I remember Kristin Armstrong's husband Joe telling me that they really like the the Vittoria graphene Corsa tires but when they tested in the wind tunnel they found the tires were 'slow' at some yaw angles because of the tread pattern. We used them on her road bikes but used different tires for the TT bike.
Bike Myths We Wish Would Die
I'll go first:
1) Bike tires need to have directional treads to prevent hydroplaning.
2) When building a wheel, the greater the spoke tension, the stronger and stiffer the wheel.
3) A stiffer rim will give you a stiffer wheel.
4) Bicycle wheels need to be balanced to within precise limits, less than the weight of valves.
5) Rotational mass will slow you down much more than static mass.
6) Aluminum doesn't corrode.
7) Carbon fiber is more prone to catastrophic failure than other materials.
1) Bike tires need to have directional treads to prevent hydroplaning.
2) When building a wheel, the greater the spoke tension, the stronger and stiffer the wheel.
3) A stiffer rim will give you a stiffer wheel.
4) Bicycle wheels need to be balanced to within precise limits, less than the weight of valves.
5) Rotational mass will slow you down much more than static mass.
6) Aluminum doesn't corrode.
7) Carbon fiber is more prone to catastrophic failure than other materials.
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It obviously depends on what type of stiffness you're talking about. If it's lateral then yes, more tension will keep the rim from moving side to side as much. Most people use 'stiffness' as a descriptor of vertical compliance or flex and that really won't change.I agree with all except maybe number 2. Years ago, when I first started building wheels, I assumed greater tension would make a stiffer wheel, but I was informed by others it would not, and even Jobst Brandts' book stuff it would not.
Then, recently, I had an employee ask me to tighten the tension on his rear wheel on his mountain bike because it wasn't stiff enough and was flexing enough to rub the chainstay under hard cornering. I checked the wheel, and it was already at decent tension (like over 100 kgf), and told him adding tension wouldn't help the issue, but I added tension, anyway, up to close to 120 kgf. Well, that did indeed make the wheel stiffer such that it didn't flex enough for the tire to rub the stay.
So unless someone can explain that better, I'm now under the opinion that more tension CAN make a stiffer wheel, since actual experience has proven it.
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I never do. You can't change it if the DS is at the specified tension and the rim is centered.Are you saying you increased the DS tension from 100 to 120kgF? If your DS was only 100kgF, then more than likely your NDS tension was not sufficient - especially on an 11-speed freehub. Always check NDS tensions. Anything 50kgF or above on the NDS is sufficient.
Oh, I dunno...the Open Pro has always been a pretty solid rim. I've probably built a least a couple hundred pair w/ Shimano Ultegra and Dura Ace hubs. 32 hole, 293/295 rear, 295 front, 3x.
First I said I have built...mostly in the past. 9 & 10 speed wheels mostly. That said I think the max is probably 110-120, I think I built them to around 110-115.IIRC, the Open Pro has a max tension of 90kgF? How can you possibly get enough tension on the NDS with DS tensions of only 90 or even 100 on a wheel with an 11-speed freehub?
1 - 4 of 59 Posts
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