain is more noisy than when I used wet lubes like Finish Line Cross Country or Pedros Road Rage. Also, I don't seem to get any better or worse chain life with them and I find that the homebrew/ProLink lubes require more frequent lubrication. Wet lubes are more messy, no doubt. Since I prefer to take my chain off to clean it, I do not view this as a drawback. I like that I can get 12-15 hours of riding between drivetrain cleaning and lubing with something like Finish Line Cross Country. Plus, if it is rainy the "wet" lube performs much better.

The most important thing is to never lube the chain with a wet lube unless it has been cleaned. Otherwise the lube plus the dirt is just creating a nice grinding compound.
 

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I used road rage for about 3-4 rides but it is what forced me to go with Pro Link . After a single 30-40 mile ride the chain would be solid black everywhere. Just too messy, and not much quieter. However, I am kind of getting sick of the noisy chain. I generally clean and relube after every 1-2 rides, so I may go back to a messy wet lube.
 
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