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I've got a 1995-ish Cannondale 3.0 that I put a carbon fork on. I went cheap just to see how it would work out. I started with a Performance brand full carbon fork, Cane Creek S3 (I think) headseat, and Performance brand threadless stem with 1" adapter. The headtube on my bike was one inch, so make sure you measure before you buy. Anyhow, I couldn't get the full carbon fork to work out. The headset wouldn't stay tight. I ended up swapping it for the aluminum steerer version and everything has been great since then. I've put probably 300 or so miles on the bike with no problems. Fastest I've hit has been 34MPH with no problems. The fork can be a little flexy if I push it hard, and I'm only 160 pounds, but then again, that fork retails for $80 or so. I'm happy with it! Oh, as far as components, I went with the original front wheel and brake and just swapped the original handlebars onto the new stem. If you have any questions, or want any pictures, let me know.

Kris
 

· Naso Unicornis
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907 Posts
It really shouldn't matter as far as a choice of headset or fork. I take it you have a head tube made for a 1 inch diameter fork steerer tube. You could go with a threadless headset set or a standard threaded setup.

If you're going to purchase brand new, you might have an easier time with the threadless forks and headsets. Reynolds still makes 1 inch diameter steerer tube carbon forks, which can be purchased cheaply and new off Ebay. Chris King or Cane Creek both make 1 inch headset. You would be well service by a Cane Creek S-2 or S-6 headset. Of course this means you will have to change your stem. A nice Thomson X2 will fit the bill.

I didn't notice much comfort difference when I made the change on my old CAAD2 but I did notice that the bike tracked and cornered more effectively (chromoly to Time Millenium fork).

Although, if the cost climbs too high, you might just want to consider a Frame trade in and get a CAAD9 or CAAD8. Most of our colleagues have high praise for the CAAD9 frames.

CHL
 

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While a carbon fork may give a bettr ride to your old Cdale, the frame itself is probably one of the harshest riding frames ever built, so you may not want to invest too much in that bike. CHL has a great idea, you could get a significant discount off a new bike with Cdale's frame trade in policy.
 

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cyclust said:
While a carbon fork may give a bettr ride to your old Cdale, the frame itself is probably one of the harshest riding frames ever built, so you may not want to invest too much in that bike. CHL has a great idea, you could get a significant discount off a new bike with Cdale's frame trade in policy.
I used to have an original Black Lightening 3.0 series with an aluminum fork. It was the smoother riding road frame, not the crit frame. Back in the mid-90's it was upgraded to Dura Ace 8 speed and a few years later to 8 spd STI. I had recently thought about upgrading to a carbon fork and the expense was too much, if I decided to sell the bike at a later date I would have lost my shirt. So I went with the C’dale frame exchange. Last August I used the Black Lightening frame to purchase a new System Six and SI crankset. I was quoted $3299 for the frame and with the exchange it was $2399. The frame also came with the new SL/ceramic bearing crankset.

Check with your LBS and see what kind of a deal you can get first. There is a night and day difference between the old 3.0 and today’s C’dales.
 

· Naso Unicornis
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907 Posts
You'll have to check with your LBS to obtain specific pricing on the Frame Trade In Program. When I traded my CAAD2 in 2002-2003 for a CAAD4. I paid $650 including a Cane Creek C-2 Headset.

As a third alternative to upgrading the fork or upgrading the frameset, you might just want to consider purchasing a new bike. I wouldn't be surprised if you could get a very good bike for about $1200-$1300, especially if it's last year model. Of course, let your budget dictate your choice.

CHL
 
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