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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am building a Indy Fabrication Club Racer - campy equipped. The bike will be used for commuting & touring. Planning on front/rear racks & panniers and full fendors.

Wheel recommendations? Custom built the only option?
 

· trying to HTFU...
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will you be using a battery powered light or dynamo?
if you're making the commitment to commuting, batteries
even rechargables can get heavy and expensive over the
long term.

look at peterwhitecycles and read about the Schmidt
dynamo hubs. he has many rims available and seems
like he can build anything, including disk hubs and fenders
on 700c or 26"/559(or 20" if you've got a recumbent.)

i'm building up my ancient trek 7000 for commuting and
may end up with the Schmidt SON 28 and Inolight 10+.
by the looks of it they should be bullet-proof and last forever,
plus i'll get light as soon as the bike starts rolling. i'll keep
my trinewt for backup or helmet mounted.
 

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You're kidding, right?

kroettger1 said:
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/r...d--soldered-pavé-wheelset-4962_266_FALSE.html

How about these competitive cyclists wheels? I like everything about them except the brass nipples.

What do you guys think?
I think that considering anything other than brass nipples on a touring wheel is nuts. Likewise something with a lightweight rim like a 1.1. You say you're going to mount panniers on this bike. With these wheels, you'd have to ride with empty panniers. Have some solid wheels built, preferably with a super strong rim like a Velocity DeepV. With a touring bike, pushing the wheel weight envelope in any way is just not wise.
 

· Big is relative
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A group hubset like Record or something shimaNo with CPX33 or Velocity Deep V rims with DT spokes and brass nipples.

I also recommend Specialized Roval Pave' wheels. They retail for $425 and are bombproof. I have been commuting on a set for around 2 years and the rims are starting to show some rim but they have remained true and smooth spinning. Run at least 25mm tires, it will make a big difference in the life of your wheels.

When you are commuting, you shouldn't have to think about your wheels or your bike.
 

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bigbill,

When descending at high speeds, have you ever experienced shimmying with these wheels?

I know many things can cause a shimmy, including rider error, but I never had a shimmy issue until I got these wheels, and I am beginning to think that they are the cause of it. It only happens once in a while and only at speeds above about 30mph. One thing I want to do is measure the rake with the front wheel compared to my old front wheel.

Thanks.

John B.
 

· Big is relative
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bergjm said:
bigbill,

When descending at high speeds, have you ever experienced shimmying with these wheels?

I know many things can cause a shimmy, including rider error, but I never had a shimmy issue until I got these wheels, and I am beginning to think that they are the cause of it. It only happens once in a while and only at speeds above about 30mph. One thing I want to do is measure the rake with the front wheel compared to my old front wheel.

Thanks.

John B.
If you are talking about the Roval Pave wheels, no shimmy. I have several 35 mph and one 40 mph descents on my commute.

One thing to check, with the Specialized QR, I have to make sure the wheel is squarely in the dropout and clamped down tight. Grab the front wheel while holding the fork and see how much side to side play you get. It might just be a undertightened QR. The Specialized QR is the only one that has ever given me this problem.
 

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Yes, I was talking about the Roval Pave wheels (sorry I didn't specify). I will check the quick releases again to make sure they are tight.

Thanks for the feedback.

bigbill said:
If you are talking about the Roval Pave wheels, no shimmy. I have several 35 mph and one 40 mph descents on my commute.

One thing to check, with the Specialized QR, I have to make sure the wheel is squarely in the dropout and clamped down tight. Grab the front wheel while holding the fork and see how much side to side play you get. It might just be a undertightened QR. The Specialized QR is the only one that has ever given me this problem.
 

· monkey with flamethrower
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Its pretty much impossible to match the durability of a custom built wheel by a skilled builder. Most factory wheels use proprietary spokes, hub parts and rims that can make servicing them and replacing a pain in the ass.
For your application a nice custom built wheel is your only option.
My personal recommendation would be either a Velocity Dyad or Deep V or perhaps a DT TK 7.1 rim. Touring with weight on your bike puts a lot of stress on wheels. A Record hub would probably suffice, though if you are looking to haul a lot of weight on your racks I would strongly consider something a bit beefier like a Phil Wood but you would have to use a conversion cassette. 36 hole in the rear, 32 up front with brass nipples in a three cross pattern. Brass is much stronger than aluminum and will serve a commuter bike far better than aluminum. Speaking of brass, I love using brass washers at the spoke heads, adds some weight but just about eliminates and breakages at the head of the spoke. Something like a DT competition spoke will work fine unless you want to have bladed spokes for an extra sexy commuter wheel.
Built with Record hubs something like what I described will weigh in around 1900 grams and will be indestructible.
 
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