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Big is relative
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If you're running 10, American Classic conversion cassettes are good. Good enough but not great. You can get 12-23 and 12-25. Wheels Manufacturing makes nine and ten speed conversion cassettes but they're pricier than AmClassic and not really different. I believe Miche makes one as well. If you're running 11 speed, you're probably SOL for the time being.
 

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Jtek Shiftmate.

Harris Cyclery has an article about which one goes with which combination of shifters, derailleur and cassette.

These work so well I'm building a bike from the ground up intending to use one: I'm putting disk brakes on it and AFAIK there are no Campy spec disk brake hubs so I have to use shimano hubs but I will not use shimano shifters / derailleurs.
 

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Militant commuter
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Depending on what kind of hub you're using, you might be able to replace the freehub body with something more appropriate to the task at hand. Of course, if it's an actual Shimano hub you're SOL, but Easton and Mavic and many other brands offer Campagnolo freehubs that bolt right onto the existing hub.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Awesome Mark thanks man! I have been looking at a new set of wheels and one of the wheels I am considering getting is the Dura ace 1380 as the pricing from CRC with shipping included is very good.
 

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Mark Kelly said:
Jtek Shiftmate.
I've heard good things about those and it is an elegant concept. If you are running 10 spd there are good reasons to not use Campy cassettes... they cost a lot, and they are wider which makes the dish worse... ie a weaker wheel. Campy "solved" this problem with their G3 lacing pattern, but any pattern that uses the same number of spokes on both sides will be weaker and less stiff than an equivalent wheel designed for a Shimano/Sram cassette.
 

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JTEK shiftmate

I have Campy shifters, everything else Shimano and it works great.
They make different versions depending on what your setup is.
 

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Ya, what ATP said...!
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
QQUIKM3 said:
Ditch the Sh*tmano wheel and get some Campy Shamals.:thumbsup: Great wheelset for everything.

I have thought about the Shamals but I think proportionally they have more weight at the rims then my Nucleon's do. Rim weight and dimension is what finally led me to the 1380carbon/RS80 wheel and that rim in particular. It is 20.8mm wide and 23/24mm deep at 380g weight it has all the attributes that I have been looking for. I am even toying with the idea of getting a set of RS80's and having a wheelbuilder put on something like C-4 hubs and cxray spoke. Even going with the C-4 215/80 hubs the wheelset would come in somewhere below 1250g. That would be awesome and getting the wheels from CRC it should cost around $900-950 to get done. The other option is going with the RS80's with a Ultegra6700 cassette and the Jtek and that comes in at $558 with shipping. That wheelset is around 1521 though but I think the weight mostly is at the hub so I don't know how big of a deal it is. If anybody knows if it is possible to get just that rim somewhere and a set be cheaper then $453 that would be helpful

Also if anyone know the weight of the Nucleon/Neutron rim it would be much appreciated, I just asked AEbikes if they would be so kind to weigh one for me, I am really interested to see what they come in at. With a rim that is 20mm wide and 18mm deep they can't be that heavy so I maybe just fooling myself with the idea of a new and noticeably better wheelset. I don't know I got to be OCD about something:p
 

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I'm trying to install an M10 right now, and having some problems.
First off, I am kind of annoyed at the website that sold them to me, as they didn't specify which freebody they worked for, but probably my fault.

Now I'm trying to get the thing set up on a powertap hub (luckily I have both campy and shimano freebodies). And the cassette is too long for the freebody. The lockring will not engage the threads inside the freebody. I'm using the narrower spacers they give you.

What the heck can I do?

I thought the Mavic cassettes were a great idea at first, but now I'm not so sure.

Thanks for any help.

Dave
 

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either the freebody is too short, or the casette is too long. The spacing looks spot on compared to my other campy cassettes, so I am thinking it's the freebody. I have used american classic adapter cassettes before, that worked. Just wondering if something funky is going on with the Mavic cassette. There is definitly about half a centimeter of outsticking freebody on my shimano versus Campy freebody. I am guessing the Shimano cassette is skinnier?

I might try it on another shimano wheel and see if it is just the powertap.

It has been a very frustrating unfun day of bike maintenance at my house! Also had a new mtn. bike tire that won't seat tubeless, and a SS freewheel that won't come off.
 

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If you put a conversion cassette in a shimano wheel the cassette will be too long and you will need a longer neck lockring. Usually the lockring is included when u get the cassette, the other thing is that it needs to be a shimano 10 or it wont fit anyways.

The cheapest way to fix a problem like this if you have a shimano 9/10 wheel moving around is to get a conversion cassette like the AmClass one or get a new set of hubs and re lace (miche ones are cheap and good) or get a used wheel at CL.
 

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Well this was a shimano 10 (have used DA on it before) and I did not get a longer lockring, but that seems like it would fix the problem, although the 12 ring would still not be engaged on the splines of the freebody.

I have had the American Classic cassette, it was so/so.

The Mavic is "supposed" to be the same type of conversion casette.

Thanks for the thoughts
 
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