[johndengler]

I'm going to re-cable my surly cross check, mainly to add an inline tension adjuster.
And I'm wondering if there is any difference or if anyone has used both and can comment on the difference between Dura-Ace Cables and the regular shimano cables

VS.

 

[Spoke Wrench]

How good can they be?

I've used generic QBP slick galvanized cables for as long as I can remember. If I didn't solder the ends I'd probably spend the extra money for stainless steel. They shift flawlessly and, if I ever kink one, they're cheap to replace. That's everything that a cable is supposed to do. If a cheap generic cable does everything that it's supposed to, what does spending the extra money buy you?

 

[rogger]

The Dura-Ace cables are pre lubed and have better protection against gunking up at the ferrules. Cables are not that expensive so I always splash out on the DA's, what's the point of getting cheap on $20 items anyway.

 

[Friction_Shifter]

$20 - $10= $10 = 12 pack of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale on sale?

some people are on more of a budget than others.

I have only used el cheapo and a set of campy derailler cables. The campy's are more supple. I do think the campy's perform minisculy better (insignificant)but they look less cheap and thats good enough for me. They are terminated better too.

 

[johndengler]

So, the only difference is the DuraAce cables are pre-lubed and the other shimano cables are not?

Also, what is everyone's opinion on lubing cables?
Sheldon Brown and Zinn say don't do it. Lot's of people on the boards say do, who is right?

 

[Mersault]

So, the only difference is the DuraAce cables are pre-lubed and the other shimano cables are not?

Also, what is everyone's opinion on lubing cables?
Sheldon Brown and Zinn say don't do it. Lot's of people on the boards say do, who is
right?

I take the lube(grease) out of the DA housing with some WD 40 to clean it out. I've gone years without touching them, and they shift well without any lube. your results may vary.

I'm going to mention that the DA housing are 4mm housing and I think those black shimano ones are 5mm. I mention that because I once got some of that black housing, and it was stiffer than the 4mm and on my bike (road bike), the housing loop by the rear derailer didn't shift well with the 5mm housing. I used the same length of housing that I had used with the 4mm housing. I may have been able to get to shift properly with a longer loop, but I just went back to the 4mm housing.

 

[MShaw]

I second the motion for the QBP slick cables. Much less friction (as determined by me rubbing it thru my fingers) and much less $$.

Been running them since the mid-90s when my shop mechanic ordered them instead of Shimano's.

'Course I always recycle the rears to the fronts so I only hafta buy one at a time...

M