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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm at 850 miles on the original chain my ride came with. Using the Park Tool chain checker I just got to the .5 wear mark but not the .75 mark. I wipe down the chain every ride and clean and lube often. I am newb and I do end up changing gears under load (have gotten better at NOT doing this). I will also ride in the rain.

I have the same Shimano chain (CN-HG701-11) to replace it with. Couple questions:

1. Seems like a low amount of miles. I figured a 2k would do me. More like me shifting under load and shifting more than a more seasoned rider?

2. Ok to keep going to the .75 mark or just change the damn thing and move on.

3. Stick with the same chain in future or move to a "better" or more durable?

System is full Ultegra 6800 and cassette looks fine.
 

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chain checkers can give erroneous readings, use a steel ruler instead.

I prefer KMC chains, like the quick connect much better than the Shimano pins.

fwiw, I've gotten as much as 11,000 miles on a chain.
 

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What he said. Those tools are really not very reliable. Check with a ruler. It's highly unlikely that your chain is significantly worn.
 

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Huge in Japan
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Not using a stamped out Go/No go checker between rollers should be a sticky at this point. I'll be the third here to say measure with a scale (ruler). I like Park but lose the chain checker. Really, get rid of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Verified with steel ruler. She is a goner at 900 miles. This was the original chain that came with the bike (new) in late April. According to the stamps on the sideplates it a Shimano Ultegra. Just replaced with same chain.

Clyde, crosschainer, ride in rain sometimes, BUT I do keep it clean and lubed. I was really shocked it's toasted this quick. Cassette seems fine. This all led me to articles on chains. Crosschaining is BAD says Shimano yet SRAM says go for it. Ugh so not straight forward.
 

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'brifter' is f'ing stupid
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All current drivetrains are designed to work fine cross-chained. That's not saying you won't increase wear if you do it, just that it will function. The less you do it the longer your chain will last. The less you weigh the longer your chain will last. The cleaner you keep your drivetrain while being properly lubed, the longer it will last. The less wattage you create, the longer your chain will last. The less you climb the longer your chain will last. The more you spin instead of grind the longer your chain will last.
 

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850 is low but not surprising for an 11 speed shimano chain. It would be hard to believe for 10 speed but not 11.

The length of your chain stays probably impacts how much cross chaining speeds up the wear. Other than the obvious like doing an 8 mile long climb in big/big I wouldn't worry about cross chaining here and there.
 

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Adorable Furry Hombre
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850 is low but not surprising for an 11 speed shimano chain. It would be hard to believe for 10 speed but not 11.

The length of your chain stays probably impacts how much cross chaining speeds up the wear. Other than the obvious like doing an 8 mile long climb in big/big I wouldn't worry about cross chaining here and there.
Yea, also depends on local air quality I suspect. Here in farm country where farm muck galore and what not is in the air, your chain gets more particulate garbage worked into the pivots.

Just changed out an HG701 chain on my Di2 gravel grinder, only got maybe 800 miles out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm riding this new Shimano 11 speed chain now. Hope it gets more than 900 miles.

Questions is same durability expected from KMC or DuraAce Chain? Would there be any difference beside weight between a 105 chain and the Ultegra?
 

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'brifter' is f'ing stupid
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Oddly enough KMC manufactures Shimano Ultegra and Dura Ace chains. Their chains are pretty damn close in all respects.
 

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The idea of replacing a chain every 5-6 weeks is just insane. Not sure how the chain could have failed the rule test if the chain checker only showed .5 wear.....My chains must be made out of kryptonite (10 speed)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The idea of replacing a chain every 5-6 weeks is just insane. Not sure how the chain could have failed the rule test if the chain checker only showed .5 wear.....My chains must be made out of kryptonite (10 speed)
I believe from other post chain checker is garbage. If garbage then the results would be as well. And you are talking 10 speed which from the google machine shows a lot more durable than 11 speed....but that's internet warrior speak.
 

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A chain checker measures roller wear besides chain elongation, so when a chain checker says your chain is worn out, you MAY have thousands more miles in it.
 

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All current drivetrains are designed to work fine cross-chained. That's not saying you won't increase wear if you do it, just that it will function. The less you do it the longer your chain will last. The less you weigh the longer your chain will last. The cleaner you keep your drivetrain while being properly lubed, the longer it will last. The less wattage you create, the longer your chain will last. The less you climb the longer your chain will last. The more you spin instead of grind the longer your chain will last.
^ +1. this.

People that spin, weigh 140# and ride a 10 speed drive train in flat places will experience longer chain life.



Than a 240# clyde that mashes in hilly terrain on an 11 speed rear.

 

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'brifter' is f'ing stupid
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A chain checker measures roller wear besides chain elongation, so when a chain checker says your chain is worn out, you MAY have thousands more miles in it.
Apart from pin, roller, and bushing wear what else is there?
 

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I've always thought that most of the wear occurs in the pin and faux "bushing" area. In the industrial chain business you usually only see external roller wear in large pitch chains (6" to 24" pitches)
 

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'brifter' is f'ing stupid
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I've always thought that most of the wear occurs in the pin and faux "bushing" area. In the industrial chain business you usually only see external roller wear in large pitch chains (6" to 24" pitches)
You're right, most wear is pin and 'bushing', but there is some on the inside of the roller. The pins really get worn on old, dirty chains.
 

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For people who have never seen the inside of a worn chain, here is an example of worn pins that causes pitch elongation.........
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