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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been burned before by the lovely aluminum/titanium galvanic corrosion in the bottom bracket shell. I'm going to put a Campy UT crankset on a Ti road bike, the "new" instruction sheet with the cranks say to "hand tighten with Loctite 222" whereas the "old" instructions indicated no thread lock and torque to spec (Park's site says 300 in/lb). Should I skip the Loctite and use the good ole anti-sieze and torque the cups tight?
 

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n00bsauce
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For this application I would suggest anti-seize. Most people don't remove their BB very often and there's a lot of surface area for galvanic corrosion to occur. I don't believe loctite will prevent galvanic corrosion. I would also reduce the torque spec by about 10% from the no thread lock spec if using anti-seize as grease (anti-seize is a grease) will create more tension at a given torque spec than torquing without grease.
 

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Two choices

crestlinefarm said:
I've been burned before by the lovely aluminum/titanium galvanic corrosion in the bottom bracket shell. I'm going to put a Campy UT crankset on a Ti road bike, the "new" instruction sheet with the cranks say to "hand tighten with Loctite 222" whereas the "old" instructions indicated no thread lock and torque to spec (Park's site says 300 in/lb). Should I skip the Loctite and use the good ole anti-sieze and torque the cups tight?
IMO, thread locker is not a good long term solution for bike stuff. Grease and anti-seize both work well, with grease being cheaper, more readily available, and not as messy. However, there's nothing really wrong with anti-seize. I've used grease for aluminum cups in a Ti frame for 11 seasons and over 100,000 miles with zero problems. Also grease for the Ti-Ti bits (rear derailleur mounting bolt, Ti seat post, Ti stem) and it's worked out fine.
 

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no loctite...

Grease or antisieze would both work. I would not reduce the torque spec. The 35Nm that Campy recommends would not be a dry torque.

The loctite method that suggests hand tightening makes no sense. Perhaps a light toque of 5-10Nm, but not hand tightening.
 

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n00bsauce
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Perhaps my recommendation on torque spec was confusing. If the instructions call for installing a part without grease or any other kind of lubricant, in other words metal to metal, with a specific torque spec and you choose to use grease then the toque spec should be reduced by 10%. If the installation instructions call for a specific torque spec AND grease then use the specified torque spec.
 

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n00bsauce
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The reason I recommended anti-seize instead of grease for this application is, unlike you, most people don't remove their BB for years, if ever. When it does come time it may have been several years. There's lots of surface area in contact in a BB and this is a prime candidate for galvanic corrosion. It's just added protection for this area. Other applications I wouldn't hesitate to just use grease. If I was sure I was going to remove the BB for an overhaul on a regular basis (say once a year or every two years) grease would probably be fine. It's just that if galvanic corrosion does set in it makes it REALLY hard to get a BB out without some damage to something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Great torque info, thanks all!
This will be for a mostly fair-weather bike (which in the PNW is July, August & September) that gets torn down twice per year, so I think I'll use the anti-sieze until it's gone then switch to my new favorite marine grease.
 

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Great Info!!

i just bought a tub of anti-seize (PermaTex or something like that) from McGukin's Hardware in Boulder for my Ti frames that I'm building. It is the same stuff that bike shops sell but you get about 4 or 5 times the amount for the same price of the tube that the shop sells. I haven't used it for the "temporary" build that I am doing for the wife's Titus Ti frame but when the Chorus 11 stuff gets here, I will definitely remember to use copious amounts on all the threaded parts of the frame/component interface.

Oh, I am reminded that the bottom bracket shell of my Colnago Ext C is Ti so I will have to use it there as well when I start putting that together. Thanks for this thread bubbas- I would have forgot about that!!!
 

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Heavy riding?

crestlinefarm said:
This will be for a mostly fair-weather bike (which in the PNW is July, August & September) that gets torn down twice per year.
2X teardowns per year in 3 months of riding? How many miles do you ride in a month? For reference, our bikes get a 1X per year teardown, and that's 8,000-10,000 miles.
 

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Tourist
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First: teflon tape on the cups. Prevents creaking and helps as well against corrosion. Few people know it but it helps and it's cheap.

Second: grease, lots of it. Both on the cups and on the threads on the frame. Anti-seize is not bad, but I've seen corrosion even with it, and it's a bit messy to remove. Loctite, I would never use this.
 
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