[tinball]

This is my first time working with integrated handlebars. It’s a frickin’ nightmare and I haven’t even gotten to the hydraulic lines yet.

I have re-pulled the di2 wires at least 8 times trying to make it work. There’s no way the wireless unit let alone a cable junction is going to fit in the stem or bars. I believe I’m going to need to get longer wires and stuff the wireless unit in the left bar end and the junction A in the right….

CX Wrench and other mechs, I have an even greater appreciation for your skills and knowledge than ever before….

 

[tinball]

Haha. TLG, It's not that complicated but it kinda is.

Duriel - the wire sticking out was for the bar end junction that TLG showed.

I opted to move my Di2 11 speed to the new frame. The old Pinarello had the junction A in the downtube. I'm moving it to the the bar end. This frame has the integrated cockpit which is the root of the issue not that the Di2 wiring is in of itself complex. I was trying to make it work with my existing cables and I couldn't find any configuration that didn't involve buying more longer ones. The longest Y cable that Shimano makes is too short to connect both shifters and the junction A in the bar end. I ended up buying both 1m and 700mm cables to get it done - $75 extra I was hoping not to spend.

I wanted to keep the wireless junction in the bars for proximity to the head unit but that isn't happening right now - it's in the downtube. Now for about 5 hours I have been struggling pulling the hydraulic lines and have finally gotten them after removing all the Di2 wires first. Even then it was a struggle and I had to use a hex key to manipulate the lines to bend just enough to pull out the of the bars by the shifters.

A integrated cockpit now ranks in the "hopefully never again" for me. I felt like I needed 4 more hands just to deal with the Di2 wires and brake lines in the notches of the headset compression ring while still keeping the fork in place.

 

[tinball]

I did not know that you could use the shifter as a junction box. Thanks for that tidbit. Classic RTFM failure on my part. I knew there was a second plug but I thought it was just for satellite/remote shifters. I didn't come across an example of wiring that did show that as a possibility. I wish I had known that earlier since I probably could have used the wires I had on hand that way.

I actually managed to rework it with the y-cable and a longer extension cable with the wireless unit. Now it's just a possibility that the wireless unit may not come out of the handle bar as it's wedged a bit in the drop/curve. For clarification, From right to left: I have the Junction A, wire 1 runs through the bar/stem and out to the derailleurs/battery. The wire 2 (y cable) runs to the WU111 wireless unit, then to both shifters.

As CX alluded to, as with most things, the more you do it, the easier it becomes. It definitely was easier this last time as I've gotten used to manipulating the lines and wires internally and externally and using the cable puller tool. Still, it's slow, fiddly, and not "easy".

Major respect for you guys that do this every day.

 

[tinball]

For those of you who like Di2/equivalents--more power to ya. Tinball's frustrations are the main reason I stick with simpler, time-tested components like mechanical shifting and rim brakes on my road bike: cheap to purchase, easy to install/repair, and proven to work for decades upon decades. As with everything, the more complicated/complex something is, the more that can go wrong. Not trying to start any trouble, just an observation.

Di2 actually isn't complicated. My frustration was from lack of knowledge and inexperience. Compared to wired shifting it's much easier to get get and keep great shifting. No bulky housing and wires to deal with. No wires to periodically replace or worry about breaking. Shifting doesn't go out unless you physically do something to the derailleurs.

I was unsure about Di2 until I got it. I wouldn't go back given the choice. I have the wireless unit so I have it paired to my Garmin and can easily monitor my battery level. If I had to guess, putting in 4-5 rides per week in season, I get about a month or just a bit less per charge but I generally don't like letting it get below 35% before charging. So it's no big deal in my opinion.

Disc brakes, I'll concede that I feel rim brakes are easier from a maintenance and adjustment standpoint. Stopping power and effort to stop goes in favor of discs however.

This build has been a learning curve for me from a few things. I have never actually had to run hydraulic lines so I was a bit nervous. But it wasn't all that bad except getting some experience on running the cables through the handle bar. Then getting the bars, fork, headset, and frame together with the lines. Difficult at first because of the lack of experience but was able to get it done.

Anyway thanks everyone in this thread for the feedback. Finally got the bike together. I had it checked out by the LBS just in case and got the all good on the build.

Here's the bike right before the first ride after work this week.

 

[tinball]

Since I moved the groupset from my Pinarello Prince, I guess I had to bleed them. I purchased a new line for the rear brake and re-used the old line from the rear brake for the front. Then had to put new fluid and adjust. Not different really from normal service bleeding other than just adding alot of fluid. I have never installed new hydraulic lines so I was a bit apprehensive about it but I was surprised at how easy and straight forward it was.