I think that considering anything other than brass nipples on a touring wheel is nuts. Likewise something with a lightweight rim like a 1.1. You say you're going to mount panniers on this bike. With these wheels, you'd have to ride with empty panniers. Have some solid wheels built, preferably with a super strong rim like a Velocity DeepV. With a touring bike, pushing the wheel weight envelope in any way is just not wise.kroettger1 said:http://www.competitivecyclist.com/r...d--soldered-pavé-wheelset-4962_266_FALSE.html
How about these competitive cyclists wheels? I like everything about them except the brass nipples.
What do you guys think?
If you are talking about the Roval Pave wheels, no shimmy. I have several 35 mph and one 40 mph descents on my commute.bergjm said:bigbill,
When descending at high speeds, have you ever experienced shimmying with these wheels?
I know many things can cause a shimmy, including rider error, but I never had a shimmy issue until I got these wheels, and I am beginning to think that they are the cause of it. It only happens once in a while and only at speeds above about 30mph. One thing I want to do is measure the rake with the front wheel compared to my old front wheel.
bigbill said:If you are talking about the Roval Pave wheels, no shimmy. I have several 35 mph and one 40 mph descents on my commute.
One thing to check, with the Specialized QR, I have to make sure the wheel is squarely in the dropout and clamped down tight. Grab the front wheel while holding the fork and see how much side to side play you get. It might just be a undertightened QR. The Specialized QR is the only one that has ever given me this problem.