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I have 5 or 6 Campy UT cranks on various bikes. 99% sure I have my first bad bearing. Terrible squeaky noise only when pedaling. The more force the worse it is (climbing). Nothing coasting and don't think it is the pedal(s).

None of the bikes have had them replaced. Looks like a fairly straight forward procedure if you have the right tools. Should I invest in the tools or farm this one out to my LBS?

If going Park do I need both the CBP-3 and CBP-5? Any better/cheaper options out there.

Would any non-bike specific tool work - like a standard puller? Any tricks to know ahead of time?

I've got 10s and 11s UT cranks. Do they all use the same removal/installation tool? Are the bearings the same? I'm guessing so since I'm pretty sure I have swapped some of the cranks between different bikes all with the same BBs. However, I see on ebay bearing sets listed specifically as 2007 and they look different from the ones with no dates in the adds.

Many thanks for any and all help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Never mind about the CBP-5 part above. I just saw that it is for Power Torque not UT. I should read closer before posting.

Carry on....
 

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Check the bearings by removing the cranks and turning the bearings in your hand.

I have the Park set and I'd reccomend you buy it.

The puller needs very skinny jaws, and the Park puller holds them in place also.

Remember that the DS bearing is held in place by a circlip that has to be removed first.
 

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I am still in the world of square taper Campy so not much specific help from me but I will say if you have multiple bikes with this set up and you like doing the work, then buy the tools.
 

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I bought a used UT crank last year. One of the bearings was a little rough so I tried to pull it with DIY tools. I bought a puller and ground down the arms so it would grip under the bearing - but you also need some way of keeping the arms from spreading apart and losing grip - this is what the park tool is designed to do.

I ended up cleaning and re-greasing the bearing while it was still attached to the spindle. Not optimal, but it made is smooth and silent and about 1000 miles later still seems to be good (haven't removed the crank to check closely though).

My next step is to try to work out some sort of strap or something to hold the arms.

I love to buy special purpose tools when needed, but I'm having a hard time justifying $60 for a tool I might use every 10 years (this is a second or third road bike for me, and probably gets only a few hundred miles per year). I dont' even know if the local shops have the tool, none of them sells Campy, but I'll probably call around and check.
 

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The Park tools are straight forward. There's a snap ring on the drive side one, either get a biggish pair of snap ring pliers or get really lucky with two small screwdrivers. I get the steel bearings for around $35 and it takes about half an hour to swap them out. Don't forget to put grease in the cups before reassembly and don't forget the wavy washer on the non-drive side.
 

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Bought the Park tool and spare bearings years ago, but I've been re-greasing the bearings every year on the axles without removing them on all my UT cranks (I have quite a few), and so far in 10 years... never had to replace one. But at least I'm prepared...
 

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The Park tools are straight forward. There's a snap ring on the drive side one, either get a biggish pair of snap ring pliers or get really lucky with two small screwdrivers. I get the steel bearings for around $35 and it takes about half an hour to swap them out. Don't forget to put grease in the cups before reassembly and don't forget the wavy washer on the non-drive side.
Bigbill - can you give a source and spec for those bearings, or did you just buy Campy branded? I haven't looked for a year or so, but as I recall, there are generic alternatives if you know the right specs.

Bought the Park tool and spare bearings years ago, but I've been re-greasing the bearings every year on the axles without removing them on all my UT cranks (I have quite a few), and so far in 10 years... never had to replace one. But at least I'm prepared...
DrSmile: Can you share your technique? I didn't have a needle-type grease gun so I just warmed up a little quantity of my normal grease to make it thinner and just kind of manually worked it into the bearing. Seemed to work, but I'd be interested in an easier or more effective way. Now that I've put close to 1,000 miles on the UT crank, I think I want to take it apart and look at and feel the bearings, maybe re-grease them.

I'm just itching to buy a new tool (the bearing puller), just to put things in perspective, but i really think it might be one I never use!
 

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Bigbill - can you give a source and spec for those bearings, or did you just buy Campy branded? I haven't looked for a year or so, but as I recall, there are generic alternatives if you know the right specs.



DrSmile: Can you share your technique? I didn't have a needle-type grease gun so I just warmed up a little quantity of my normal grease to make it thinner and just kind of manually worked it into the bearing. Seemed to work, but I'd be interested in an easier or more effective way. Now that I've put close to 1,000 miles on the UT crank, I think I want to take it apart and look at and feel the bearings, maybe re-grease them.

I'm just itching to buy a new tool (the bearing puller), just to put things in perspective, but i really think it might be one I never use!
I don't know why you'd go with anything but campy bearings. I get mine through Universal Cycles, regular steel UT bearings (Chorus level). I've never had any luck with greasing an existing bearing, if I feel any roughness at all, I replace it.

I bought my first 11 speed stuff in the winter of 2008, Chorus drivetrain with a Record crank. The Record bearings lasted until last summer. Another Record crankset I've got needed new bearings after 3 years and around 15K miles. Some of it is the bearings, some of it the alignment of the bottom bracket and it being square. The seven year bearings were in a Pegoretti, the shorter life bearings were in a custom steel. I also have a 2006 Centaur UT with a bunch of miles and the bearings are still silky smooth. I keep a set of bearings in my toolbox along with the tools. If I'm traveling and need new bearings, I can just do it myself. I wouldn't depend on an LBS having the parts/tools.
 

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Double-check that it's not the chain. Often the squeaks in a drivetrain are not from where you think.
 

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Update on this - I waited too long to regrease my ND side bearing on one of my first UT cranks (07 I think?) and it rusted. The grease looked brown, I did flush and regrease the bearing and it seemed ok but after 500 miles it felt gritty. Changed the bearings last weekend with the Park tool, super duper easy once you remember there is a C clip on the drive side, and the crankset is back to 100% perfect working order.

So my first bearing change is after about 11-12 years, not too shabby!
 
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