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Sooooo, I wen t to 4 LBSs yesterday looking for a rear wheel that I can use on my trainer. I bout the same cassette as my outdoor wheel (Ultegra 11 speed 11-24). No one had a compatible wheel. Finally, one shop had a Shimano 501 that the tech said would work. I drove 3 hours round trip to find that, unless I am doing something wrong, the rim is not compatible with the cassette??? I even asked again before paying if it was 11 speed compatible and 2 techs told me yes.

The problem is there is not enough spline for the last cog (smallest cog). The hub appears to be too short for the last cog.

Anyone know about the 501 being 11 speed compatible? I think I'm reading online that they are 8,9, 10 compatible?
 

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Neophyte
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That does suck, return the wheel for sure.

Sometimes stores may only stock good stuff or full sets (front/back) in terms of wheel. If you want a cheaper single wheel it really is a situation where online might be better. I'm all for supporting LBS but in this case you should be able to find a sturdy, very affordable wheel online...
 

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I agree you should take it back......but if that's not an option you can probably get it to work good enough for the trainer by removing a cog and using the back spacer that 10 speeds requires (and 11 doesn't).
 

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FWIW, do you really need that 11th cog on a trainer? If the wheel was indeed cheap enough, why not remove one of the middle cogs (maybe the 9th or 10th gear), then adjust the high end stop in so you don't run the chain into your stay? That way, if you accidentally go into the last gear, it simply will do nothing.

I'm not sure it's possibly, but sounds like it's worth a try before doing a 3 hour RT drive to return a cheap wheel.
 

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But then he would need to adjust his derailleur each time he put his road wheel back on the bike. Sounds like too much of a hassle.
 

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But then he would need to adjust his derailleur each time he put his road wheel back on the bike. Sounds like too much of a hassle.
You need to adjust your derailleur when you switch your rear wheel regardless. Especially the RD limits to make sure you don't overshift into the spokes or stays.
 

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I use a 10 speed wheel on my 11 speed bike on the trainer. Honestly I never use the granny gear on the trainer so it is not a issue. The cassette is 11 speed with a middle cog removed. It has worked great for the past 2 years.

My situation is a bit different. I got my wheel for free. It has some hairline cracks around the spoke holes. I would never run it outside but on the trainer is fine. If i break a spoke it is not a long walk home ;^)

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
 

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Banned Sock Puppet
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That's ok if you don't mind risking this -


And this is if you are lucky. If you aren't lucky, the rider may look worse than this. :yikes:
 

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You need to adjust your derailleur when you switch your rear wheel regardless. Especially the RD limits to make sure you don't overshift into the spokes or stays.
Not necessarily. I swap wheels all the time and no adjustment to RD required. It all depends on how the hubs line up on the wheels. And if they're not exactly the same, you can shim the cassette.

Pro's swap wheels all the time in races and never need to adjust their RD's.
 

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Banned Sock Puppet
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Not necessarily. I swap wheels all the time and no adjustment to RD required. It all depends on how the hubs line up on the wheels. And if they're not exactly the same, you can shim the cassette.

Pro's swap wheels all the time in races and never need to adjust their RD's.
Possibly true in some cases. But I would still check. Better safe than sorry.
 

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A wheelist
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Not necessarily. I swap wheels all the time and no adjustment to RD required. It all depends on how the hubs line up on the wheels. And if they're not exactly the same, you can shim the cassette.
Pro's swap wheels all the time in races and never need to adjust their RD's.
None of my wheels (with either Dura-Ace hubs or Bitex) need a derailer adjustment but I always check. It's just a good habit to get into for the one day that something doesn't line up and then all hell lets loose. Let's discount the pros as they have pro mechanics with their jobs on the line and "free" wheels/derailers/frames if something goes wrong.

I check mine every time I clean the bike too as it's possible the derailer hanger got bent a bit.
 
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