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Strained coccyx etc etc
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handsomerob wants to know and asked me and now i feel stoopid and i'm sure you guys could tell me fer sher. he's in the car and i'm not, so i'm posting on his bee-half and like that.

thanks for your expertise/experience.

-J
 

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haiku d'etat said:
handsomerob wants to know and asked me and now i feel stoopid and i'm sure you guys could tell me fer sher. he's in the car and i'm not, so i'm posting on his bee-half and like that.

thanks for your expertise/experience.

-J
If it's a steel frame, it's easier to pinch the dropouts and use the 126 axle.

To do it right, you need a 130mm axle and additional 2mm spacer on each side.
 

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Old, slow, and fat.
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Dave Hickey said:
If it's a steel frame, it's easier to pinch the dropouts and use the 126 axle.

To do it right, you need a 130mm axle and additional 2mm spacer on each side.
What he said. Done it a few times. Best to get the longer axle and a few spacers.

Won't cost too much...

Potential problem$: if yer running a cassette you'll need to get a different ca$$ssette body. If you're running a freewheel, you're limited to the Sachs 8sp FWs. (I still have one for some reason...)

HTH,

M
 

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Grip problem

Can a 126mm axle be spaced out to fit into a 130mm dropout?

A likely problem would be that there might not be enough axle sticking out past the locknuts for the dropouts to "sit" on.
 

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n00bsauce
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I've got a SS/fixed gear flip flop wheel with 126 spacing. I use it on both a 126 spaced steel frame and a 130 spaced alu frame with washers. It's a solid axle and is long enough to fit lug nuts on the 130 spaced frame with no problem. I have no slippage problems. I don't even take off the washers when I put it on the 126 frame. I just move the washers to the outside of the dropouts. This probably works fine because I use lug nuts instead of a skewer.
 

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I've done it, but it's best to just get a new axle.
(If it's a "sealed" bearing hub with a funky non standard axle, you are kinda' forced to try this).
 
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