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Another Mamil
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just built a new 26" front wheel (Velocity Blunt + Schmidt's Original Nabendynamo 28 CL 32h Disc Hub) for my new cargo bike (a Yuba Boda Boda) and will be utilizing a 160mm Hayes disc setup for braking. I thought that the cantilever studs were threaded on, but closer inspection has revealed that they are braze-ons. They are brazed onto threaded bosses. Damn. I had planned to remove them when I installed the disc conversion.

Now I have the studs sticking out which could easily grab onto something, but also look pretty stupid. Since I plan to own this bike for a long time and roll up plenty of miles on it I would really prefer to remove them.

I have soldered a lot of copper pipe and have a nice MAPP gas torch; do you think I can carefully remove the studs without harming the fork? I am thinking about threading a long bolt into them, wrapping the fork in a big, wet rag by the boss, and then carefully heating the studs just enough so they will come loose. FYI: The fork is chrome-molly.

If I mess up the paint that is no big deal, I am having a pint of matching paint mixed already to paint some accessories.

If I ever want to go back to cantilever brakes, I can simply buy two threaded studs.

Opinions?



 

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25.806975801127
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I just built a new 26" front wheel (Velocity Blunt + Schmidt's Original Nabendynamo 28 CL 32h Disc Hub) for my new cargo bike (a Yuba Boda Boda) and will be utilizing a 160mm Hayes disc setup for braking. I thought that the cantilever studs were threaded on, but closer inspection has revealed that they are braze-ons. They are brazed onto threaded bosses. Damn. I had planned to remove them when I installed the disc conversion.

Now I have the studs sticking out which could easily grab onto something, but also look pretty stupid. Since I plan to own this bike for a long time and roll up plenty of miles on it I would really prefer to remove them.

I have soldered a lot of copper pipe and have a nice MAPP gas torch; do you think I can carefully remove the studs without harming the fork? I am thinking about threading a long bolt into them, wrapping the fork in a big, wet rag by the boss, and then carefully heating the studs just enough so they will come loose. FYI: The fork is chrome-molly.

If I mess up the paint that is no big deal, I am having a pint of matching paint mixed already to paint some accessories.

If I ever want to go back to cantilever brakes, I can simply buy two threaded studs.

Opinions?



Those aren't threaded and welded. They're welded. You'd have to cut the entire mount off or cut the stud off. There would be no putting them back on, other than welding on new mounts.
 

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Another Mamil
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179 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
The post is welded to the boss?
Don't they normally either thread or braze them on?

(I know that they are not threaded on, I said that the bosses are the threaded type. I thought the posts were brazed to the boss.)

If the posts are welded on and I very carefully cut them off, not damaging the boss at all, would I not be able to use the threaded boss (with a threaded post) in the future (if I chose to) since the threads would still be intact and undamaged?

Like these:

 

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It's your bike. I'm not sure what could actually catch on them that wouldn't have allready have caught on your brakes before.
It's unfortunate that you can't unthread them. But I would think long and hard before cutting them off. That's IMHO . Just saying.

Bill
 

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Bracket and frame look to be aluminum to me, and the shaft steel, in which case they are not welded or brazed together. Could be loctite or epoxy though. I'd try visegrips and if it seemed stuck, I'd heat the shaft with a torch or heat gun to soften any adhesive.
 

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Another Mamil
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
looigi - The manufacturer told me the fork and brake boss are CroMo. Definitely not glued on, either welded or brazed. Asked the builder today, have not yet heard back. I think I may have found a solution for now though, stay tuned...
 

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if it were my bike and I'd converted to disks, I'd just properly cut off the entire welded mount piece (the green painted part), carefully smooth it down with a grinder and touch up the paint or prime it and put a decent looking decal or vinyl material on it that would look quasi-oem. I've put that stuff on a couple of flaws on bike frames and it can really look OK, not noticeable to a casual observer. I think with reasonable care, since it's steel especially, this would be risk-free. If you're uncertain, just have someone familiar with bike frames do it for you, can't possibly cost much to have it done.

I wouldn't leave any vestigages of anything not needed for the new set up. I can't think of any downside because you've changed it to disks and neither you nor any future rider would need those canti bosses back. I'm really not a very fussy bike guy (don't insist on pristine cleanliness, for instance), but I hate unneeded stuff like this. Having any part of a canti boss on there if not needed would drive me nuts. I absolutely hate the disk forks you sometimes see on cross bikes that don't have disks. I'd never own one.
 

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Another Mamil
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179 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I spoke with a frame builder that I recently met at NAHBS. He said he can remove either the post or the entire boss, he can even repaint it for me when he's done. I will decide later, but for now, this is my temporary fix:

 

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I spoke with a frame builder that I recently met at NAHBS. He said he can remove either the post or the entire boss, he can even repaint it for me when he's done. I will decide later, but for now, this is my temporary fix:

That's what I did with mine. I have a steel Redline 29er with welded-on brake bosses. I stuck "Eraser Pals" on the studs. I consider that my permanent solution.

I'd never remove bosses from a fork - I'd use them to install a front rack such as those from Velo Orange or Nitto that attach to the bosses and the top fender/brake hole.
 

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I was going to suggest putting some horns on that thing and rolling around in style but those missiles are damn cool.
 

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I like your "temporary fix" better than the idea of grinding off the canti studs. In fact, I was going to suggest something like that. The little bombs that you threaded into the canti mounts probably add at least 1 mph to your speed as well.
 

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Another Mamil
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I only wish they could be functional.
This would solve the 'dooring' hazard quickly. ;-)

(FYI, they are Electra shrader valve stem caps. I had to machine them out on my drill press to get them to fit)
 
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