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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Picked up this Kestrel 4000 and the handle bar stem is froze, usually the fork has a hole in it I can spray some PB Blaster in to get to the bottom side of the wedge.

Im lost on this one, and dont wanne get to physical since its all carbon :D

 

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Since the wedge won't go down the bolt should come up.
With the bolt loose and proud of the stem squirt some lube in there and tap the bolt with a wood block or sumsuch. The bolt should drive the wedge free releasing the stem.
I never tried it on carbon but it works on steel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How would I get lube down the sides of the stem, assuming the wedge frees up?

thanks
 

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Just squirt some penetraiting fluid into the bolt hole, loosen the top nut on the head set and squirt some there too. Let it sit and soak till tomorrow sometime and then try and tap it free.
 

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The steerer is made from steel. At least, I think that's the material Kestrel used on its earliest forks.

After you soak the penetrating lube in there, tap lightly with a hammer before moving to a rubber mallet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Got the wedge free, but the stem wont budge, guess Ill keep soaking it?
 

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Stem prolly ain't been out since new and I'm sure the sweat drips right off the tip of the nose and onto the stem where it can do it's dasterdly deed.
A number of years ago I knew a young fellow that had his bike in a trainer over one winter, and his stem had to be cut out.
Once you get it apart remember to put a light film of grease on it before reassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
if i get it apart :(
 

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I ran into this recently with a friend's bike. Tried everything including knocking out the expander cone, hammering on the stem from all directions, leveraging the stem and fork to try and pry it loose, and soaking the bottom of the steerer tube with Shimano penetrating lube and letting it sit for almost a week.

Turns out I was using the wrong penetrating lubricant. Went to my LBS and they gave the bottom of the steerer tube a good shot of their penetrating lube. One day of soaking upside down and I was able to free the stem.

Long story short, find the strongest penetrating lube you can and let it soak in the bottom of the steerer tube for a day or two.
 

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It looks like a later DA7410 sealed bearing Headset and a non original Kestrel fork , what sort of stem is it ? My bet is that there isn't much of that seatpost in the frame though !!
 

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if stem is aluminum & fork steerer steel, try soaking with household ammonia to break the galvanic bond. it works well for stuck seatposts with galvanic corrosion
 

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I had a similar experience recently. Tried all the above mentioned remedies but none worked. Eventually had to cut the protruding part of the stem off and get a tool maker friend to mill out the rest.

He says the stem was well and truly frozen, virtually bonded to the steel. The stem was the very sexy Dura Ace kind and unfortunately the wedge bolt on these can't be fully unscrewed in order for the wedge to drop out. A bit of a bad design in my opinion, but I guess thats why we've moved on from quil stems nowadays.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
latman said:
It looks like a later DA7410 sealed bearing Headset and a non original Kestrel fork , what sort of stem is it ? My bet is that there isn't much of that seatpost in the frame though !!
Its a 600 headset, but the fork is off a 200 Kestrel, so it is a Kestrel fork, but not original.

I have been told the steer tube is AL as well, so it may be ammonia time? :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ah, well the stem is AL, so Ammonia still?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
SO I took out the stem bolt and poured some in there, and un screwwed the top of the head set and dripped some in there, how long should I wait before tappin it with a rubber mallet.

Remember, its likely the stem hasnt budged in 20+ years :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
that long, really?
 
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