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Is it silly for me to think about putting a carbon fork on my cross check? Also, how many of you are using a flat bar for cross? I have a neck/shoulder problem and the "twist" of the wrists and subsequent shoulder "twist" when riding the hoods or sweeps seem to aggravate it it over a longer ride (I have no problems on my mtn. bike). Any suggestions? Thanks ahead of time.
 

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well if youre putting the carbon on for weight savings, then yes it is silly.

if youre putting it on because you already own a carbon fork and are saving money, then go for it.

if youre putting it on because you think it looks cool go for it, its your bike.


Flat bar-----if you hurt on a road bar, then go flat bar, youre not going to be in any UCI races as a pro or anything, so go with whats best for you. Any local CX race in USA wont not let you in (so long as no bar ends).

jeremyb
 

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well agreed

about the posters view on the cf fork. don't do it for weight savings, kinda like trying to lighten a dump truck.

neck shoulders, you need to learn to pivot at the hips, not roll your shoulders. people getting low tend to arc their back up ward which rounds the shoulders and then forces a recurve of the neck to see. You need to practice keeping the back flatter and pivot torso at the hips.much easier on the body.you might (ESPECIALLY GIVEN NEW FORK ADDITION) set it up higher than your previous set up
 

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Discussion Starter #4
atpjunkie said:
about the posters view on the cf fork. don't do it for weight savings, kinda like trying to lighten a dump truck.

neck shoulders, you need to learn to pivot at the hips, not roll your shoulders. people getting low tend to arc their back up ward which rounds the shoulders and then forces a recurve of the neck to see. You need to practice keeping the back flatter and pivot torso at the hips.much easier on the body.you might (ESPECIALLY GIVEN NEW FORK ADDITION) set it up higher than your previous set up
It's actually more of a problem of the vertebrae in my neck locking up in certain positions due to getting in by a drunk driver a few years back ( i was in a car, not riding thank god). The problem isn't rolling the neck/shoulders. It's the fact that I can't get my hands far enough apart on a road bar. I ride 46cm bars as it is. My position on my bike is pretty good (although we could all use improvement).
 

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carbon fork

like the others said, don't do it for the weight. do it for the rake maybe. I've been riding my trackie alot for the last couple weeks and hopped on my crosscheck today only to discover that the fork has somehow gained roughly 20 miles of rake since the last time I rode it. I was really shocked Id never noticed it before, I almost fell over trying to trackstand it. I thought about maybe finding a kona p2 fork or something similair with less rake, most carbon forks would qualify, but I got used to it after a few miles.
 

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Downside of less rake would be less toe clearance. Tight on most CX bikes anyway.
IMO most CX bikes, among those my 60cm Cross-Check, handle more quickly than I really need.
I'm looking at another fork to both slow handling and also shorten reach a bit.
With a longer fork or taller headset I could accomplish both. A custom(ized) fork or might do that even better.

Has anyone ever had a steel or alu fork customized to offer more or less rake?

I often dislike the way a fork chatters under hard braking, if I ever swithc to carbon, main reason will be to hopefully improve in that respect.
 

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Cloxxki said:
Downside of less rake would be less toe clearance. Tight on most CX bikes anyway.
IMO most CX bikes, among those my 60cm Cross-Check, handle more quickly than I really need.
If by rake you mean the perpindicular distance (offset) between the steering axis and the center of the fork dropout, I believe less rake translates to slower handling... (and more trail)

Cloxxki said:
I often dislike the way a fork chatters under hard braking, if I ever swithc to carbon, main reason will be to hopefully improve in that respect.
My (current) only cross bike has a 1-1/8 Wound Up Team X carbon fork. It has the thickest carbon steerer I've ever seen AND an aluminum sleeve inside that. I get loads of chatter when braking on pavement. My headset is most certainly not loose and I've got Paul neo-retros and salmon kool stops for those that care.

My point? I don't think any old carbon fork will solve your chatter problem. I love to wrench on my bikes and always have but simply have not figured out what causes chatter with cantis (granted I'm pretty new to cantis). Since my cross bike also doubles as a commuter I've swapped out the front neo-retro for an XT V-brake. Goodbye chatter. Why? I have no idea. My most pressing bike mechanics questions are a) why do cantis chatter and b) why don't v-brakes chatter?

Good luck with your chatter elimination efforts. If/When you find what fixes it for you, please do share.
 

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jeremyb said:
well if youre putting the carbon on for weight savings, then yes it is silly.
jeremyb
Careful there jeremy, you know I just put an Easton fork on my 60cm steel Rock Lobster. And atpjunkie, yes, I'm gonna have the lightest dump truck around. Currently right at 20.0 pounds, more lightness on the workbench and more planned. Gonna be the lightest dump truck around.
 

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toddre said:
Is it silly for me to think about putting a carbon fork on my cross check? Also, how many of you are using a flat bar for cross? I have a neck/shoulder problem and the "twist" of the wrists and subsequent shoulder "twist" when riding the hoods or sweeps seem to aggravate it it over a longer ride (I have no problems on my mtn. bike). Any suggestions? Thanks ahead of time.
I was thinking about building a crosscheck with an Jones H-Bar. I think that may be an option for you. and if you do it, let me know how it works.

http://www.jonesbikes.com/update/hbar/default.asp
 

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Hmmm, H-bar on a CX bike? The H for most riders requires a longer-than-usual stem on their MTB's, because of the back sweep. For me it was 20mm, 120>140 on a Surly Karate Monkey. And I was already running a pretty much swept flat bar before, 11º. From a 5º, I would have needed 30mm extra. Now, the KM has a toptube ~34mm longer than my Cross-Check, and I even got that one a size too big. On my ideal-size 58cm CC, I would require a ~180mm stem to run an H-bar with proper reach.

Now people run MTB bars on CC bikes all the time, but the H-bar as said requires an even longer stem, or makes for an even shorter reach position.
Now I love such swept bars, and to run them on my too-large CC, I might well be happy with a 140mm stem and an On-One Mary Bar (built-in reach adjuster). I just got one for my Fisher, and only need an 100mm stem thanks to the long top tube. Extremely natural feel at that width.

Your reason to run such an H-Bar setup might be beyond my imagination, it could work great for you :)
 

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yikes!

Englehardt said:
I was thinking about building a crosscheck with an Jones H-Bar. I think that may be an option for you. and if you do it, let me know how it works.

http://www.jonesbikes.com/update/hbar/default.asp

you could buy a set of ritchey or salsa cx bars and have enough change left over to buy some campy record carbon brake levers for the cost of the "h" bars. as an added bonus you'd have drops to ride in! the "h" bars look sort of cool though.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
blackhat said:
you could buy a set of ritchey or salsa cx bars and have enough change left over to buy some campy record carbon brake levers for the cost of the "h" bars. as an added bonus you'd have drops to ride in! the "h" bars look sort of cool though.
Yeah, I don't see an h-bar going on my cross-check. I have kids that like to eat...lol.
I thought about a Mary bar or something, but I may just try a regular flat bar to start.
 

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bikenerd said:
Careful there jeremy, you know I just put an Easton fork on my 60cm steel Rock Lobster. And atpjunkie, yes, I'm gonna have the lightest dump truck around. Currently right at 20.0 pounds, more lightness on the workbench and more planned. Gonna be the lightest dump truck around.

yeah but I'd never consider a Surly and a Rock Lobster in the same class.
 
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