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· Domestic Drivin' E-Thug
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MTB Racer said:
New Question: Any issues w/ running a Carbon Aero Tubular Wheel in Front w/ Regular Mavic Open Pro Clincher in the rear? Just want to make sure my bike doesnt blow up tomorrow...
If you did go that route, which would be a bad idea for the formentioned reason, you'd want your more aero wheel in the rear and the "regular" wheel in the front to avoid cross winds hazards. Otherwise, both aero or neither aero.
 

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The Human G-Nome said:
If you did go that route, which would be a bad idea for the formentioned reason, you'd want your more aero wheel in the rear and the "regular" wheel in the front to avoid cross winds hazards. Otherwise, both aero or neither aero.
That makes no sense. An aero rim in front provides about 25% more benefit than in the rear. So if there can only be one aero wheel, it should be the front. It's true that adding more area behind the steerer helps reduce the turning moment from the front wheel and fork, but that only comes into play in extreme conditions. For most applications, riders have no trouble controlling deep front rims even in 20-25 mph crosswinds.

I think it's safe to assume, the rider knows what he can handle and would only buy as deep a rim as he feels safe with. The exception used to be a disk wheel where even with the 25% penalty, it would be better than an aero front, but now with the extremely deep rims being sold, that is no longer always true.

Both aero if you have two, or one aero if you only have one. Put it in front if it's a front, put it in back if it's a rear. Pick the front if you have a choice.
 

· Domestic Drivin' E-Thug
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asgelle said:
That makes no sense. An aero rim in front provides about 25% more benefit than in the rear. So if there can only be one aero wheel, it should be the front. It's true that adding more area behind the steerer helps reduce the turning moment from the front wheel and fork, but that only comes into play in extreme conditions. For most applications, riders have no trouble controlling deep front rims even in 20-25 mph crosswinds.

I think it's safe to assume, the rider knows what he can handle and would only buy as deep a rim as he feels safe with. The exception used to be a disk wheel where even with the 25% penalty, it would be better than an aero front, but now with the extremely deep rims being sold, that is no longer always true.

Both aero if you have two, or one aero if you only have one. Put it in front if it's a front, put it in back if it's a rear. Pick the front if you have a choice.
Did you happen to mention the word "crosswind"? If you did, then you'd realize that you're the one not making any sense. You think it's "safe to assume that a rider knows excactly what he can handle?" Why is it safe to assume that? It's not even remotely a good take. Riders/racers do stupid things all the time. You see it every day in races, in equipment choices, etc. Perhaps you don't race in strong crosswinds, but there's nothing simple about racing a deep dish front wheel in a 30 mph crosswind. It's assinine.

We're talking real riding/race conditions here, not a TT.
 

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well, the OP hasn't given us enuff info... we dont know what the use is for, and we don't know what he meant by aero... could be only a 32 reynolds? 38? ... unless its a 88 or 101mm, i generally concur w/ asgelle.... it will provide a benefit and most can handle 50mm or less up front... besides, sounds to me like the OP has no choice so why not stick on what he has available??
 

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The rear wheel drafts the frame. Bang for your buck is an aero front if you only have one. I used to ride crits with a four spoke spinergy in the front and a box tubular in the rear. I did it in a few road races and I never really had an issue with cross winds. IMHO, the crosswind issue is overblown. No pun intended.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
wankski said:
well, the OP hasn't given us enuff info... we dont know what the use is for, and we don't know what he meant by aero... could be only a 32 reynolds? 38? ... unless its a 88 or 101mm, i generally concur w/ asgelle.... it will provide a benefit and most can handle 50mm or less up front... besides, sounds to me like the OP has no choice so why not stick on what he has available??
Thanks for all the replies...To Clarify this is what I am doing now:
Dura Ace 7801 in the front, Power Tap Open Pro in the rear.
I just bought a set of EC90 Aero and want to:
Run the EC90 Areo tubular in the front (Crit and Road Race only) and the Old Power Tap open pro in the rear.

Sounds like this will work fine as long as there are no crazy cross winds...Im 5-'7, 157lbs fwiw
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
nrspeed said:
dont forget to change your front pads if you are using a front carbon wheel
Thanks I did that yesterday...took the carbon wheel for a spin around the neighborhood and noticed braking power is greatly diminished...is that normal w/ carbon wheels vs traditional?
 

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yepo... unfortunately the downside of lightweight tubbies with carbon braking surfaces... hence carbon rims w/ alu brake tracks... what pads u using now?? may have better performance with some of the expensive stuff... swisstop etc
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
wankski said:
yepo... unfortunately the downside of lightweight tubbies with carbon braking surfaces... hence carbon rims w/ alu brake tracks... what pads u using now?? may have better performance with some of the expensive stuff... swisstop etc
Just bought some Kool Stops..
 

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I found that brakeing with swiss stop yellow on my carbon wheels is actually pretty good. I am slowing down a 180 pound rider with very lightweight brakes too! I cant comment on the Koolstops, hopefully you will see an improvement.
 
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