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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all

A question on the fluid to use in my Park chain cleaner. I have been using the Park fluid, at full strength, but it gets expensive. Was wondering if there is a better fluid to use, either a citrus home made, etc.

I saw where someone used soap and water, but I wonder if that might promote corrosion.

On roads I ride, there's a lot of sand and grit, occasional dirt roads, including my driveway, so the chain gizmo does a decent job of getting the grit out.

After cleaning, I run the pro link lube on it, and wipe excess off with a rag.

thanks for the help
 

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I used to use gasoline to clean my chain... Now I go with WD 40
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Simple green available at Ace Hardware, will check next time I'm there, much appreciated
 

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minerals spirits...

Mineral spirits (paint thinner) or diesel fuel are both good degreasers, but not water soluble. Either can be reused many times, if the excess in poured into a storage bottle (like an old water bottle), allowing time for the dirt to settle out.

Like most petroleum products, the price has gone up a lot, to over $8 per gallon. Some people use odorless mineral spirits, but it costs another $2-3 per gallon and isn't odorless.

Never use gasoline. In addition to the smell, it's much more dangerous to use.
 

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Arrogant roadie.....
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Simple green is too caustic for chains, plus it leaves detergent behind. Only use either mineral spirits or a citrus cleaner (which will require 2-3 rinses afterwards, then a complete dry-out before re-lubing).
 

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Simple Green

Dave_Stohler said:
Simple green is too caustic for chains, plus it leaves detergent behind. Only use either mineral spirits or a citrus cleaner (which will require 2-3 rinses afterwards, then a complete dry-out before re-lubing).

Simple Green really is not good for cleaning a chain, it will not go a good job, I've tried it. Better way is to use some type of removable connecting link and take the chain completely off and sit it sit in odorless mineral spirits. Although it is not necessary to take your chain off to clean it. You can clean your chain after each ride with a home brew, putting a drop or two in each link. spin it backwards through the cassette about ten times, then wipe the chain off.
 

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Dinosaur said:
You can clean your chain after each ride with a home brew, putting a drop or two in each link. spin it backwards through the cassette about ten times, then wipe the chain off.
that's all I do...lube with Prolink and wipe. Why bother with taking the chain off and cleaning. I get just as many miles out of it either way.
 

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I've gone to the simple route of WD40 spray down about 200 miles

Or when conditions warrented. After a few of these cleanings, re- lube. Really quiet drivetrain these days, not that it was terrible before, but I know where I stand with cleaning/lubing now where I would lube when I began hearing some noise. Multiple bikes had me loosing track of what needed what and when.
 

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POGUE MAHONE
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I've used Simple green for years on my MTBs use 50 /50 with water and rinse thoroughly before lubing. I use the same 50/50 on my road bike when the chain is new out of the box, I let it soak in there for 20 minutes to strip the packing lube off it, then lube the heck out of it with ProLink and wipe off the excess .Subsequent cleanings on the chain are only done with ProLink.
 

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From the automotive side, Simple Green is thought to be caustic to Aluminum, I know we're talking about ather metals, but just a thought. I use Brake-free-CLP, (Mil Spec). Has nothing to do with Brakes BTW, cleans & leaves a lubricating layer behind after "setting".. Good enough for Automatic weapons in the desert...
 

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No need to clean chain

rugger said:
A question on the fluid to use in my Park chain cleaner.
No need for a chain cleaner if you properly apply the proper lube. Assuming we're talking road riding, use the following technique for successful ProLink or homebrew lube (1 part motor oil to 3-4 parts odorless mineral spirits) application and use:

1 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag.
2 - drip on lube while pedaling (forward is better) so that the chain just starts to drip lube. Aim the lube between the side plates and between the bushings and the side plates.
3 - run through all the gears several times, front and back.
4 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag.
5 - repeat steps 2-4 if the chain was really dirty

Do this AFTER a ride, as you want to allow time for the solvent to evaporate before you head out on the road. If you do this every 300 miles or so (or when you get caught in the rain), you will not get any significant gunky buildup, and you won't have to clean the chain or the cassette. This leaves lube on the inside parts, and wipes it off the outside parts, minimizing dirt pickup.

No lube is "perfect." A brite shiny chain that is clean to the touch but is well lubed and gives long mileage is still not possible. IMO, ProLink is the best compromise.
 
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