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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am a newbie to bicycle wrenching, so please be gentle! I am looking to expand the range for the cassette in a 2012 Schwinn Slicker to a cassette more suitable for handling some hills. Please note that the bike has only one chainring (46t). It has a 105 rear derailer and currently has an 11t-25t cassette. I am hoping to expand it's usefulness without having to modify the crank and chainrings. It does come with a left bar end shifter but no front derailer. Would the 105 RD it comes with be able to handle a 11-34t or 12-34t cassette or is 13-30t (or 12-30t) the most it can handle without other modification? Do I need to also change the chain? I am not sure if the rear derailer is a short-cage derailleur or of it's specs. The derailer and chain are what comes stock with the bike.

Thanks.
 

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'brifter' is f'ing stupid
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I looked at the link and it doesn't specify exactly which 105 derailleur it has. You can check on the back side of the body of the der and it should say 105A and possibly '30T' max.
the derailleur will probably work w/ a 30, doubtful but a small chance w/ a 32 if it's an 'A' cage. 34...nope. the length of the cage has nothing to do w/ how large of a cog will work, just how much chain it will wrap. if you want to go 32 or even 34 on the cassette you'll need to install a 9 speed mtb derailleur.
 

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Cranky Old Bastard
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The RD is likely a short cage that is rated for 28t max but I've read of some that have pushed it to work with 30t. That will make your bike 20% easier up hills; not a huge difference.
Your chain might work if you're lucky; you'll have to try it to see.

To go with the bigger cogs you'll need a mountain RD and cassette and new chain, probably around $100. The spacing on an 11-34 cassette is terrible with wide gaps between gears but with a single chainring you have no choice.

The best solution would be a new crankset, FD and shifter for not much more than $100. Determine what type of BB you have and get a Shimano or Nashbar crankset that will fit. Contact MicroShift for a FD and shifter.

Haziz, I just saw your thread from three days ago.
If you have to climb hills you should have bought a bike with an inner ring. The best solution is to send it back to Nashbar and buy a different bike.
Their $500 road bike is good for the money. And with much better STI levers.
Wait for a 20-25% off sale.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
The RD is likely a short cage that is rated for 28t max but I've read of some that have pushed it to work with 30t. That will make your bike 20% easier up hills; not a huge difference.
Your chain might work if you're lucky; you'll have to try it to see.

To go with the bigger cogs you'll need a mountain RD and cassette and new chain, probably around $100. The spacing on an 11-34 cassette is terrible with wide gaps between gears but with a single chainring you have no choice.

The best solution would be a new crankset, FD and shifter for not much more than $100. Determine what type of BB you have and get a Shimano or Nashbar crankset that will fit. Contact MicroShift for a FD and shifter.

Haziz, I just saw your thread from three days ago.
If you have to climb hills you should have bought a bike with an inner ring. The best solution is to send it back to Nashbar and buy a different bike.
I will keep the bike since at it's price it's still a bargain. I was also looking for a steel frame bike as opposed to aluminum. Moreover i can use it as a commuter, which is how it was marketed by Schwinn (must however have not sold well since they reinvented it as a city bike with flat handlebars for 2013). I am just exploring my options. I have and will continue to keep a mid 90s lugged steel Serotta CSI Colorado, that is still my main bike. I am actually also using the Schwinn Slicker as an introduction/experiment in bicycle wrenching should I ever want to tinker with it. I am also still considering a Rivendell or Waterford/Gunnar relaxed geometry bike as a third bike! This hobby/sport can get addictive and expensive!
 

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Cranky Old Bastard
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It is a nice looking bike. At Nashbar it's $450 so I expected that you were on a tight budget.
 

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Cranky Old Bastard
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This hobby/sport can get addictive and expensive!
Can get expensive?? More like will get expensive!!

I'm perfectly happy with the Acura I bought eight months ago for $2500.
I don't have living room furniture, just a TV (never on) and one kitchen chair.

But I've upgraded my new Trek and am already ordering parts for my next build. It is all a matter of defining your priorities.
 

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Haziz : what is the status of your upgrade?? I am looking to do the same, I intend to keep the same cassette n get a new FD, crankset n bb also microshift bar end shifters.

can u let me know the cost involved
 

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Well, your bike is a 9-spd, and apparently there's a 9-spd 11-30 Tiagra cassette that goes for around $30 to $35. I forget, are Microshift bar-ends compatible with Shimano/SRAM cassette spacing?

If so, that might work, assuming the 105 cassette can handle a 30T max cog. My understanding is that it usually can (but ask around).

//the progression is allegedly 11,12,14,16,18,20,23,26,30.

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Universal Cycles -- Shimano Tiagra HG50 Cassette

Amazon.com: Shimano Tiagra CS-HG20 9-Speed Freehub Cassette, Silver, 11-30T: Sports & Outdoors
 

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Thanks , what about installing a new chainring , with new FD?? Or just installing a new cassette wil do the job??
I was replying to the thread-starter actually, not sure why the forum messed that up. But if you're in a very similar situation, changing just the cassette would be the cheapest option, of course. Might have to add a few links to your chain too, but that isn't expensive.

But only you can say if the gearing change will be enough/if the new gearing will be low enough for your needs. If it isn't, though, obviously you can change other things later.
 
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