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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Black 28 hole Formula hubs

Black IRD Candence Niobium rims

14-15-14 Wheelsmith stainless spokes

Green alloy nipples

Rear - 2X
Front - Radial


I used Sheldon Brown's wheel building page as a guide- but probably not as much as I should have. Once I had the rear wheel laced and I was starting to bring things up to tension, I noticed that the spokes went to each side of the hub in pairs rather than every-other. I pulled out all the spokes on the freewheel side (flip-flop hub), and moved one spoke from each pair on the fixed side over one hole. I laced up the freewheel side. Done! Nope. Turns out I didn't pay enough attention when I moved the spokes on the fixed side- the right flange spokes were going to the left drilled holes. I cooled off for 2 or 3 hours trying to convince myself it really didn't matter (how much can 1 millimeter really change things?) I decided to make the switch but had a genius idea first: I wrapped a piece of tape around each of the crosses, then removed all of the nipples. All I had to do was flip the whole mess over and reinstall the nipples, right? Wrong! It didn't change a thing! (Idiot!) Well, I could have made it work, but the valve stem wouldn't have been in the right place any more. I removed all of the tape, put every thing back in neat little piles, and started over. Having already made every possible mistake, I got the whole wheel built and trued in about two hours. The radially laced front wheel went together even faster.

Question: How round do I need to get them? Getting them true and centered was easy, but they are still not exactly round. The difference between the high and low areas is about 1 millimeter or less.

I have been trying to load photos, but that feature seems to down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Here are some gif's.
 
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