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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, my KMC chain broke on Saturday and I was very lucky that one of my riding buddies had a chain tool because I didn't.

Upon inspection, I could see that it broke at the universal link. I couldn't find the other half of the link and so I had to break the chain and reconnect it the old school way by pushing a pin 90% out of the link and then reconnecting.

First question - do most modern chains with a universal link advise against reconnecting the chain that way? I'm going to ditch that chain anyway but wanted to know if it was generally not advisable to do that.

Second question - I don't know why it would have broken. It was only on the bike about 3 weeks and so was quite new. The only thing that I can think of was that I rode it for a few weeks with a big chainring that needed to be replaced. I didn't realize that the chain had been skipping on the big chainring until I finally isolated the problem and then once I put a new big ring on, problem solved. But, I'm wondering if the torque of having the chain skip in the big ring and go flying off the bad (older big ring) might have bent/damaged the chain. I did notice that the chain would sometimes get hung up when I was shifting to the big ring (on the new big ring) and I thought that was strange but it only happened on maybe one out of every 20-30 shifts to the big ring. I'm wondering of the master link was bent all that time and was getting progressively worse when it would hang up on the shift. Anyway, things like broken chains make me nervous since it could be a bad accident if it breaks under out of the saddle efforts.
 

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i think in general you do not want to be breaking and reassembling a chain the "old school" way...it weakens the chain and it is just never the same from my experience

hard to say why it happened...i have only had a chain fail after i have used the above method for removal on older chains without the connector link. I have had connector links bending but that usually ends in the connector link being stuck in place and actually wont come apart..kind of the opposite problem you had. good luck
 

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info..

All modern 10 speed chains and most 9 speed models are fluch pin designs that cannot be joined by the old fashioned method. Either special joining pin or master links are always needed.

Now that you have rejoined the chain the old fashioned way, that chain should be trashed.

Can't say why the masterlink failed, but the chainring problem may have been the cause. Some sort of slipping off or other shifting mishap that puts a big side load on a chain is a common cause of failure.
 

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a slight change of topic...

I've always wondered if chain that use a masterlink are inherently less reliable then a chain joined with a non-removable pin. I have never had a chain fail of either type (knock on wood) but the typical masterlink seems less beefy to me than a standard link and has more ways to fail
 

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I use Shimano 9 and 10-Speed Chains.
I think you should use the 'special pins' when reconnecting/shortening a Shimano Chain.
I personally do not like using the 'special pins', so I use SRAM PowerLinks to connect the chain ends.
I have never had a Shimano Chain, or a SRAM PowerLink fail.:thumbsup:
Probably just lucky!:D
John
 

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Define broken

ridewt said:
So, my KMC chain broke on Saturday and I was very lucky that one of my riding buddies had a chain tool because I didn't.

Upon inspection, I could see that it broke at the universal link. I couldn't find the other half of the link and so I had to break the chain and reconnect it the old school way by pushing a pin 90% out of the link and then reconnecting.
It's not clear from your description whether the link broke or just came apart. In this I assume that by "universal link" you mean one of the connecting links rather than a special assembly link. If it was a connecting link (like Wipperman, etc.) then it could have been an installation error.
 

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It could be the KMC chain. I had one on my road bike and I saw 2 seperate cracked links past summer. Cracks were middle of each link and not at connection points. It was relatively new chain with less than 500miles.

I put thousands of miles on DA 7800 chain before it was too old to use(all stretched out and loose around links).I never had a cracked a link on DA 7800. I did have a failure but fixed it old fashion way on the road and used it for long time after.

I used to break a lot hollow pin expensive chains even new ones on my MTB. After switching to cheaper chains that problem went away. Weight savings of 20 or so grams was not worth it on the MTB.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Epilogue - another broken chain

So, I originally started this post with my tale of woe about the broken chain. I now have a new chain on the bike. But, I did ride the "fixed" chain for a few days and then it, too, broke. When I had joined it the old school way with a pin, I tried to be very careful to have the pin be placed equidistant in the link. But, I think that just goes to show that it is never a good idea to "fix" a modern chain by pushing a pin out and then re-inserting it. Luckily, the second time it broke, I was seated and had decided it was prudent to carry a chain tool. Lesson learned.
 
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