Bigger guys' wheels...
I can answer this one easily because I am around 220 lbs. Now, first off, and don't be offended because it really does make a difference.... are you a fat 210 or a muscular 210? If you are a fat 210 (don't worry, I am not picking on people...) you are near the upper end of the limit for light weight wheels, but I wouldn't really worry too much about it. You could probably drop 20 pounds by summer if you put the time in on the saddle. But on the other hand, if you are a muscular 210 you should steer clear of ultra light parts. Wheels, Ti pedal and BB spindles, and maybe even carbon seat posts. Here's why I say that... if you are a muscular 210 you are most likely very strong and hammer on the bike. I used to be a big ol' sprinter type and was around 175 to 180 when I used to race. Now I play ice hockey and am in the weight room a lot more and have gotten up to 220. Because I am strong, I stress parts more than little light guys. Fact of life, and no big deal if you try to be smooth on the bike, but the problem is that because I am pretty thick in the upper body, and it's not mostly fat, I am not going to drop much weight over the season. I may get down to 210, 200 if I stopped working out, but I won't drop 40 pounds of fat because I don't have that much to drop. So even riding 15 to 20 hours a week, I will still be over 200 by the summer, and I will still need to be on stronger wheels. If that's you, stay away from ultralight wheels and stay away from carbon (for another couple years...)
I ride American Classic 420's. I had them built with bladed spokes which are stronger than round spokes, and 20 front 24 rear with brass nipples. They are still lighter than Ksyriums, but are super strong. I would recommend you get something like those. Maybe not the same wheel, but something like it. Go for an alloy deep V rim. Moderately high spoke count, and bladed spokes if you can get them. Regular bladed spokes require slotted hubs, but you can also get DT Aerospeed or Sapim CX-Ray spokes. They are both very expensive, but super strong and aero as well.
Something else to consider is to break from convention and stay away from boutique wheels all together. If you are worried about crushing them, get a pair of really good handbuilt wheels instead. Dura Ace or White Industries hubs, 28 front 32 rear, Bladed spokes, and a Velocity Deep V rim. They will be around 1750 to 1800 grams, but you won't have to true them very often and you can get them fixed by anyone should you have a problem. That wheel should also cost less than $300 for the pair too.
I think there are too many people buying into the whole pre-built boutique wheel concept when in reality they are only good for a very small percentage of the cycling community. But that's just my opinion, and it seems obvious that Mavic has a different one. But then again I am not trying to sell you any wheels either.
Russ