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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I got a new car this week and the manual says to break the engine in for the first 1K miles.

* Do not got faster than 65 mph
* Keep the RPM under 4K
* etc...

Years ago my cousin who is a mechanic and engine builder told me differently. He said if you baby the engine, you will have have a "softer" engine. But breaking it with more real world driving and performance, the engine will yield that in the long run.

Id did this on my old civic Si back in 92 and that thing ran super smooth and had really good performance.

Is that just an old wives tail? Newer engines more delicate or sophisticated were I need to follow the recommendations?

thanks
 

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No hero that's understood
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In my experience, this is like the eternal Shimano vs. Campy debate. Some say break in gently, others say drive it like you stole it. In the long run, I have a feeling it doesn't much matter. What I do know is that manufacturing tolerances have greatly improved since back in the day and the levels of wear during the break-in period are negligible.

You will probably get fervent advice in either direction.
 

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Ricardo Cabeza
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you aren't going to hurt the engine no matter how you do it
 

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Andy69 said:
you aren't going to hurt the engine no matter how you do it
But at least let it get to operating temperature before you push it hard. IMO, load variation is the key—no 2-hour cruises at a steady speed.
 

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I am an engine mechanic.

I don't think a break in is normally necessary, unless it's an outboard engine requiring a special fuel/oil mix. But - if the owners manual says to break it in, I would follow the instructions.

I have never heard of an engine going "soft" due to break-in. It's not like you can make it htfu by abusing it.
 

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Eddy 53:11
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I say, take it easy and let things wear-in/seat gently just to be sure. There's never any harm
in doing that. Warm it up a minute or two, drive it gently until it gest to full operating temp,
give it a minute to cool down after running on the road. Just like how you operate NNCing.

All that said, I'm a liitle bit particular about how I treat my things.
 

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donuts?
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simply do a mixture of driving - city, highway, rural, urban. don't push it until you have the engine warmed up and the oil a flow'n.
 

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Brand new car might be using a thin grade of oil till the complimentry first service is due..could be related. I know when I was building stroker V8s we were running them in with a run in type oil...Looking through my manual now and cant seem to find anything and the dealer never said to take it easy when I picked my new car up. Drive to conditions and get to know your new car first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
GirchyGirchy said:
Follow the manufacturer's instructions, normally they're there for a reason. I'd change the oil as well.
Change oil now or after break in period?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah, it seems like this debate goes both ways in a feverish debate.
I feel both ways on this. When I had trucks, I kinda just put the screws to the engine more. When I have a car, I follow the break in a bit more. But when varying RPM, I always push it a bit more than the manual said.

I am at 511 miles already so staying with the break in process will be easy.

I really want this engine to run smooth and get to 150k easily
 

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Beetpull DeLite
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DIRT BOY said:
Change oil now or after break in period?
At the end of the break in period.

Who knows, might not matter, but oil changes don't cost much. Cheap insurance IMO if you're going to try to keep your car for a while.

Yeah, it seems like this debate goes both ways in a feverish debate.
Yup, thanks to the internetz. But when in doubt go with the manufacturer.
 

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Beetpull DeLite
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innergel said:
The last few Chevy Trucks I've bought (2 Tahoes, 1 Silverado) I asked the dealer about break in. He said "don't worry about it and just drive it".
LOL that tells you all you need to know. Use the break in period. :)
 

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At least part of the break-in is for the gears in the tranny, diff, and u/cv joints. These mating surfaces take time to find home/wear together and generate a LOT of heat until they bed in. I change most fluid/filters at around 1500 miles to get all the metal debris and broken down oil out of circulation. I also use dino oil until ~10k then switch to synthetic.
 

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Also follow the instructions in the drivers manual for changing oil.

If it says 7500 miles, then there isn't a need to change it every 3,000 unless you just want to spend the $$.

121,000 miles on my honda civic hybrid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Chain said:
Also follow the instructions in the drivers manual for changing oil.

If it says 7500 miles, then there isn't a need to change it every 3,000 unless you just want to spend the $$.

121,000 miles on my honda civic hybrid.
I do that.

My old 92 civic si got 1288K with me and 232k before it died for the next owner.

Only used synthetic and slick 50 after 1K miles
 
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