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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
One of my bikes developed a "click-clack" sound under heavy pedaling. I had something similar on another bike and it was the Look pedals. The bike has 5000 miles total on it, Having the pedals wear out in 5000 is feasible so I replaced them. No change. This noise happen every crank revolution and it does not matter if I am sitting or standing. The next logical thing would seem to be the BB but 5000 miles seems way too early. The BB is a Truvativ GXP with SRAM Rival cranks
 

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Adorable Furry Hombre
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5000 miles in sunny weather...or 5000 miles of CX mud and pressure-washes?
 

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One of my bikes developed a "click-clack" sound under heavy pedaling. I had something similar on another bike and it was the Look pedals. The bike has 5000 miles total on it, Having the pedals wear out in 5000 is feasible so I replaced them. No change. This noise happen every crank revolution and it does not matter if I am sitting or standing. The next logical thing would seem to be the BB but 5000 miles seems way too early. The BB is a Truvativ GXP with SRAM Rival cranks
5000 miles is actually quite good for that SRAM ****.

It is a SRAM typical crap design.

You can disassemble the bottom bracket and grease the ball bearings and bearing cage. You need to remove the bearing lip though.

However, it may be better and faster if you replace it (they are cheap on ebay).
 

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If you got caught in the rain, and water pooled in the bottom bracket shell, the bearings could go in 500 miles.
 

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Having pedals wear out in 5k miles is not feasible in my book
SRAM doesn't give a ****.

Admittedly, I also have had Shimao Tiagra 4700 bottom brackets wear out in no time (3000 km) on my commuter. I bought it from a seller in Ireland on ebay and it came unpacked and without instructions and I have no clue if it was a fake.

Edit: I should read your post first. Anyway. I agree pedals shot after 8k is a no go.
 

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If you got caught in the rain, and water pooled in the bottom bracket shell, the bearings could go in 500 miles.
So you are saying SRAM GXP brackets are not designed to be used in rain?

Maybe SRAM in Chicago should put in a disclaimer: Must only be used in sunny California.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
5000 miles in sunny weather...or 5000 miles of CX mud and pressure-washes?
5000 miles of mostly rain free riding. I had the heavily maligned Veloce BB on one of my bikes and it lasted over 20K
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
SRAM doesn't give a ****.

Admittedly, I also have had Shimao Tiagra 4700 bottom brackets wear out in no time (3000 km) on my commuter. I bought it from a seller in Ireland on ebay and it came unpacked and without instructions and I have no clue if it was a fake.

Edit: I should read your post first. Anyway. I agree pedals shot after 8k is a no go.
I am a heavier rider 180-190 and Look pedals usually get me about 6000 miles before there is a noticeable "click". Given that you can find a pair or Keo Max pedals for $60, I live with it. I have a spare GXP BB so I guess I will replace it
 

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I am a heavier rider 180-190 and Look pedals usually get me about 6000 miles before there is a noticeable "click". Given that you can find a pair or Keo Max pedals for $60, I live with it. I have a spare GXP BB so I guess I will replace it
I have Shimano SPD pedals.

However, pedals should definitely last longer than 8k.

I wouldn't be happy if they last less than 20k.

In theory the pedals are serviceable. However, no one -- except bike shops -- has that ****ing wrench (at least not me).
 

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Forever a Student
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Pull the crank.

Unscrew both sides of the bottom bracket.

Clean the threads in the shell really well.

Clean the threads on the bottom bracket cups really well.

Apply fresh thick grease to both threaded surfaces.

Reinstall everything.

Should take care of it. I doubt there's anything wrong with your bearings. You can turn them by hand though after pulling the crank to see if they're still smooth or not, I bet they're fine.
 

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5000 miles of mostly rain free riding. I had the heavily maligned Veloce BB on one of my bikes and it lasted over 20K
One theory that has been popping up over the years is the following: your bottom bracket cups are not properly aligned with each other due to an improperly milled bottom bracket end of the frame. This will reduce the lifespan of the bearings and races and increase load.

I cannot believe that a good bottom bracket is like the princess and the pie.
 

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The BB could be going south. OR, it could just be loose. Take everything apart, put everything back together, torque everything properly, see what happens.

I have a Shimano Hollowtech II bike that did this at 4K miles. I did the above and all was well with the world.
 

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I have Shimano SPD pedals.

However, pedals should definitely last longer than 8k.

I wouldn't be happy if they last less than 20k.

In theory the pedals are serviceable. However, no one -- except bike shops -- has that ****ing wrench (at least not me).
I use good old humble cheapo Shimano SPD 520 pedals. Over 6K miles and no problems. At $25 a pair, it's hardly worth servicing them when they do break. They won't owe me anything by then.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Pull the crank.

Unscrew both sides of the bottom bracket.

Clean the threads in the shell really well.

Clean the threads on the bottom bracket cups really well.

Apply fresh thick grease to both threaded surfaces.

Reinstall everything.

Should take care of it. I doubt there's anything wrong with your bearings. You can turn them by hand though after pulling the crank to see if they're still smooth or not, I bet they're fine.
Thanks. I have a spare GXP BB (they sent me 2 when I bought the build kit), so I probably will just install it if I have to pull the BB anyway
 

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You've never had water egress into your frame tubes on an hours long rain ride, or race??
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
You've never had water egress into your frame tubes on an hours long rain ride, or race??
What's an egret got to do with this?

Body of water Nature Organism Daytime Natural environment

With the GXP design the bearings are outside of the BB, so they are perhaps a bit more vulnerable. I will take it apart this weekend and have a look in there
 

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It is a SRAM typical crap design.

You can disassemble the bottom bracket and grease the ball bearings and bearing cage. You need to remove the bearing lip though.

However, it may be better and faster if you replace it (they are cheap on ebay).
SRAM (Truvativ) is one of the better outboard designs.
Perfect location of the axle without any preload on the bearings.
A small problem with the current GXP BB's is the fact that SRAM has thougt it to be necessary to deliver the left bearing with 22,2 inner diameter while the axle is 22,0 mm.
This very likely causes movement and the clicking sound when the crank bolt is not extremely tight.
Since I know this I wrap the 22,0 part with 1 turn of PTFE tape and my GXP BB is now running 4 years (> 25000 km) without any problem.
 

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What's an egret got to do with this?

View attachment 319301

With the GXP design the bearings are outside of the BB, so they are perhaps a bit more vulnerable. I will take it apart this weekend and have a look in there
And what would an Egret find in your frame tubes, fish?
 

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If you get an egret's head stuck in your front wheel.....It's gonna hurt...
As for egress....
Draining your Bike
 
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