The emphasis was on directional treads and hydroplaning. Directional treads don't prevent hydroplaning because bikes don't hydroplane.
Bike Myths We Wish Would Die
I'll go first:
1) Bike tires need to have directional treads to prevent hydroplaning.
2) When building a wheel, the greater the spoke tension, the stronger and stiffer the wheel.
3) A stiffer rim will give you a stiffer wheel.
4) Bicycle wheels need to be balanced to within precise limits, less than the weight of valves.
5) Rotational mass will slow you down much more than static mass.
6) Aluminum doesn't corrode.
7) Carbon fiber is more prone to catastrophic failure than other materials.
1) Bike tires need to have directional treads to prevent hydroplaning.
2) When building a wheel, the greater the spoke tension, the stronger and stiffer the wheel.
3) A stiffer rim will give you a stiffer wheel.
4) Bicycle wheels need to be balanced to within precise limits, less than the weight of valves.
5) Rotational mass will slow you down much more than static mass.
6) Aluminum doesn't corrode.
7) Carbon fiber is more prone to catastrophic failure than other materials.
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Well it looks like our friend Low Rider got the lead boot and his thread was closed:Previously I thought that #15 should have been 1st, but now I realize that this should should be The One True #1.
You all would benefit from a lower top tube you just...
this way too small mtb with a high riser stem results in much more unobstructed leg movement. I’m getting a custom road/gravel frame made (in titanium) that’s similar with a highly sloping top tube and short headtube. why do road bikes even have a high top tube and mountain bikes show they can...
www.roadbikereview.com
Which is too bad because I was enjoying the laughs.
And this is a myth? I thought this was reality.19. Returning banned trolls always return to what got them banned in the first pace.
So @Coolhand , can you tell us which past troll it was who resurrected himself as Low Rider?
Rudge66? Low Rider's style was very similar!Likely someone who wanted a g-rudge match... ?
Are you saying you increased the DS tension from 100 to 120kgF? If your DS was only 100kgF, then more than likely your NDS tension was not sufficient - especially on an 11-speed freehub. Always check NDS tensions. Anything 50kgF or above on the NDS is sufficient.I agree with all except maybe number 2. Years ago, when I first started building wheels, I assumed greater tension would make a stiffer wheel, but I was informed by others it would not, and even Jobst Brandts' book stuff it would not.
Then, recently, I had an employee ask me to tighten the tension on his rear wheel on his mountain bike because it wasn't stiff enough and was flexing enough to rub the chainstay under hard cornering. I checked the wheel, and it was already at decent tension (like over 100 kgf), and told him adding tension wouldn't help the issue, but I added tension, anyway, up to close to 120 kgf. Well, that did indeed make the wheel stiffer such that it didn't flex enough for the tire to rub the stay.
So unless someone can explain that better, I'm now under the opinion that more tension CAN make a stiffer wheel, since actual experience has proven it.
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A good quality rim can handle 120-130kgF of tension. That will land you around 55kgF on the NDS for an 11-speed freehub. And yes, I equalize in favor of the NDS to make sure there are no "slackers".It obviously depends on what type of stiffness you're talking about. If it's lateral then yes, more tension will keep the rim from moving side to side as much. Most people use 'stiffness' as a descriptor of vertical compliance or flex and that really won't change.
I never do. You can't change it if the DS is at the specified tension and the rim is centered.
The only rims I know of that aren't rated for at least 120kgF are Mavic which I wouldn't touch with a ten foot pole anyway.
IIRC, the Open Pro has a max tension of 90kgF? How can you possibly get enough tension on the NDS with DS tensions of only 90 or even 100 on a wheel with an 11-speed freehub?Oh, I dunno...the Open Pro has always been a pretty solid rim. I've probably built a least a couple hundred pair w/ Shimano Ultegra and Dura Ace hubs. 32 hole, 293/295 rear, 295 front, 3x.
OK, on an 8-9-10 speed freehub, that changes the story as the tension disparity is less. Not sure where I saw the 90kgF spec on the Open Pro. Maybe on the newer one? Apparently you've built enough of these with good results. There are reports of spoke hole cracks, but those may have been low spoke count builds which I'm not a fan of anyway.First I said I have built...mostly in the past. 9 & 10 speed wheels mostly. That said I think the max is probably 110-120, I think I built them to around 110-115.
Welcome!That a newb should understand a fraction of this stuff. The thread is a learning experience though. Glad to be here, joined today.
Bikes don't hydroplane for two reasons:please explain why bikes don't hydroplane
1) They don't have a large enough contact patch to hydroplane.
2) They don't go fast enough to hydroplane.
Not the same thing. IOW, directional tires that are designed to channel water away from the center won't make a difference like they do with cars.They skid instead.
Of course. But that's still not hydroplaning.I meant skid on wet pavement more than dry pavement.
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