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chamois creme addict
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am (finally) making the switch from S to C, and I am going to be building two bikes up with Campy this week. I have a query for the C users....do you prefer to run your Ergo shifter cables on the front of the bars with the brake cables, or on the back of the bars? Is there an advantage to one routing over the other?
 

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Juanmoretime
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I use a TTT Prima 199 bar which is double grooved, one groove on the front side and the other on th back side of the bar. This is the only bar I've ever used since becoming a Campy user. The shift cable runs on the front and brake to the back. Double cables might make your grip feel strange at first.

YMMV
 

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I can see how that might make your grip feel weird. The brake cables always run at the front of the bar. They can only run around the back if you cross them over or under the shift cable somewhere along the way....
 

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Eric_H said:
I am (finally) making the switch from S to C, and I am going to be building two bikes up with Campy this week. I have a query for the C users....do you prefer to run your Ergo shifter cables on the front of the bars with the brake cables, or on the back of the bars? Is there an advantage to one routing over the other?
I've run my campy cables both ways on bars that contain grooves on the front and back of the bar (Deda and 3TTT). when the shifter cable housing is routed to the front of the bar you can feel the housing under the bar tape as it crosses over the top of the bar to the front (there's no groove in this place on any bar i've seen). this annoyed me at first but i don't even notice it now. other than that i didn't notice any difference in the feel of the bars as others said you might. of course, this may be different for you.

at one point i was having some shifting problems and for the life of me couldn't figure them out myself. i ended up taking it to a local shop that specializes in campy stuff. the mechanic did a couple of things, one of which was to re-route the shifter cable to the front. he claimed it provided a cleaner cable path with less friction. the other thing he did was grease the cables/housing since they had dried out over time (i was getting back on the bike after our son was born). i don't think that the cable routing made all of the difference as the bike previously shifted very well with it routed around the back. but there you have it - more input.

personally i like the aesthetics of having them all routed on the front of the bar.
 

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Eric_H said:
I am (finally) making the switch from S to C, and I am going to be building two bikes up with Campy this week. I have a query for the C users....do you prefer to run your Ergo shifter cables on the front of the bars with the brake cables, or on the back of the bars? Is there an advantage to one routing over the other?
I prefer both in front. Even with a groove I still don't like the way it feels at the back of the bar.I really like the ITM Unika bar since it has a double front groove which keeps them unobtrusive.
 

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Front....

I definitely prefer both cables routed to the front of the bar. It is tricky to get the shift cable taped tightly to the bar where it crosses over. Prebending the end of the housing where it slips into the ergo lever body can be helpful. I use strapping tape to hold the cables firmly in place. I've also used carefully cut pieces of foam rubber to fill in the triangular gap between the shift and brake cable. A product called "Camper seal" works great for handlebar padding. You can get a large roll of this foam rubber tape at home improvement stores like Home Depot. If routed properly, the shift cable will follow a natural crease in the palm of your hand and you won't notice it.

Routing the shift cable around the back of the bar is guaranteed to place the cable under the heel of your hand where you'll feel it.

The front routing works particularly well with bars that have no grooves (like the Easton carbon. Just position the shift cable at the 3o'clock position and the brake cable below it.

Another trick that works on many modern frames is routing the right shift cable housing to the left cable stop and the left shift cable housing to the right cable stop. Cross the cables under the downtube and insert as normal into the BB cable guide. This routing keeps the cable housings from touching the head tube and wearing off the paint. The cables may rub on the downtube though, depending on the frame. I've used a piece of clear vinyl "bikesaver tape" on some frames to prevent damage. Both of my current bikes have small curved pieces of stainless steel sheet metal (about thumbnail size) attached to the downtube with silicon caulk, where the cables cross, to protect the downtube and prevent "cable rattle" which can be a problem if the cables touch the downtube.
 

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Baltic Scum
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One vote for the back

Routing the cables along the back side of the bar will allow you to end up with a cleaner looking front end.
Let me explain: The rear routing makes it possible to have all four cables meet in just one point below the stem-faceplate. Start by cutting the front brake housing to run parallel to the headtube. Next, the shifter cables, equal in length, get cut so that they intersect the front brake cable housing in the center of the headtube (looking from in front of the bike). Lastly, cut the rear brake housing to meet the other three in the same spot.
In my first attempt at routing Campy housing a few years ago, I used the front routing method. To me, it looked a little cluttered up there.
After comparing my job with some pics of very nicely done professional bikes (notably Telekom and Fassa Bortolo), I decided to make the switch and have not looked back since.
As for above mentioned problems, a piece of good quality electrical tape will secure the cable nicely, grooved bar or not (I run both). And yes, the bar feels a little wider coming out of the shifter, but done correctly, you will not have any uncomfortable pressure points to deal with. I say: "Go to the rear, young man!!"
 

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Juanmoretime
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Me bad,

Divve is correct, the shift cables are to the rear and the brake to the front. When I set it up I just placed the cables where they looked where they belonged and that's shift rear, brake front.
 

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Every little counts...
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Aha! So they can be greased!

Second season on my cables and I have some slack shifts. I will lubricate them.

BTW, my shifter cables are running in the back. But, I exit them from the tape before the end of the tape (I think MB1 showed a picture of this). No pics now.
 

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chamois creme addict
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
One more important thing!

Thanks for all the replies so far. I am using Deda Newton bars so I will put the shifter cables in the back as I think it will be a cleaner routing, and the Newton bars do not have really deep grooves.

Now, on to a question that shows my relative inexperience with Campy parts. How exactly do you Campy experts access the 5mm bar clamp bolt on the Ergo shifters? It is hidden way under the hood and I tried rolling the hood forward to get at it, but the Ergo thumb lever gets in the way of rolling the hood. I really don't want to rip the hood! There has to be some secret here, and I'm missing it, the manual does not give me much info.

I'm embarassed to have to ask this question. I've built numerous bikes over the past years, but they have all been Shimano. I've worked on Campy bikes doing derailleur adjustments and stuff, but never actually installed a lever.
 

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Eric_H said:
Now, on to a question that shows my relative inexperience with Campy parts. How exactly do you Campy experts access the 5mm bar clamp bolt on the Ergo shifters? It is hidden way under the hood and I tried rolling the hood forward to get at it, but the Ergo thumb lever gets in the way of rolling the hood. I really don't want to rip the hood! There has to be some secret here, and I'm missing it, the manual does not give me much info.
You can easily pull the hood over the ergo button without breaking it. In my cable routing adventures I've done this more times than most folks and never had a problem with ripping the hood. Once it's over the ergo button then you do what you were doing - just pull the hood up until it exposes the allen bolt.
 

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chamois creme addict
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
From the front?

Thanks for the reply Kerry. Do you put the allen wrench in from the front of the lever then? This seems unlikely but I just want to confirm.

All this new technology to me is very confusing....wait until I start adjusting the rear derailleur - align at the 4th cog up from the bottom....completely different than Shimano :)
 

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Campy ergo lever bolt access

Dudes ---- Three ways... In order of my personal preference.

1) best way is from the front - under the hood. Roll the hood back a bit so you can see the wrench go in. The hood will stretch just fine, and then stretch back to original shape.

2) roll the hood back all the way, pealing it over the downshift thumb button. It won't rip. Its easy - go for it.

3. least desireable - roll the hood back so that you can just see the nut. You have to use a ball-end wrench in this case. Its no fun.

(I just replaced my hoods, too, so I got to try the different methods.)
 

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Same here

divve said:
For safety put a little grease on the threads as well. It appears the aluminum bolt cold-fuses with the steel clamp threads quite easily.....don't ask me how I know.....:)
A bit of enthusiastic wrenching, ie never work on your bike after coming back from the pub.

Ordered a new clamp set, nut and bolt from the UK Campy distributor for £6.35, ouch!
 
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